These snowdrops blooms are delicate and dramatic.

Bulbs are nature’s answer to all those impatient gardeners trying to get a running start on spring. Plant them now, as temperatures cool but before the ground freezes hard, and the bulbs will provide a cheerful, colorful show before the last snows of winter melt away.

You’re in for a treat if you’re new to bulb gardening. Bloom colors are dazzling and their year-to-year staying power provides great value.

You can be forgiven if you’re unaware of a few bulb basics — starting with which end should go up when dropping them into the ground. For the record, it’s the pointed end. The side showing the stringy evidence of roots should face bottom. But not to worry. Bulbs are pretty forgiving.

“If you aren’t sure, plant it sideways. It should right itself,” said Barbara Pierson, nursery manager at White Flower Farm in Litchfield, Conn.

Here are a few more bulb culture essentials:

•Plant bulbs deep and in well-drained soils having a neutral pH. “Big bulbs, including daffodils, tulips and hyacinths, get planted 8 inches deep,” said Sally Ferguson, a spokeswoman for the Netherlands Flower Bulb Information Center. “Small bulbs, such as grape hyacinths, crocus and others are planted 5 inches deep.”

•Water newly planted bulbs frequently to help get their roots established.

•Perennials need to be fed. Fertilize bulbs once in the fall and again in the spring with an organic mixture of 9-9-6, the percentage, by weight, of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. Spread that slow-release organic blend over the ground’s surface rather than into the holes, which may cause root burn.

•Deadhead the plants after they’ve finished blooming to prevent wasted seedpod growth and to allow leaves and stems to dry before tidying up.

See to that, and you’ll discover that bulbs are about as easy as it gets in gardening.

“Flower bulbs are like the perfect suitcase,” said Jo-Anne van den Berg-Ohms, president of Van Engelen Inc. in Bantam, Conn. “Lay them in the ground and over winter, they’ll develop a good root system. In spring, the miracle occurs when they come up and bloom.

“For the first year, at least, a bulb has everything inside it that it needs to grow, and it blooms beautifully for you.”

Most flowering bulbs are described as perennials, but some are more perennial than others — especially when given a proper start and a little attention during each growing season. To ensure many happy returns, choose bulbs labeled “Good for Perennializing” or “Good for Naturalizing.”

“Perennial is a relative term,” said Scott Kunst, owner and head gardener at Old House Gardens in Ann Arbor, Mich. “Peonies will live a century or more, whereas other common perennials won’t last a decade.

“All tulips are perennial, but none will last for long if they get too much moisture during their summer dormancy,” he said. “The key is to give them well-drained [sandy] soil and try to avoid watering them in the summer. Once fall gets under way, they’ll start forming new roots so they’ll need water then, but through the summer they’d rather be bone dry, as in their native lands.”

Spring flowering bulbs like their time in the sun, but many will do well in partial shade or when planted randomly in “drifts” beneath trees in orchards or woodlots.

“Early blooming bulbs such as crocus and snowdrops can thrive under deciduous trees if they receive three to four hours of sun after the trees leaf out,” said Pierson. “Late blooming tulips and daffodils will not thrive under trees. Most bulbs appreciate six hours of sun per day, but can tolerate four hours.”

Bulbs do not survive extended periods out of the ground, do not perform well when kept outside in containers and won’t long endure if their blooms are cut.

“Small bulbs such as snowdrops and fleshy bulbs like lilies are most vulnerable in storage, so they are best planted as soon as possible,” Kunst said. “Daffodils, tulips and other bulbs with dried skins or tunics can be stored in open paper bags [for circulation] in a relatively cool, dry place for a few weeks.”

Bulbs can weather temperature changes better when they’re in the ground than when they’re in pots, van den Berg-Ohms said. “The ground cools slowly and warms slowly. Temperatures tell bulbs what to do — root, grow shoots, flower or rest.

“But temperatures spike more readily for plants grown in containers. That confuses the bulbs, and they don’t know what to do.”

It’s great to be able to bring a bouquet of tulips or daffodils into the house in early spring but that can shorten the life of the plants in your outdoor beds. The flowers need to die back naturally so they can be nourished for many years of growth.

“If you cut back a tulip, I can almost guarantee they won’t grow back another year. That’s why I recommend a separate cutting garden,” van den Berg-Ohms said.

Spring blooming bulbs are stunners in mass plantings — carpets of color after the dull, drab months of winter. But it would be wise to stretch such a large project over several seasons to make things easier on your bank account and your back.

Buying bulbs in quantity, however, will mean a sizable price break along with the opportunity to share the savings with friends.

“The process of planting bulbs in the fall is a cozy nesting experience,” van den Berg-Ohms said. “It’s sweater weather, a good time to get children involved — letting them know what goes on with the earth.

