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Tour Cape Cod by bike and coast by the gas stations

01:00 AM EDT on Sunday, June 22, 2008

By TIM JONES

Albany Times Union

Cyclists prepare to enter a tunnel on the Cape Cod Rail Trail, a 22-mile pedal-hike trail, which is one of the oldest bike paths in the United States.


MCT / Bob Downing

My fiancee, Marilyn, and I love Cape Cod. We make one or more trips every year, sometimes midweek in the summer, more often in the “off” seasons (which is about nine months a year). Mostly to indulge our passion for biking.

A bicycle is by far the best way to see the Cape and the islands, where almost every road eventually ends at salt water and a “no parking” sign, and where every parking space in town is already occupied. On a bike, it doesn’t matter.

On the Cape, you aren’t in a bike race, nor are there any difficult hills, so you don’t need a fancy bike or lots of stamina. It’s perfect for old-timers on old bikes, families with young children on brand new bikes and tourists on rented bikes.

Here are five of our favorite routes. Each could be a day-trip (including the drive from Providence — 1 1/2 to 3 hours depending on exact destination and traffic). Or you could spend the night near your trail and get an early start, as we did.

1. Eastham/Orleans

Lodging: Two family-run gems close to the Rail Trail — Inn at the Oaks (508-255-1886; www.innattheoaks.com; $105-$285) a friendly B&B in North Eastham; The Orleans Waterfront Inn (800-863-3039; www.orleansinn.com; $175-$300), comfortable, convenient refurbished 1870s inn right on the water.

Breakfast: Included at B&Bs, but don’t miss the cranberry muffins and fresh doughnuts from Flemings Donut Shop (508-255-6551) in Eastham.

Lunch: Arnold’s (508-255-2575; www.arnoldsrestaurant.com/) in Eastham, which regularly wins “best fried clams on the Cape” honors.

Dinner: Mahoney’s Atlantic (508-255-5505; www.mahoneysatlantic.com/) in Orleans (try the blackened Tuna) or Orleans Waterfront Inn (great seafood, huge portions).

Biking highlights: Easy access to the 22-mile long Cape Cod Rail Trail, a recently upgraded paved bike path built on an abandoned railway bed ( www.mass.gov/dcr/parks/

southeast/ccrt.htm). You’re sort of in the middle here and can travel in either direction.

Pedal toward Wellfleet to explore the Cape Cod National Seashore ( www.nps.gov/caco/). For side trips, don’t miss the recreation path from the Visitor’s Center to Coast Guard Beach, and the historic site at Marconi Beach. This direction also takes you right past Arnold’s, and Nauset Ice Cream (508-240-1547) and/or Ben & Jerry’s (508-255-2575).

Toward Dennis, you find freshwater ponds in Eastham and Brewster and the hiking and bike trails and swimming beaches in Nickerson State Park. And around Orleans, do a side trip down to Rock Harbor — the road is narrow so you’ll have to ride cautiously, but the views are worth it.

2. Falmouth/Woods Hole

Lodging: Mostly Hall (800-682-0565; www.mostlyhall.com; $125-$199). An 1849 southern plantation home, built by a ship’s captain for his southern bride, now a charming B&B. On the edge of Falmouth Village, one minute from the Shining Seas Bike Path.

The Sea Shell Inn (800-878-8024; www.seashellinn.com; rooms $100-159/night, apartments $800-1700/week). Quiet, comfortable and right across the street from a beautiful beach.

Woods Hole Passage (800-790-8976, www.woodsholepassage.com; $125-$195). Clean, quiet, beautiful gardens, halfway between Woods Hole and Falmouth.

Breakfast: Included at B&Bs listed.

Lunch: Mary Ellen’s Portuguese Bakery (508-540-9696); try the Portuguese omelet.

Dinner: In Falmouth — Liam Maguire’s (508-548-0285). A traditional Irish pub, with Guinness on tap, and delectable specialties such as broiled scrod and Thai pepper shrimp. Irish music as a second dessert.

