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Take a hike, or a bike, or a surfboard, on the Cape

01:00 AM EDT on Sunday, August 5, 2007

BY TIM JONES

Albany Times Union

Provincetown’s bicycle paths carry riders past some of Cape Cod’s most sensational scenery.

P. Aiken P. Aiken

Cape Cod has been a tourist destination since at least 1602, when Bartholomew Gosnold spent a few weeks cavorting there and named the place. Like most other Cape visitors, his crew gained weight.

The Pilgrims, after their stressful journey (although traffic was lighter in those days, they got a late start), hung out in Provincetown for several weeks in November of 1620 before scooting across the bay to work in Plymouth. Henry David Thoreau went to the Cape touristing four times between 1849 and 1857, on foot.

Those early travelers worked hard. They had to. Later visitors came to relax. For many, the only exercise of the day was an energetic application of sunscreen oil. But the world has changed again. Now we know that too much lazing around in the sun like a beached whale can cause a host of health problems. So more and more people are changing their definition of relaxing to include getting some serious exercise and maybe even dropping a few pounds instead of carting a few extra home.

Here, then, is a guide to being active on Cape Cod this summer. Just remember, the more calories you burn, the less impact those fried clams are going to have on your waistline.

Exploring by bike

Cape Cod is heaven for those who prefer to pedal. With gas in the neighborhood of $3 a gallon, biking is not only fun and great exercise, it makes sense. Just park your car, then bike where you want to go.

It’s easier to list the places on the Cape that aren’t good for biking than those that are: in the water or on wet sand, and routes 6 and 28 on busy days. Other than that, every back road, woodland path and bike trail is fair game.

Back-road biking is the best way to see the sights on both the Cape and the Islands. This isn’t high-speed cranking and there aren’t difficult hills, so you don’t need a fancy bike or lots of stamina. It’s perfect for old- timers on old bikes, families with young children on brand-new bikes, and everyone in between.

You can also pedal more than 100 miles of bike or “recreation” paths on Cape Cod. You’ll have to share with walkers, joggers and in-line skaters, even the occasional unicycle — but no cars.

As you cross onto the Cape, try the seven-mile paths on either side of the Cape Cod Canal. At the other end, there’s a paved five-mile loop on the Province Lands in Provincetown. In between are a host of bike paths, including two beauties on the Cape Cod National Seashore at Head of the Meadows in Truro and at the Salt Pond Visitor Center in Eastham.

Most famous, of course, is Cape Cod Rail Trail. Two new bridges over Route 6 have cut off a long road section around Orleans and Rock Harbor, shortening the journey from the former 25 or 26 miles — the maps never agreed — to 22 miles.

If you want to see a different side of Cape biking, try the dune biking around P-town and the off-road mountain biking around the “kettle ponds” within the National Seashore in Wellfleet.

If you have some time and a good map, you can explore on your own. Lacking those, Cape Outback Adventures (800-864-0070; www.capeoutback.com) offers a $45-per-person guided mountain-biking tour of the kettle ponds.

Surfing the Cape

Before you head for the Oceanside beaches of the Outer Cape and sign up for a surfing lesson, be sure you have:

1. A DVD of The Endless Summer. While watching, practice doing push-ups, then jumping quickly to your feet with one foot forward.

2. An iPod loaded with tunes by The Ventures, The Beach Boys and Jan and Dean.

3. A willingness to look like a fool in a wet suit.

4. Lots of sunscreen.

Okay, you really don’t have to bother with a surfing lesson. You can just hit the beach when the waves are up and body surf or ride a boogie board. Lots of fun, but that won’t earn you any water -cooler bragging rights back in the office when vacation is over. Go for the lesson.

On a trip to the Cape last season, I signed up for a surfing lesson with Funseekers (508-349-1429; www.funseekers.org) and found myself with 12 other students, any three of whose combined ages didn’t equal mine. But I was the only one who had purchased “Surfin’ Safari” on vinyl when it was new to the charts, so I definitely had the most fun.

Walk to the coast

A walk on the beach isn’t just for the love-struck. It can be great fun and exercise for anyone. On Cape Cod, the Great Island Trail in Wellfleet is the longest and most remote “official” hiking trail. The views of Cape Cod Bay are spectacular (especially at sunset), and you get completely away from the tourist hustle.

The trail head is at the end of Chequesset Neck Road in Wellfleet. Walking miles in soft sand is a challenge — you’ll feel your glutes and hamstrings by the end.

The basic dry-feet hike is about seven miles, round-trip. Visit Jeremy Point (underwater at high tide, so be prepared to get your feet wet), and loop around the perimeter of Great Island for an honest 10 miles.

A pamphlet available at the trail head gives you a glimpse of the geology and history. Visit Smith’s Tavern; just don’t expect to sip a cold beer while you watch a historical re-enactment: The archaeological site was excavated then refilled.

Great Island offers adventurous visitors expanses of undeveloped shore, empty beaches, sparkling sun on riffled waves and grasses and reeds dancing in the breeze. You can stroll in solitude through quiet pine and oak forests, see hundreds of birds, study the shells and bits of flotsam left behind by the falling tide, follow seabird tracks.

If you go

BIKE PATH RESOURCES

• Bike routes, some with maps: www.cctrails.org/bike.html

• Dennis-Wellfleet: www.mass.gov/dcr/parks/southeast/ccrt.html

• Cape Cod National Seashore: www.nps.gov/caco/activities/biking.html

BICYCLE RENTALS

If you don’t have a bike, or just don’t want to bring your own, you can rent quality hybrids or mountain bikes. Most towns have a bike rental shop or two.

SURF INSTRUCTION

Prices include board and wetsuit. Surfing is extremely weather-dependent; surf reports are updated as conditions change.

• Cape Outback Adventures, Wellfleet, www.capeoutback.com; (800) 864 0070. $40 per person /hour for group lesson; $100 per person/3 hours.

• Funseekers, Wellfleet, http://www.funseekers.org; (508) 349-1429. $50/hour private, $80/hour for two people.

• Little Overhead Surf & Kite Board Shop, Eastham, www

.littleoverhead.com; (508) 240-1455. $70 per person/2-hour

group lesson.

• The Pump House Surf Shop, Orleans, (508) 240-2226; surf report: (508) 240-2229. $60/hour private lesson.

• Sickday Surf Co., Wellfleet. http://www.sickdaysurf.com; (508) 214-4158. $45 per person/hour group lessons.

BEST BEACHES FOR SURFING

• Wellfleet: Cahoon Hollow, White Crest, Marconi

• Eastham: Coast Guard, Nauset Light

• Orleans: Nauset

SURFING LINKS

• Surfari: The Journal of New England Surfing, www.nesurfari .com

• Eastern Surfing Association, www.sne.surfesa.org

• Northeast Surfing, www.northeastsurfing.com

HIKING TIPS

For Great Island Trail: Hike barefoot or in river sandals (sneakers fill with sand). The breeze off the water can be chilly, so bring a windproof jacket. Sunglasses, sunscreen and a hat are essential. This is a wonderful rainy-day diversion if you have a rain suit or don’t mind getting wet. Also pack: Ample water; snacks; a camera for the gorgeous views; binoculars and a bird book. (You might also see seals, whales and other wildlife.)