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What’s old is new again: A hippie resurrection

07/08/2009 01:00 AM EDT

By Wendy Donahue

Chicago Tribune

The hippie look is not just for women. Says Matt Gearhart, 23, a sales associate at Akira in Chicago: “There are a lot of vests, blazers, vintage cowboy boots” for men, including the ones he’s wearing which belonged to his dad.


MCT / Wendy Donahue

CHICAGO — Hard-core thrifter Erin Rembert, 23, used to have no problem finding old maxi-dresses to transform into mini-dresses or tops like the one she was wearing recently at the vintage shop where she works in Chicago.

“Now everything is totally picked over,” Rembert said.

And the old maxi-dresses that she does find? No updating required.

“The hippie look is having an aesthetic revival,” she said.

As even the most shameless shopaholics have watched the sun set on the era of acquisitiveness, a new age of Aquarius is dawning. Hippie looks carry at least an air of thrift — even if that maxi-dress comes from a mainstream store such as Forever 21 or Target.

“People are reworking materialism,” Rembert said.

Hippie looks always rally in the sweaty months. But with Hair returning to Broadway, the Grateful Dead resurfacing, Phish reuniting and Woodstock’s 40th anniversary approaching, the resurrection is more robust than usual, with crochet bags and trims, peasant tops, vests, ethnic embroideries and prints, fringe, tie-dye fabrics, denim cutoffs, peace-sign jewelry, braids, beads and boots.

The prevailing vibe this time around: Tune in, try on — but turn away from a head-to-toe hippie homage.

A modern approach, says Erica Strama, a fashion expert for the national shopping center chain Macerich, is to pair one or two ’60s-inspired pieces, such as a graphic tank layered under a crochet vest, and keep the rest of one’s attire modern, simple and unsentimental.

“I love colorful peasant tops paired with slim skirts and strappy shoes,” she said.

Macy’s windows have been radiating the Summer of Love theme, the origins of which can be traced in part to St. Tropez, where gladiator sandals and long dresses began sweeping the streets a few seasons ago.

“I go to St. Tropez every year to look at spring/summer trends because they are still very advanced,” said Nicole Fischelis, group vice president/fashion director for Macy’s stores. “I noticed the whole attitude and mood of long dresses, off-the-shoulder blouses ... and boots for summer.”

Now, hippie iconography is turning up in not just women’s fashion but beauty and home goods, as well as men’s fashion. That captain of the conspicuously consumptive age, former Gucci fashion designer Tom Ford, has introduced a White Patchouli fragrance for women. Home guru Jonathan Adler created a Hashish candle. Tie-dye fabrics flutter through Crate & Barrel’s CB2 stores. Hickey Freeman’s customized men’s polo shirts include a peace-sign logo option.

It all confirms that the neo-hippies don’t shun commerce and the establishment the way their forebears did.

With good reason, says Julia Chaplin, who wrote the new hippie-influenced book Gypset Style (Assouline, $45).

“It’s not the same as it was in the ’60s and ’70s,” Chaplin said. “We’re in a moment in the culture with the economy and environment that we kind of need to work together.”

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