projoCars
Car Doctor: Four new tires for one little nail?
01:00 AM EDT on Saturday, April 28, 2007
Q. I have a 1997 Toyota RAV4 -4 wheel drive. One rear tire has a nail almost in the sidewall. The tire dealer says it’s not repairable and recommends replacing it. All four of the tires were replaced about two years ago. I have a road hazard policy so I’ll pay for unused tread. The question is, can I replace just one tire on a four wheel drive vehicle? Approximately half the tread is worn. Will this affect the drive train (differential or transfer case)? I can’t afford four new tires just to replace one irreparable tire. Should I get a loan and be safe or take a chance with wear and tear to the vehicle?
—Larry, West Warwick
A. In the last few years many vehicle manufacturers that offer all-wheel-drive recommend replacing all four tires if one tire is unserviceable. Although Toyota doesn’t seem to have a specific recommendation, here is what Volvo recommends for their all-wheel-drive vehicles. “When tire replacement is necessary, Volvo strongly recommends replacing all four tires at the same time with identical tires. Failure to do so can result in damage to the transmission and all wheel drive system. If only one or two tires are replaced, the new tire(s) must be identical to the tires with which the car was built, and must be mounted on the front axle only. Failure to do this may damage the transmission and all-wheel-drive system.” Based on this information I would replace two tires and put them on the front of your RAV4.
Q. My 1994 Saturn SW1 is having instrument cluster issues. On the left hand side the cluster does not light up with the headlights on at night, though the high beam indicator light does work. The left hand turn signal light on the cluster does not light up. Also, the speedometer works, but the needle does not ride up when the engine is started and seems to be 5-10 mph low while driving. This is a rebuilt cluster that was replaced because of a failed odometer, which works with the new cluster. The speedometer seemed to have the same problem with either cluster. Is there more than one source for these symptoms? What should I be looking for?
—Bill
A. The lights could be as simple as a bulb or wiring problem. The speedometer issue may be a failed rebuilt speedometer. One additional item to look for: the speedometer runs through the seat belt module, which is near the cup older. Too many coffee and soda spills could be part of the problem.
Q. Lately my 2005 Chevy Impala makes a little noise when I start it. It sounds like valve lifters in a 30-year-old car. The noise does go away after a couple of minutes. I use the recommended 5w-30 oil. Is this normal or am I hurting the engine?
A. Many engines today make a bit of noise on startup. The noise may be a result of “piston slap” As the engine warms up the pistons expand and the noise quiets. Since I can’t hear the noise your best bet would be to leave the car overnight at the dealer so they can hear and document the noise.
What killed the motor?
Q.I have a 2001 Acura MDX with 130,000 miles on it. It uses about a quart of oil every 1,500 to 2000 miles. About a month ago, I hit a deer while traveling around 60 mph. I hit the brakes but it was an instant before the deer struck the front center of my car. The front bumper and radiator were crushed. I moved the car about two miles so that I could use my cell phone to call for a wrecker. The car was steaming a little and the temperature on my gauge rose to about 3/4 on the gauge very briefly. After having the car repaired, I moved the car about 40 miles and the oil light started flickering. The engine temperature remained in its normal 2/5 position on the gauge. After another 3 to 5 miles, I reached my destination and called a wrecker and towed it to the Acura dealership in town. The Acura dealership found that my main engine bearing had failed. Of course, the insurance company does not want to pay for the engine problem because they do not think my accident is related to the problem. After tearing down the engine, the dealership is backtracking on me. There was sludge in the engine and they now think that the sludge caused my problem. In my view, the dealership is contradicting itself. Now the view is that sludge clogged up my oil filter and the engine overheated causing the bearing to fail. This view contradicts their knowledge that the engine never got hot and the oil light only flickered. The head service rep originally told me that I could have driven the car for a good while with the oil light on before it caused any problems. Is he contradicting himself or, am I misunderstanding?
A. The oil light indicates a lack of oil pressure, and driving with the light on can certainly cause engine damage. I think in this case the key to this question is the sludge in the engine. If there is in fact an excessive amount of sludge this is a result of lack of maintenance, not driving a few miles with the oil light flickering or a slight leak in the radiator. Unless you can produce receipts showing you maintained your vehicle in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations, I believe you will be responsible for the engine repair.
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