In Woods Hole, Landfall Restaurant (508-548-1758) built on a pier overlooking the harbor and ferry terminal. (Try the broiled scallops!)

Biking highlights: Falmouth Chamber of Commerce (800-526-8532; www.FalmouthChamber.com) publishes an excellent Falmouth Bikeways Map. You can get almost anywhere in this area on designated bike routes. The Shining Sea Bike Path from Falmouth to Woods Hole is only four miles long, but it’s a gem. In 2009, they’ll open a extension that will bring the total to 10 miles.

Be sure to stop at Spohr Garden (towering rhododendrons, day lilies galore, and, oddly, the anchor from the HMS Bounty). Don’t miss the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute and the fish tanks at the Marine Biological Laboratories.

Off the bike path, visit the Museums on the Green in Falmouth, Nobska Light and the sunset view from Quissett Harbor.

3. Chatham

Lodging: Chatham Motel (800-770-5545; www.chathammotel.com; $135-$195) Clean, quiet, value-priced.

Breakfast: Larry’s PX (508-945-3964), dining with the locals. Don’t miss it — you need a big breakfast to pedal on! Bring cash; they don’t take checks or credit cards.

Lunch: The Corner Store (508-432-1077), eclectic takeout.

Dinner: Vining’s Bistro (508-

945-5033). Hard to find, but worth it!

Biking highlights: Almost all of Chatham is wonderful for biking ( www.town.Chatham.ma.us/Public

Documents/ChathamMA—Bcomm

/Bike). The Old Colony Rail Trail takes you 7.5 miles to connect with the Cape Cod Rail Trail in Harwich. Quiet back roads can take you to lighthouses and the Monomoy Island Ferry (508-945-5450; www.monomoyislandferry.com), which in turns takes you to a quiet walking getaway on the Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge.

4. Sandwich

Lodging: The Belfry Inn (800-844-4542; www.belfryinn.com; $145-$310), a decadently refurbished Catholic church, elegant rooms with stained-glass windows and Jacuzzis.

Breakfast: Included at B&B.

Lunch: Osterville Fish Too (508-362-2295; www.ostervillefish.net/

ostervillefishtoo.htm) at the Barnstable Marina (very fresh fish).

Dinner: The Belfry Inne & Bistro (800-844-4542; http://www.belfryinn.com/). Dining as decadent as the rooms.

Biking highlights: Bike historic Route 6A and admire the architecture (and the shops) along the way. Head west and you’ve got the beautiful recreation paths (seven miles long and no road crossings) on either side of the Cape Cod Canal where you can watch the boat traffic go by.

Or, head east to the long, lovely beach at Sandy Neck and the harbor in Barnstable. And while you are biking around Sandwich, stop at the Heritage Museums & Gardens (www.heritagemuseumsand

gardens.org).

5. Provincetown

Lodging: Crowne Pointe Historic Inn and Spa (877-276-9631; www.crownepointe.com; $110-$465), a beautifully landscaped cluster of classic houses, quiet, private, in the center of P-town.

Breakfast: Included at B&B (don’t miss the cranberry scones).

Lunch: Clem and Ursie’s (508-487-2333) authentic hangout for locals and tourists alike, great seafood and barbecue. Great for dinner, too.

Dinner: Bistro at Crowne Pointe (877-276-9631; www.crownepointe.com/). Outstanding food, excellent wine list.

Biking highlights: You avoid all of P-town’s parking problems when you travel by bike. Slow rolling, day and night for the people-watching along Commerce Street. Get off the bike and climb the Pilgrim Monument, a 252-foot granite tower completed in 1910 — offering spectacular views on a clear day.

Outside of town, explore the dunes and beaches of the Province Lands.

There’s a 5.2-mile bike path plus road riding to the beaches. For a longer ride, head out toward Truro and Wellfleet, exploring the back roads away from busy Route 6.