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Boston’s Southie: From neglected district to new hot spot

01:00 AM EDT on Sunday, October 28, 2007

By BONNIE TSUI

New York Times News Service

The Institute of Contemporary Art has spurred new interest in building on the South Boston Waterfront, including several condos and restaurants.

Have you seen Southie recently? Probably not. The South Boston waterfront has long been a neglected industrial district, pocked with abandoned warehouses and vacant lots. While a few factories were converted into artists’ lofts over the last two decades, it remained a seedy place. Most of us have had no reason to leave the Southeast Expressway at that point.

But with the arrival last December of the Institute of Contemporary Art/Boston (100 Northern Ave., 617-478-3101; www.icaboston.org), a visionary glass box designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro that cantilevers over the waterfront, the neighborhood is finally emerging as a vibrant arts district, with destination restaurants, green parks and condos.

As Boston’s first new art museum in decades, the ICA is already a cultural cornerstone, with rotating exhibitions and a permanent collection with works by Nan Goldin, Cornelia Parker and Julian Opie. Visitors can dine at its Water Cafe (run by Wolfgang Puck Catering), and the adjacent plaza merges with the newly expanded Boston HarborWalk, designed to reconnect the harbor to the rest of the city (though immediately surrounding the museum itself are a number of vast parking lots).

On a recent Tuesday, the esplanade was filled with joggers running past patrons headed to new bakeries and restaurants, including the LTK Bar and Kitchen (225 Northern Ave.; 617-330-7430; www.ltkbarandkitchen.com), a kind of test kitchen for the Legal Sea Food chain, which features tableside iPod stations, live music and a global menu. (Try the Yucatan fish tacos for $10.95.)

Another highlight is the Flour Bakery + Cafe (12 Farnsworth St.; 617-338-4333; www.flourbakery.com), a small sandwich and pastry shop that serves pain aux raisins ($2.50) for breakfast and made-to-order salads for lunch. It opened behind the expanded and reopened Boston Children’s Museum (300 Congress St.; 617-426-8855; www.bostonkids.org), known for its science playgrounds and hands-on activities.

Also driving foot traffic to the area is the 1.6-million-square-foot Boston Convention & Exhibition Center (415 Summer St.; 617-954-2000; www.mccahome.com), designed by Rafael Vinoly. Opened last year, it has become a magnet for developers. Old industrial buildings in the surrounding blocks are being turned into office buildings and condos. There are even plans for a luxury hotel.

To some, the change seems amazing.

“I was born and raised in South Boston, which is a 15-minute walk from the restaurant space we’re about to move into,” said Barbara Lynch, a local restaurateur who is developing a pair of Boston Wharf warehouses into condos, stores and a restaurant. “This place has been desolate for a long time, and a lot of people have been living here without restaurants or facilities.”

“It’s really a new frontier in Boston,” Lynch added. “I haven’t been this excited about an area in a long time.”

If you go

FROM PROVIDENCE: Take I-95 North to the 95/93 split. Take I-93 North toward Boston to Exit 20 "South Boston." Follow signs to I-90 East. Take the first tunnel exit to "South Boston." To get to the Institute of Contemporary Art, continue straight at the top of the ramp, crossing Congress Street and then Seaport Boulevard, onto Northern Avenue. The ICA is immediately on your right.