“Buttoning up your garden before winter sets in also is a good investment in the future of your home. No matter what winter gives us, your bulbs are ready to thrive in spring and give you a sense of renewed beauty and hope.”

On the Net:

For more about planting fall bulbs, look to this Netherlands Flower Bulb Information Center Web site: www.bulb.com. Click on “public,” go to “Learn about planting fall bulbs.”Tulips aren’t the only fall bulbs

If it’s flower bulbs you want for that new cutting garden, then there’s more than tulips from which to choose.

There are bulbs that offer fragrance and others that provide ground cover, bulbs that blossom when snow’s on the ground and others that bloom into summer. And the good thing is that spring-flowering bulbs require minimal care once they’re established.

Some even “naturalize” after a year or two, or self-propagate if they’re in a place they like, adding still more color as the seasons come and go.

Here are some lesser known bulb varieties, bulbs new to the market, rare heirloom bulbs or bulbs that look promising for certain special characteristics.

•“Alliums are fabulous,” said Jo-Anne van den Berg-Ohms, president of Van Engelen Inc., a wholesale flower bulb company in Bantam, Conn. “They have huge globes, primarily purple that look like hovering balloons.” Try the “Schubertii” (a small, low-growing varietal with rose-purple florets), “Gladiator” (large, growing to 2-feet-tall with 6-inch rose-purple globes), or “Globemaster” (an aster-violet-colored giant with early foliage that stays green). Most alliums or “flowering onions” are deer and rodent resistant and appear stunning when cut or dried. Hardiness zones 5-8.

•“Lilies are great for early- to mid- and late-summer bloom,” van den Berg-Ohms said. “They’re terrific for garden display as well as in cut arrangements. The same with Dutch and dwarf iris.” Some suggestions: “Dot Com” lily (flowers in June and July with a pale whitish-pink bloom and brilliant raspberry-red speckled center), “Royal Fantasy” lily (honey tones of soft yellow varying to cream with raspberry-rose fragrance). Hardiness zones 4-8.

•Fritillaria are available in many sizes, shapes and colors. Try the checkerboard-patterned, bell-shaped, guinea hen variety (Meleagris). They are diminutive, showy and long lasting. Hardiness zones 3-8.

•Galanthus, or Snowdrops, one of the earliest flowers to emerge in spring. Try “Elwesii” (large flowering variety with creamy white flowers tipped green on gray-green foliage), or “nivalis Flore Pleno” (the so-called “Double Snowdrop” has milky white, drooping flowers tipped green. A good naturalizer.) Hardiness zones 3-8.

•Hyacinths. Compact, fragrant and hardy with up to six stems per bulb. Try “Blue Festival” (purple-blue with pale petal edges) or “White Festival” (opens creamy-white and matures to snow white). Hardiness zones 4-8.

•Daffodils. Good naturalizers with a long blooming season. Some favorites include the “Mount Hood” (opens creamy yellow and turns ivory-white as it matures) and “King Alfred Jumbo” (a large yellow variety popular for mass plantings or cut flower arrangements). Hardiness zones 3-7.

•Camassia. Star-shaped flowers on long stems that do well in moist sites. Try the “Blue Danube” (a blue bloom with yellow stamens) or “Semiplena” (a semi-double flowering plant with creamy blossoms, yellowing gradually as they age).

•Crocus. Can be planted massed in rock gardens, orchards, woodlots and gardens. Deer and other garden browsers usually avoid them. They start showing up in March and April around the Snowbelt. Try the “tommasianianus Lilac Beauty” (has star-shaped petals in a soft lilac color with contrasting yellow stamens) or the larger “vernus Jeanne d’Arc” (a vivid white with yellow stamens and purple base). Hardy through zones 4-8.

While it’s fun to discover so many flowering bulb varieties, don’t be quick to reject tulips, either — especially some of the new shapes in “designer” hybrids or the tried-and-true heirlooms.

“When people think of tulips, they usually think of the standard but spectacular tall, slender blooms,” van den Berg-Ohms said. “But many new varieties have been introduced in the last few years — blooms with fringes, doubles or lily-shapes. There are even varieties now with six or seven flowers per stem.”

Try the peony-like “Yellow Mountain” tulip (the pale yellow double is new this season, fragrant with faint green lines showing on the lower portions of the petals), the multi-flowering “Candy Club” (produces at least four flowers per stem and shows predominantly in ivory with pinkish edges) or the fringed “Max Durand” (a violet-purple bloom with shaggy top and variegated leaves).

Some rare tulips include the “Absalon,” an unusual chocolate brown on gold bloom (zones 4b-7a), the “Black Parrot,” a deep maroon flower with frilly edges (zones 3-7) and the “T. sylvestris Florentine,” a wildflower with small yellow blooms and the scent of violets. Thomas Jefferson is said to have grown the Florentine at Monticello.

(zones 5-8a).