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Gardening

You’ll need brains and brawn to
build your own Stone Wall

Henry Homeyer

Gardeners have gone gaga over stonework in the garden. But having someone build you a stone wall is an investment that may preclude sending your child to college. However, if you are fit and ambitious you could build a stone wall yourself, and this is a good time to do some dreaming, planning and research.
On a cold day that hinted of snow, Travis Callahan of Fielder & Callahan LLC of Claremont, N.H., took me around to see some of the dry stone walls he and Dave Fielder have built. Both are master dry stone wall builders certified by the Scottish Dry Stone Walling Association.
Dry stone walls are built using no mortar, the type recommended for gardens. The earth moves each winter and spring, so mortar cracks. Travis figures their dry stone walls will last 100 years or more without much repair.
He explained that there are several types of good walls, but all rely on the same basic principles.
  • Create a good base, free of organic matter or soil that might compress.
  • Dig out the topsoil -a foot or so- and replace with crushed stone (but never round pebbles), or just start building on subsoil.
  • Select larger stones for the foundation. A stone that is 3 feet long and 2 feet wide should run from front to back, so that the 2-foot face is looking out.
  • Make sure the top of any flat stone is level. A stone that tilts will tend to let the next course slide down.
  • Use stakes and strings to keep the wall straight. Two-sided walls and retaining walls should slant slightly inward (or backward). That way gravity helps keep the wall together. Walls can have a camber (tip) ranging from 1 in 6 to 1 in 12. Gritty things like granite grab well and don’t need as much camber as walls using smooth or round stones.
  • For the second course of stones, be sure that each space between the foundation stones is bridged with a stone. A “running joint” -- one that is repeated in two courses -- is a prescription for trouble.
  • Each stone, once in place, must not wiggle when you put pressure on it. Flat shim stones should be slipped under stones as needed.
  • A two-sided wall is built from both sides at once. The center is filled with “hearting.” This means adding small stones and rubble, filling up the center space with junk you would have to get rid of otherwise.
  • The third course of stones should include a “through stone” every 3 feet. Through stones are long enough to pass all the way through the wall, or at least to reach the middle of the wall.
  • The fourth course repeats the second.
  • The top of the wall can be finished in several ways. Cap stones, which are large and flat, are ideal. They shed water and look nice. They are the most common tops for both two-sided walls and retaining walls.

Travis Callahan took me to a free standing wall he and David Fielder built in Meriden, N.H. The wall is unusual: it is “turf coped.” This means that instead of capping the wall with stone, it is covered with turf. They cut turf from the field nearby, and placed two layers on top of the wall. The first layer, destined to provide soil and retain water, they placed upside down. The second layer went right side up.
The wall in Meriden was built in full sun in a dry year, and the grasses all died. But Mother Nature stepped in, and now, two years later, there are native grasses and flowers such as wild black-eyed Susans growing on top of the wall. Of course, a serious gardener could also create a fine rock garden there.
Many of the walls lining roads and fields were built in the 19th century to define property lines, keep in animals, or to make plowing easier. Generally, farmers didn’t bother making fancy two sided walls, but just stacked stones atop each other, creating “single stone” walls. Travis brought me to one they had recently rebuilt in Cornish, N.H.
A single stone wall is just that. Each stone shows through on both sides of the wall. This also means there are places where you can see though the wall. But it is just as important to bridge all joints, and to shim stones to keep them from wiggling.
To see more stonewalls, go to Travis and David’s Web site, www.drystonewalls.com. A good reference book is by Vermonter Gordon Hayward’s Stone in the Garden: Inspiring designs and Practical Projects.
Years ago when I was young(er) and (more) foolish, I built an 80-foot retaining wall to create a terrace for fruit trees. I asked a neighbor what to do, but didn’t get all the information I needed. Now the wall I built is in bad shape, and this winter I’m thinking I should rebuild it in the spring. Of course, it’s easier to dream than build. At least now I know what to do.


Henry Homeyer is the author of

Notes from the Garden: Reflections and Observations of an Organic Gardener.

Write him at P.O. Box 364, Cornish Flat, N.H. 03746;

send e-mail to gardening.guy@valley.net;

his Web site is www.gardening-guy.com.

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