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Halloween
Inns where your heart goes bump in the night

10/27/2002

BY GLORIA HAYES KREMER
Special to The Journal

Bah . . . humbug!

Glasses flying through the air, apparitions wafting through a room, missing objects suddenly appearing . . . who really believes these things?

Apparently, a lot of people. Very rational, sensible folk swear they have seen the inexplicable happen. Suddenly, even a doubter thinks -- could it really be a supernatural episode?

On the National Register of Haunted Locations alone, hundreds of sites are listed with their claims of paranormal happenings. Discovering these sites has become almost a cottage industry. Many inns, hotels and bed & breakfast accommodations find people booking reservations a year in advance to stay in "that room" where -- who knows what will happen? And not just at Halloween time.

But Halloween is the day of days, of course, and many tour companies have organized special events around it. Ghostly Tours of Portsmouth, N.H., offers Candlelit Tours through Old York Village. A hooded tour guide escorts visitors through the village and tells authentic ghost stories, witch tales and folklore of the 18th and 19th centuries.

Not far away, Ghostly Tours of York, Maine, also offers Walking Candlelit Tours through Historic York Village. Guests meet at Gravestone Artwear in York (207-363-000 for information on both tours). New Hampshire claims more than 30 haunted sites, among them Frightmare on Elm Street, Haunted Farm Wagon Rides, Haunted Halloween Hike, Haunted Hayride, and others.

Dozens of tales, rumors and gossips are told about colorful New Hampshire residents. One of them, Jonathan Moulton, born in 1787 in Hampton, N.H., was a hero during the French and Indian War and became a well known general. When he died he was buried in his home town. Because of several unexplained incidents, the townspeople asked that his grave be dug up and his casket opened. It was empty!

For many years, Hampton House, as it was known, was lived in by many families who reported often hearing the sound of boots on the stairs and the cries of a woman in an upstairs bedroom. In the early part of the 20th century, Hampton House was moved and, they say, the ghosts exorcised. Today it is a private home.

Some innkeepers don't want stories of "happenings" to get out because, as the proprietor of the Captain Lord Mansion in Kennebunkport, Maine, says, "that can discourage certain people from staying with us." But the owners of the Lodge on Lake Lure, in North Carolina, are delighted with the special reputation of their inn:

Robin Stanier and her husband, Jack, were welcoming their daughter, Betsy, home for Christmas vacation from college, to their newly acquired inn on Lake Lure. "If there's a ghost, I want to see him," said Betsy. Although she didn't see anything the night she slept in Room 4 of the inn, the next morning in the dining room, Betsy was awestruck to see a goblet fly across the room and break.

When the Staniers called to ask the former owner about several episodes, he said, "Oh, that darn ghost. Just yell at him. I used to say, 'Go away . . . bad ghost!' "

In Philadelphia, The Civil War Library and Museum was featured in a television segment of Unsolved Mysteries. In the Lincoln Room on the second floor, several sightings have been reported of soldiers playing cards.

Ghost Tours in New Hope, Pa., (215-957-9988) starts its walk at the Logan Inn. During the Revolutionary War, because of the frozen ground during the cold winters, fallen soldiers had been kept in the basement of the inn until spring. Even now, visitors to the Bucks County town report sightings of soldiers wandering through the inn.

Room 6 of the inn (where the owner's wife died in her bed) is said to retain the scent of her perfume. ("We have never put potpourri in that room," says the maid.) Two shops In town, Mystickal Tymes and Gypsy Heaven, offer "everything positive under the moon." Proprietor Edward Kimble (a good witch, of course) also offers Tarot card readings performed inside the shop by an assistant.

In New Jersey, the Hauntings of Cape May Tour is a walk through the seaside city, including a visit with a ghostly dentist and tales of buried treasure at Lily Lake (609-463-8984). At the Bernardsville Public Library, it is reported, "the ghost is so active, the staff issued it a library card!" In 1989, Phyllis Parker's specter was said to have been seen crying; her husband, Byram, was hanged by General Anthony Wayne.

Areas with a history of violence seem to foster ghostly stories. Harper's Ferry, in the Blue Ridge Mountains of West Virginia, is known as one of the most haunted locales in North America. Tucked into the northeast corner of West Virginia and bordering both Maryland and Virginia, years of tumultuous and bloody tragedies have marked it indelibly with dramatic tales.

In the National Directory of Haunted Places, it is recorded that at the Fire Engine House at Harper's Ferry, the ghost of John Brown is so real, some tourists have asked the apparition to pose for pictures.

