06/11/2002

JAMESTOWN

Summer is soooooo close we can almost hear the blenders mixing their fruity cocktails and the seafood sizzling on the grill. For a few beautiful months, we'll dine al fresco, meet friends for drinks and wear cute little sundresses -- or big floral Hawaiian shirts -- to bistros.

Yes, the time has come to think beach and waterfront. Over the next month, we'll take a tour of the Ocean State's seaside spots and some of the places to stop and dine in those areas.

Let's start with Jamestown. An island community of 5,000 residents, it has some lovely spots to eat, from the super casual to dining rooms with a view. But it also has an equally charming sense of community among some of the restaurant owners.

Jamestown is more of a day-trip destination spot than a vacation retreat. The local restaurants thrive on business from boaters who come ashore for dinner or from those taking the ferry from Newport.

My Jamestown visit started at The Village Hearth Bakery, where owners Doriana Carella and Andrea Colognese make fabulous bread and pastries, and pizza on Saturday. They were eager to tell me about the fine food prepared by Trattoria Simpatico, a Slice of Heaven and Chopmist Charlie's, all on Narragansett Avenue, and the East Ferry Market and Deli on Conancius Avenue.

A visit at Chopmist, run for six years by owners Trish and Chuck Masso, led to a tour of their soon-to-open second restaurant, Tricia's Tropi-Grille. Unlike Chopmist, which has an all-American seafood and grill menu, the Tropi-Grille will have a Caribbean flair in both food and decor, with some Cuban and Cajun touches, too. There's a tiki bar outside and a second-floor bar with lots of windows that afford water views. There are two other dining rooms, one with a first floor bar. There'll be bands in the tiki bar.

Masso said he and his wife wanted to make a little Italian bistro. As they worked on a menu, they kept coming to the same point: These were dishes made so well at Trattoria Simpatico, a place they dine at least once a week. They just didn't feel right about competing.

So they shifted gears, took a trip to the Florida Keys for research and inspiration, and then unleashed Chopmist chef Randy Savoie to come up with a creative menu of things like grouper and crayfish. He'll be moving to the new place while sous chef Chris Olobri will take over the top job at Chopmist.

The only thing as exciting as opening a new restaurant is the growth of the food community in Jamestown, said Masso.

"Everybody's been a great addition to the town," he said. "There's so much talent in this town that people don't even know about."

Then he sent me off to Trattoria Simpatico where, like Chopmist Charlie's, they serve all winter. Summer's touches are just coming out, said owner Phyllis Bedard. The al fresco bar and dining area features a cabana and trees and heaters for cool nights.

Cliff Dimon is the chef creating house specials like ravioli with duck breast and farfalle chicken, and lots of fresh grilled fish, and a large line of appetizers, from little necks to sesame tuna.

In addition to the outdoor space, there are inside dining rooms, two that are smoke-free.

Bedard too, talked about a close-knit community and how her role sponsoring fundraisers for a variety of causes from Alzheimer's to the Special Olympics is just part of being part of things.

"We treat people here like our guests, not customers," she said.

While the staff wears black bistro clothes, there is no code of dress for diners.

"We are a yachting community, so we cater to casual styles," she said. They also cater to what people like, making substitutions without fanfare.

Trattoria Simpatico offers jazz most evenings of the week.

Slice of Heaven keeps things low key, but that doesn't mean chef/owner Steven Liebauser cooks down. His breakfast menu features such divine creations as Grand Marnier French toast. On Sunday, there is a brunch from 9 to 2.

Lunch offerings include soups and panini sandwiches. There's even one for kids -- panini grilled cheese.

For dinner, Liebhauser, who runs the restaurant with his wife, Maria, does a lot of take-out meals and catering. But for those dining in, he takes out the china and glassware. They serve drinks and have a liquor license. There are tables inside and on an outside deck.

Always, the made-from-scratch pastries, pies, tarts, tortes and cakes are available for dessert.

"Whether people are eating on paper plates or china, it's all about the food," Liebhauser said.

But for some diners, it needs, too, to be all about the view. That's what draws people to the Bay Voyage Inn. Dinner in the dining room begins at 5:30 p.m. daily, offering panoramic views of the Bay. Sunday brunch is from 10 to 2.

Reservations are recommended, because the Bay Voyage does a lot of weddings and rehearsal parties. They try to keep seats free in the dining room and the tavern is also open for dinner.

In the kitchen, chef Brian Ruffner does lots of seafood along with soups, salads and grilled dishes.

The inn was built circa 1850 in Middletown and moved to its Jamestown location overlooking Narragansett Bay in 1889.

For more casual dining down on Concanicus Avenue, there's the East Ferry Market and Deli, which serves loads of specialty sandwiches, fresh salads and baked goods, all day. There are soups and chowders and hot coffee for chilled sailors. You can sit and stay awhile, too.

Back up Narragansett Avenue, the Portuguese American is open to the public for lunch and dinner. While there are a few Portuguese specialties, manager Joe Perry said the restaurant focuses on mostly American dishes at reasonable prices. The club serves drinks and has a casual atmosphere.

The same can be said for the Jamestown Oyster Bar. The restaurant offers weekly specials and house specialties like Jamestown bouillabaisse along with swordfish, tuna and salmon dishes. They also have a children's menu. This is the sister restaurant to the Portsmouth Oyster Bar.

Both the Portuguese American and Oyster Bar have indoor dining.

If none of these places tickles your fancy, take a walk in Jamestown and ask for a suggestion. Anyone would be happy to point you in the right direction.

Chopmist Charlie's, 40 Narragansett Ave. 423-1020.

Trattoria Simpatico, 13 Narragansett Ave., 423-3731.

Tricia's Tropi-Grille, 14 Narragansett Ave., 423-1490.

Slice of Heaven, 32 Narragansett Ave., 423-9866

Bay Voyage Inn, 150 Conanicus Ave., 423-2100.

East Ferry Market and Deli, 47 Conanicus Ave., 423-1592.

Portuguese American, 134 Narragansett Ave., 423-9909.

Jamestown Oyster Bar, 22 Narragansett Ave., 423-3380.

The Village Hearth Bakery, 2 Watson Ave., 423-9282.