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European style, American prices in NYC

01:00 AM EDT on Sunday, May 11, 2008

By SETH KUGEL

New York Times News Service

An evening at Provence Restaurant in Greenwich Village can seem like a short visit to France.


NYT / ROBERT CAPLIN

NEW YORK — Sure, you could visit Europe, but it’s just so darn inconvenient. The exchange rate turns you into a pauper, portions are minuscule, people smoke a lot, good bagels are practically nonexistent. Neither Greyhound nor Amtrak stops there. What kind of a tourist attraction is that?

So consider the advantages of a European weekend in New York City. It’s more European than you think: where else could you dine on Bosnian sausage in (the Cevabdzinica) Sarajevo (restaurant), then take a 20-minute train ride to (the) Paris (Theater) for a French film? A MetroCard costs a tiny fraction of what a Eurail pass does, but lets you visit most major tourist destinations in Europe (Okay, places named after them) without leaving the city.

First, a hotel: At the London NYC on West 54th Street, where the formal restaurant is called Gordon Ramsay at the London, the London suites start at $399 a night and the London atrium suite is $3,999 a night. Are those prices London enough for you?

It’s only a short walk from the London to the Paris, where French movies attract a French and Francophile crowd that knows how to throw around a “formidable” or two and is clearly no stranger to the acute accent. If you get bored by the film, slip into the lobby and try to name the French actors (Bardot, Depardieu and the like) pictured there.

From the theater, it’s a pleasant walk along Parque Central to the Shops at Columbus Circle, where you’ll find Face Stockholm, the Swedish cosmetics store, and Davidoff of Geneva, which hawks cigars and even provides a minilounge to smoke them in.

Though it might be tempting to stop by a frankfurter salesman on the street corner, just head down 10th Avenue a few blocks for dinner at Hallo Berlin, an informal beer-guzzling place where the pork chops are tender, the tablecloths are gingham and the beer garden is open. If you don’t like their great beer selection, you can always order from their fun-to-pronounce list of brandies: Kirschwasser, Himbeergeist, Pflumi.

To loosen your tongue after this polysyllabic meal, it’s a quick walk to the Barcelona Bar, an otherwise ordinary watering hole that offers more than 100 specialty shots, something like what you might find in Barcelona itself. If you are willing to sacrifice taste to keep the European theme going, try las Ramblas (grenadine, lime and tequila) or the Mussolini (Southern Comfort and Amaretto). Or just have a Peroni beer.

For a more upscale, romantic alternative, head instead to Provence for the cassoulet of white beans, duck confit, braised lamb and pork sausage.

(Does it get more romantic than pork sausage?)If you go

Cevabdzinica Sarajevo, 37-18 34th Avenue, Astoria, Queens; (718) 752-9528.

London NYC, 151 West 54th St.; (866) 690-2029; www.londonnyc.com.

Paris Theater, 4 West 58th St.; (212) 688-3800; www.theparistheatre.com; tickets $11.

Face Stockholm, 10 Columbus Circle, Ground Floor; (212) 823-9415; www.facestockholm.com.

Davidoff of Geneva, 10 Columbus Circle, Ground Floor; (212) 823-6383; www.davidoff.com.

Hallo Berlin, 624 10th Ave. at 44th Street; (212) 977-1944; www.halloberlinrestaurant.com.

Barcelona Bar, 923 Eighth Ave. near 55th Street; (212) 245-3212; www.barcelonabarnyc.com.

Provence, 38 MacDougal St. at Prince Street; (212) 475-7500; www.provencenyc.com.