At St. Peter's Catholic Church, a priest has been sighted disappearing through a wall -- and on the stone steps of the church, the cries of a child sometimes can be heard.

Harper's Ferry was the perfect hideout for Brown to assemble his men to fight against the Confederate forces. Though Brown succeeded at first, the army of General Robert E. Lee arrived and routed his ragtag army. The fiery abolitionist was captured, tried for treason, convicted and hanged just outside of Charles Town, seven miles away. Many folks say that ghosts from the town's bloody past still walk the city streets, wandering in and out of the old, historic homes.

Harry Champion, owner of the St. James Hotel in Cimarron, New Mexico, recalls that as recently as the second week in August, as he was reaching for a light bulb in the maid's closet, he felt a hand running over his right arm.

"My hair almost stood up," he said, "and the next day, two of my housekeepers, at the same closet, saw the overhead light flashing on and off while they were standing there. It stopped as soon as they left without closing the door."

Champion recalls that he was in the kitchen one day near a bucket full of steak knives. "Suddenly, a knife just came straight out of the bucket and stuck in the floor at my feet."

Several guests have told the owner they felt someone running a hand through their hair during the night.

No other American president has been more closely connected with the supernatural than Abraham Lincoln. At the family home in Springfield, Ill., there have long been rumors of hauntings by the ghosts of the Lincoln family -- including a little boy and an attorney who once visited the site.

The spirit of Mary Lincoln has been sighted by several visitors. Lincoln had told many people of his prophetic dreams and visions and his ties to Spiritualism after the death of his son Willie. After winning the election of 1860, he had his first encounter with a vision of the future -- a vision that predicted he wouldn't live through more than one term in the White House.

A former employee of the National Park Service, Shirlee Laughlin, had a frightening encounter. Laughlin spoke of seeing the former president's rocking chair move by itself and of feeling phantom touches while touring the house.

Salem, Mass. (see this week's Getaway, Page 3), is probably the most popular center of ghostly activities because of its intriguing history. Visitors can tour sites along the witch trails, along the 1.3-mile Heritage Trail, through renowned museums, take a trolley car tour and visit the famous Salem Witch Museum and The Witch Dungeon Museum.

On Essex Street, Laurie Cabot -- dubbed "The Official Witch of Salem" by a former governor of the state -- oversees Crow Haven, her shop filled with crystals, potions, books, etc. Her daughter is now the proprietor, and as Laurie adamantly informs people, "I am a good witch. Many people think witches are evil, but most of us are good witches, providing positive things."

New York boasts 111 listings in an official directory of haunted sites. In New York City, where the natives manage to make a buck even on the ethereal, you can experience an interesting attraction at Madison Scare Garden (212-465-6741).

For those seeking a pleasant out-of-this-world getaway at this time of year, here are several accommodations that might also offer an unexplained occurrence -- at no extra charge. Be sure to check the prices and any special holiday promotions.

Logan Inn, New Hope, Pa.
Built in 1722 and originally known as the Ferry Tavern, "The Logan" as it is fondly called, is one of the five oldest inns in the country. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it retains an Old World feeling despite such modern amenities as a choice of dining al fresco in the tented patio that overlooks the Main Street or in a glass-enclosed dining room with an imposing stained glass wall.

Employees and guests report visions of what appears to be the owner's wife, who died in Room 6. "Several guests have told me they saw a halo reflection in the mirror in Room 6 -- and others told me they felt a tickle on their leg while eating in the main dining room," reports part-time manager Rhonda Sheppleman.

Rates are from $95 to $135 per night, continental breakfast included. For information: (215) 862-2300.

Henry Ludlam Inn, Dennisville, N.J.
This cozy Cape May County inn, built in 1740, was originally a three-story home for the family of Henry Ludlam -- who was, rumor has it, a pirate. Pat and Chuck DeArros, who bought it in 1996, have heard stories about mysterious sounds and happenings. One guest reportedly awoke to music, which suddenly was replaced by the sound of snare drums and a roll call. Then this sound abruptly ended and a woman's voice was heard singing opera.

Former owners Ann and Marty Thurlow said they once awoke to the sound of smashing glass; a tour of the house revealed nothing broken. The Thurlows also witnessed lights going on and off, a television that turned itself on, and knocking sounds at the front door when no one was there.

Detecting the smell of bacon or ham cooking one afternoon, they entered the kitchen from three separate parts of the house and found no one cooking anything.

