Lifebeat
When seals are sunning, Rome Point’s a sight to see
12/18/2008 01:00 AM EST

NORTH KINGSTOWN — A walk through the John H. Chafee Nature Preserve can be quick and easy. You’re likely to linger here, however, absorbing a sweeping view of Narragansett Bay’s West Passage from a beach you may have to yourself, all spring, summer, and fall.
The only time the place gets crowded is in the dead of winter when Rome Point comes alive with harbor seals. During the winter months, the area is a “haul-out” for seals that sun themselves. Harassing marine mammals is a federal offense: Stay away from the animals, and never approach a seal that appears to be injured or sick.
Last summer, a group of walkers met in the preserve’s parking lot on Boston Neck Road (Route 1A) for a hike with local historian Tim Cranston. Sponsored by Friends of The Library in North Kingstown, the hike through history began 3,000 years ago when the Narragansett people shared the land there to grow crops and to hunt and fish. During the middle of the 17th century, when the first Europeans arrived, about 6,000 Narragansett people lived along the western shore of the Bay, said Cranston.
They had a sophisticated culture with values different from the Europeans’, Cranston said. The Europeans believed in land ownership. The Narragansett people believed that they were part of the land; no one owned it.
In 1659, when Atherton & Co., a Boston syndicate of businessmen, persuaded Narragansett leaders to sign an agreement, the Indians may have believed they were agreeing to a treaty. The Boston syndicate was buying the land that became known as Boston Neck.
Over the next 342 years, the land went through several owners including Capt. Edward Hutchinson, a son of Anne Hutchinson, a key figure in the establishment of religious freedom in the colonies.
Debt collector George Rome was another owner. The point of land there is named after him. Ezekiel Gardner bought the land at auction in 1776 and added it to his huge dairy farm that sold cheese in Europe and the Caribbean, said Cranston. In the early 20th century, Dr. John Menzies operated a small farm and a community for healthy living. The Seaview Railroad ran through the land then, and its rail bed crosses the main trail, beneath the power lines, on the way to the beach.
On April 2, 2001, after abandoning plans to build a nuclear power plant on the site, Narragansett Electric, part of the National Grid company, donated more than 200 acres to the state. Now, there is a large parking lot on Route 1A just north of the intersection with Route 138. Signs at the entrance urge visitors to enjoy the area quietly, and to keep dogs on a short leash.
The walk to the beach is mostly downhill. At the bottom is a long, scenic beach covered by layers of sea shells. Most of them are from what Rhode Islanders call “deckers” (pronounced deck-ez). They are common slipper shells. In the summer, rugged and fragrant beach roses blossom along the shore.
Facing the Bay, look right to see the Jamestown-Verrazano Bridge. Look left to see Fox Island, off Rome Point. Directly ahead, across the water is Conanicut Island — Jamestown.
Walk north along the beach to the point. Turn left at the point to find a path along Bissel Cove, another extraordinary scenic spot, with the historic Hamilton Mill across the water. The cove is popular among kayak paddlers and fishers. It’s also a great spot for snorkeling during the summer.
Stroll the shady path to the south, turning left at a slight fork to return to the main trail. Notice wildflowers and berries along the way. Turning right at the main trail will get you back to the parking lot on Route 1A.
It may be a quick walk, but the John H. Chafee Nature Preserve is a great place to spend the day.
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