Winecap mushrooms are prepared in the kitchen at the New Rivers Restaurant, in Providence. The mushrooms have a nutty flavor, much like a roasted almond.

The Providence Journal / Glenn Osmundson

PROVIDENCE — Executive chef Beau Vestal of New Rivers Restaurant was startled when a forager from Connecticut showed up recently with a boxful of some of the largest wild mushrooms he had ever seen.

“There were some that measured 12 inches across the cap,” he marveled.

One of them indeed was so large that it resembled a small footstool, or perhaps a comical forest prop from a 1940s Disney cartoon.

These were winecap mushrooms — scientific name Stropharia rugosoannulata — which grow from spring to fall across the United States.

As their common name suggests, the caps of these mushrooms can range from brick-red to burgundy, and, yes, they’re a choice edible.

The mushrooms will often surprise gardeners because they will pop up in spots that have been mulched with wood chips. They also are found in humus-rich soils and will sprout from straw. Rare among wild mushrooms, they are easy to cultivate: Simply drop pieces of the cap into mulch.

Identifying them is simpler than most, especially the mature specimens, because there simply are no other cap-and-stem mushrooms, with gills, growing on the ground in this area, that get that huge. The younger specimens can be trickier, however, and collectors should take care not to confuse them with mushrooms of the Agaricus family, which grow in similar habitat. Those not familiar with wild mushroom identification should enjoy them only with a digital camera.

Although confronted with a food item he had never seen before, Vestal rose to the challenge.

“I took the gills off the bottom and sliced them into long strips and cooked them in a very hot pan with olive oil and butter,” he related.

“When they were nicely browned, I tossed in fresh garlic, thyme, sliced shallots, and fennel seed. When the mushrooms began to lose their water, I continued to cook them until all the moisture evaporated and then added a splash of 10-year-old Madeira and sautéed all until the Madeira was almost cooked out and then finished with a knob more of butter and a generous pinch of our chopped herb mix [parsley, tarragon, thyme, chives].

“We were serving the warm mushrooms on crispy buttered toasts spread with goat cheese. The dish was also garnished with red sorrel, bronze fennel, and shaved radishes to provide crunch and tang. My thoughts on the flavor of the mushrooms? Surprisingly nutty [like a roasted almond]; great meaty flavor with an herby quality. They’re similar to a portabella, with more finesse. I also was able to use the large stems after peeling away the fibrous outer layers. Overall, a wonderful mushroom and I wish we had more.”

tmorgan@projo.com