The inn has pleasant guest rooms, some with working fireplaces; all have antique feather beds and handmade quilts. Rates are $85-$125, including full breakfast and a welcoming bottle of wine. For information: (609) 861-5847.

Lodge on Lake Lure, North Carolina
Overlooking a placid lake, just 30 miles southeast of Asheville, this comfortable lodge was built in memory of a highway patrolman, George Penn, who lost his life while pursuing two escaped convicts nearby. Years later, when the property became a bed and breakfast inn, strange rumors began circulating. The Staniers not only had seen their own strange occurrences, but guests reported seeing a man pacing the floor of Room 4, although the door was closed and locked.

Rates are $99-$139 weekdays, $109-$149 weekends, including breakfast, boat rides and evening get-togethers. For information: (800) 733-2785.

Lauretum Inn Bed & Breakfast, Chestertown, Maryland
Though Peg and Bill Sites have run this inn for only five years, "Everyone we talk to in town says, 'Oh, you two live in the haunted house!' " The Sites have seen lights go on and off, heard mysterious sounds, found doors that have mysteriously opened or closed and basically felt some kind of presence.

Peg remembers that her son was a skeptic -- until one night when he was alone in the house. At about 2 a.m. he was in his bedroom when suddenly he heard ballroom music. He checked every room and found every radio turned off. Nine months later, his father was studying for a test in the same room and he, too, heard ballroom music. Both father and son are now convinced "something's going on here."

Even the family pet seems to be tuned in to something. When the dog is lying in front of the fireplace or the television set, she will suddenly stand, listen and look around. She acts as if there's some presence in the room.

The 1881 inn has two suites, one of the which was formerly a school room -- where the majority of strange occurrences seem to take place.

Rates from Sunday through Thursday are $50-$90, weekends $60-$100 and include breakfast. For information: (800) 742-3236.

St. James Hotel, Cimarron, New Mexico
This northern New Mexico hostelry, built as a saloon in 1873, certainly is justified in calling itself an "historic haunted hotel." Some 28 people have died here -- 26 in gunfights and two in stabbings. Among the celebrity guests have been Billy the Kid, Buffalo Bill Cody, Wyatt Earp, Annie Oakley and Jesse James.

In Room 18, a tiny room no longer used, the spirit of T. James Wright haunts the premises. Wright won the hotel in a poker game and was then killed trying to collect his prize. A happier ghost inhabits Room 17, known as Mary's Room.

Mary was the first wife of Henry Lambert, the saloon's first owner, who had been the personal chef to Union General Ulysses Grant and President Abraham Lincoln. She died in 1881, but the scent of her old-fashioned perfume pervades the air -- constantly. Owner Harry Champion recalls a guest telling him he left his luggage in the room one night upon arrival -- and the next morning, the bag was unpacked.

Rates in the hotel's historic area are $90-$120; annex rooms are $50-$70. For information: (800) 748-2694.

Menger Hotel, San Antonio, Texas
Built in 1859, this Victorian-style hotel has expanded from a 50-room inn to a 350-room hotel, still hosting several strange historical legends. Confederate General Robert E. Lee rode his horse into the lobby and Teddy Roosevelt recruited his Rough Riders in the bar which still stands today.

One guest committed suicide on the fourth floor. The bathtub in that room mysteriously empties and fills, the television often loses its picture and the lights flicker on and off. Maids tell of a mysterious lady dressed in blue -- with a blank expression -- who sits in a chair by an upstairs window. Quite pleasant images from the past are in several of the authentically restored guest rooms. Rates are $99-$142. For information: (800) 345-9285.

The Myrtles Plantation, St. Francisville, La.
Welcome to what is known as "the most haunted house in America." This 1795 plantation is now a 10-room bed and breakfast which has seen 10 violent deaths -- and just as many ghosts roaming through its corridors, guests report.

One apparition is said to be a plantation owner who was shot in the gaming room and staggered up the grand stairway. He struggled to the 17th step before he died. Today, guests say they have heard 17 footfalls in the middle of the night coming from the direction of the staircase. Before the plantation days, the land was an ancient burial ground belonging to the Tunica Indians. An Indian woman is said to be seen sitting on an island in the estate's pond from time to time.

Fortunately, there are good ghosts here -- one who reportedly put out a fire while another pushed a burglar down a flight of stairs.

Rates are $95-$195. For information: (504) 635-6277.

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