Q. My 2003 Kia Spectra will not start sometimes in park. When this happens if I force the shifter into neutral I can get the car to start. The repair shop replaced the range switch for $140 and it was okay for a week. Now the car is acting up again. A new mechanic checked the car and couldn’t find anything wrong; now what?

A. I would have the garage that did the initial repair look at the neutral safety switch. The neutral safety switch will not allow the car to start unless the car is in park or neutral. This switch is located on top of the transmission.

High-idle issue

Q. I just bought a used Toyota Tacoma. When it first starts it revs up to 1800 rpm, stays there for 30 seconds, then goes to 1500 rpm for another 15 seconds. The thing is practically un-drivable and probably shouldn’t have been sold in this condition. Toyota says “they all do it.” Is this a well-known problem?

A. I have driven several models of the Toyota pick-ups and don’t remember the high-idle issue you are experiencing with your vehicle. Inconsistent idle can be caused by any number of reasons. The technician should take a look at the air intake system, air conditioning signal, electronic control module and possible vacuum leaks.

Information source

Q. When buying a new car, where can I find out important information such as how much oil does the engine hold, if it has a timing belt, when that belt needs changing and other important information? Over the years I have found both the dealer and the owner’s manuals to be wrong.

A. The owner’s manual is usually a good place to start, but like you, I have seen wrong information (misprints). I use AllData as a technical database. What I like about this system as opposed to print material, is it is Internet based and if there is wrong information it can be corrected almost immediately. AllData ( www.alldata.com) does have a consumer version that can be purchased for one make of car and is quite inexpensive.

BMW secret

Q. I had a diagnostic test done on my 1999 BMW 528I and a 153 code came up pertaining to the transmission (when accelerating I feel a little jerking sensation). The shop that scanned the car said I shouldn’t be concerned. There is approximately 118,000 miles on my car and I plan to keep it for a while if it doesn’t have any major problems.

A. Transmission diagnostic trouble codes can only be extracted, diagnosed and cleared by BMW specific equipment. It is my understanding that BMW doesn’t release this diagnostic information to anyone other than a BMW dealer. In this case it would be wise to return to a BMW dealer to get a complete check-up. Over time, hopefully, vehicle manufacturers will release all diagnostic information to independent shops as well as the consumers who own the vehicle.

Stiff steering

Q. I have a 1993 Toyota Camry on which the power steering is very stiff. This was my mother’s car and it spent its life in Florida. The problem came up within the past couple of months. It seems to be worse when the weather cools down below 45 degrees and since the warmer weather has been much better. The other issue is the steering wheel does not return when I turn a corner. Does the car need a new steering gear system?

A. The steering wheel not returning may be the clue. It is possible that one of the strut bearings has started to seize up and that is what is causing the hard steering and poor wheel return. The hard steering could be a result of a worn power steering pump or incorrect power steering fluid. With the car’s front wheels off the ground it should be easy enough to check for a binding strut bearing.

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