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Editorial: Newport: Cute and tacky

01:00 AM EST on Friday, December 5, 2008

It’s an honor that Newport made it onto National Geographic Traveler’s list of the top 109 historic places to visit in the world. At the same time, we’re surprised that the City by the Sea ranked 78, behind such far less historically spectacular American cities as Red Wing, Minn. (23) and Lowell, Mass. (70).

Brows lifted at some of the magazine’s criticisms of Newport. The judges accused Newport’s downtown of being “a disappointing hodgepodge” and complained of “too much shopping.” Huh? Newport is a commercial port. For more than 300 years, it’s been about shipping, shopping and, truth be told, not infrequently about drinking (or at least carousing).

The problem with Newport is that there isn’t enough shopping, or not enough good shopping. It still has some wonderfully unusual antiques and clothing stores. But too many of Thames Street’s beautiful storefronts are occupied by sellers of T-shirts and made-in-China nautical knickknacks.

We will mostly hold our tongues on some of the mall-brand stores that increasingly populate upper Thames. They are identical to their chain-mates in Des Moines or Sacramento, but at least they offer a relatively sophisticated shopping experience.

Now what does National Geographic Traveler mean by “hodgepodge”? If it’s talking about the 18th and 19th century downtown melting into the grim barricade of newer hotels and time-shares with water views, we understand. The loss of so much of Newport’s working and drinking waterfront is sad but can be overcome over time.

The magazine refers to “tacky sprawl outside of central area.” Could it be referring to the commercial mess on Route 114 in Middletown, which, we’ll concede, is tacky and sprawling? Middletown’s sprawl isn’t Newport’s fault, but it is Newport’s problem in that it makes getting into the splendid urban center an unpleasant experience. Route 114 is a visual catastrophe. (See the editorial “Crashing into Newport,” Nov. 19.)

Newport’s hotels aren’t too big, as the magazine states. The problem is that too many of them are too ugly. At least, the modern ones are. The Hotel Viking, which opened in 1926, is charming, as are any number of historic bed and breakfasts.

In terms of managing traffic flow, tourism, parking and aesthetics, Newport does have something to learn from Charleston, S.C., which ranked 15th on the list. But there’s just so much one can do to ease congestion in a warren of old narrow streets on a hot summer night.

Something about Newport must have rubbed some judges at National Geographic Traveler the wrong way. Was it a speeding ticket on the Jamestown side of the Newport Bridge? Jamestown’s speed trap is also not Newport’s fault. Perhaps the ugly corners of Newport are so jarring because the lovely parts are so wonderful.

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