Garden
Add a digital camera to your list of essential tools for the garden
01:00 AM EDT on Sunday, June 28, 2009

Macro photography can introduce you to a new world at your feet. This is a pollinator’s-eye view of the inside of a bearded tulip taken with a macro lens attached to a digital camera.
AP / Dean Fosdick
Advances in digital cameras are making garden photography a snap, not only in the quality of images but also in their usefulness.
Backyard gardeners are using digital photography for many uses, including landscape design and identifying plants.
For example, “If you run across an area of insect infestation, you can take a picture of it and e-mail it to somebody — a county agent or entomologist,” said Alan Detrick, author of Macro Photography for Gardeners and Nature Lovers (Timber Press, 2008).
“Instead of shipping an actual sample and hoping that the animal or infestation is alive when it gets there, you can get somebody to look at the image and diagnose the problem in real time.”
And naturally, when your garden is at its best, while you are visiting garden tours, or before you eat that gorgeous, subtly colored lettuce or eggplant you grew, you want to record it all.
You don’t have to pony up a big wad of cash to get started. The price of a good point-and-shoot camera (compact, fixed lens) begins around $150. A top quality digital single-lens reflex camera (larger body, interchangeable lenses) runs about $500. Accessories can be bought later, primarily a tripod, special purpose lenses and auxiliary lighting (think ring flash for close-in work).
The popular point-and-shoots are compact enough to carry comfortably in a pocket while you garden, Detrick noted.
A computer for downloading and editing images is essential. A printer helps too, but then many people already have that kind of gear.
Some other practical uses for digital cameras in the garden:
• Record-keeping. A picture really is worth a thousand words, especially if you’re keeping a journal or diary tracking the gardening changes you’ve made season by season. Many cameras will stamp the images with date and time taken.
• Landscape ideas. Visit public gardens or tour well-tended neighborhoods to record designs, colors, patterns or plant combinations you like. Be careful about such things as copyright, invasion of privacy and trespassing laws, though, especially if you intend to publish your pictures. Seek permission — written, if possible — before setting up a tripod or pointing your camera toward privately owned gardens.
• Identification. Link the names with the images, whether plant varieties or beneficial bugs. Take “mug shots” of troublesome insects to help in the hunt for safeguards. Document changes in plant maturity as you would a child’s growth spurts — from seed to sprout to full bloom.
• Memory prompt. Collect images of your garden through the seasons to identify empty spaces and perennial sites.
“About this time of year, you look at your garden and you only have a vague idea of where the perennials are planted,” said Walter Chandoha, a photographer and lecturer from Annandale, N.J. “Come spring, you’ll get a couple of pots of something from the nursery and you’ll dig down and uproot the peonies. But if you use the camera when they’re in bloom, then you’ll know.”
• Photograph the plants that worked well and those that didn’t. Build on your successes and avoid repeating the failures.
• Succession planting. “Use your camera four seasons a year,” Chandoha said. “It will help you know where the gaps are in bloom periods so you can put some annuals in there. Or it can help you design your garden a different way each year.”
• Inventories. A photographic record of your tools, implements, garden furniture, yard art and outbuildings will help document insurance claims or choose replacements if something is damaged, borrowed or lost.
• Wildlife pictures. Working in the garden is a natural way to encounter wildlife, and photographers often pursue images of plants and critters at the same time. “There really are no differences in technique between garden or nature photography,” said Ian Adams, author of The Art of Garden Photography (Timber Press, 2005). “Tools of the trade are exactly the same. The subjects are different but the cameras are identical.”
• Fine art. There are no deep, dark secrets that beginners should know for taking good garden photographs, said Chandoha, a member of the Garden Writers Association Hall of Fame whose pictures have appeared on more than 300 magazine covers and in thousands of ads. “All you have to do is copy pictures you like. Look at published garden pictures. Study [the] paintings of classic artists. Then try to make something similar.”
Macro lens gets you in close 1
Gardeners learn quickly that a fascinating world performs freely at their feet — a miniature world of dewdrops clinging to flower petals; ornate, one-of-a-kind snowflakes building into drifts; or the pollen-coated legs of honeybees foraging among the flowers.
What can make these images even more appealing is using a macro lens on a camera to document and share them.
“Macro photography is the visual portal to a world most people walk by without a glance,” says Alan Detrick in his book, Macro Photography for Gardeners and Nature Lovers (Timber Press, 2008). “Plants, animals and parts of plants and animals never before imagined enter the camera’s viewfinder” — and all in the backyard, or perhaps a neighborhood park.
Most point-and-shoot cameras have the macro mode built in.
“That allows you to focus on a subject as close as one-half to 1 inch in front of the camera lens,” says Ian Adams, who wrote The Art of Garden Photography (Timber Press, 2005).
“I strongly recommend a macro lens for plant portraiture.”
That generally means stepping up to a digital single lens reflex camera (D-SLR), which is designed for interchangeable lenses, including the general purpose macro series.
“Get the longest [macro lens] you can afford because they generally give you better results,” Adams says.
The shorter lenses are a good choice if you’re looking for a pollinator’s-eye view of particular blooms or want to belly up to some low-lying Alpine plants. But they require working at close range — often too close when trying to incorporate skittish insects or birds among the flowers.
“If you’re photographing a timber rattler and don’t want to get bitten, it’s good to be 3 or 4 feet away,” Adams says. “If you’re photographing butterflies, which startle easily, it’s nice to be able to step back and still have that macro capability.”
A tripod is probably the most important accessory for garden photographers to carry, Adams says. “It stabilizes the camera for sharper pictures. It gives you more flexibility for slow shutter speeds and large f-stops for deeper depth of field. You can look more deeply at the composition itself. You can’t see it all that well while hand-holding.”
— DEAN FOSDICK
Associated Press
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