Food
More than a fair shake on burgers and fries
01:00 AM EDT on Thursday, July 31, 2008

A waitress serves diners amid the Providence murals at Stanley’s Famous Hamburgers on Richmond Street.
With Donna Summer belting out disco, cheery designs all around and an all-American menu of burgers, fries and shakes, walking into the new Stanley’s on Richmond Street in Providence feels like being embraced by a big, happy hug.
What’s not to like about this institution which dates back to 1932 on Dexter Street in Central Falls? This second Stanley’s Famous Hamburgers only opened last April 16, but it feels like there should be one in everyone’s town. This is where teens can have an inexpensive date; families treat themselves to a dinner out and office pals enjoy a break from the usual sandwich shop. Clubgoers can satisfy their late-night hungry horrors until 2 a.m. every day but Monday and Tuesday.
I took my 15-year-old daughter to Stanley’s and her usual teen grimace faded the second we walked through the door. Even though “I Think I Love You” by the Partridge Family isn’t her kind of music, there’s no denying the funny-shaped clock, red and yellow booths, cartoon murals on the wall and lots of shiny stainless steel touches make a person smile.
Mind you the Stanleyburgers ($1.99) are not ground breaking. There are no fancy blends with foie gras added but rather old-fashioned ground beef seared on the grill along with freshly shredded onions and served on a simple, soft bun. The simplicity is a welcome taste treat.
Gregory Raheb, who bought Stanley’s in 1987, said they are made the same way they were under Stanley F. Kryla, the Polish immigrant who founded the 535 Dexter St. restaurant in Central Falls 56 years ago. That’s what comfort food is all about.
Cheeseburgers ($2.59), mushroom burgers ($2.99) and bacon burgers ($2.99) were always options. But Raheb has customized things with double burgers featuring a quarter pound of meat ($3.99). I tried one of those doubles looking for a rare-ish burger. The friendly service is worth noting here, with waitresses helping each other and offering old fashioned hospitality to everyone. My server warned in the gentlest way that rare wasn’t easy to guarantee but she promised pink. Indeed, she delivered a juicy, pink burger covered in loads of yummy mushrooms ($4.99).
The Hot Dog ($1.99) was equally satisfying and juicy, but if the hot dog bun was buttered before grilling it was very lightly. We tried regular French fries ($1.99 for a side portion, which is quite enough for a person) and the Dirty Fries ($2.99) which have salt, pepper and a blend of spices that seemed to include oregano.
Stanley’s also offers Quebec-style fries ($3.49) for those who prefer their potatoes drenched in shredded mozzarella and brown gravy.
I had a glass of the homemade lemonade, which was quite refreshing ($1.99), and my server politely noted that with a large ($2.99) I could have refills.
There has always been a fish fry menu on Fridays with fish and chips, fried clams and fried scallops. Raheb has added both red and white chowders ($3.29 bowl; $4.79 cup) to that menu as well as clam cakes ($3.29 for six).
He has also expanded the menu to include sandwiches, clubs, chicken tenders and salads. We also tried and liked the homemade chili ($3.29 for a cup) which Raheb introduced. It was largely bean-based but had just enough ground beef too, as well as peppers and onions. The spice was mild but the kind that hit the back of your throat to keep the heat coming.
The coffee shake ($3.99) was the perfect accompaniment to the burger and fries, and the chili. Ice cream is offered for dessert.
The restaurant is airy with high ceilings. But it’s not huge, and seats diners at booths and tables. There is also counter dining and high-top stools just for two. The hamburgers are cooked in an open space at the front of the restaurant. Fried orders are delivered out of a window behind the counter.
Those looking for an honest deal will see the Stanley special listed on the table. It includes a burger, side of fries and large soda for $4.99. The warm embrace is free. Dinner for two at Stanley’s might look like this: Cup of chili…$3.29 Mushroom burger…$2.99 Hot dog…$1.99 Side of French fries…$1.99 Side of Dirty Fries…$2.99 Lemonade…$1.99 Coffee shake…$3.99 Total food and drink…$19.23 Tax…$1.54 Tip…$4.00 Total bill…$24.77 Stanley’s Famous Hamburgers, 371 Richmond St., Providence, (401) 270-9292, stanleyshamburgers.com. Casual. No reservations. Street parking. Wheelchair accessible. High chairs. AE, D, MC, V. Opens at 11 a.m. daily; closes 11 p.m. Monday and Tuesday and 2 a.m. the rest of the week. Hamburgers, $1.99 to $5.49; sides, $1.99 to $6.49; soft drinks and shakes, $1.49 to $2.99.
More food stories
Restaurant Scene: Expanded menu lifts Tortilla Flats
Most Viewed Yesterday
Senate commission to study marijuana decriminalization
Jury awards Roger Williams hospital patient $3.9 million
Supporters of state name change poised to woo voters’ support
Most active surveys
Why do you think Sarah Palin is prematurely stepping down as Alaska's governor?
How is this weather affecting you?
Should marijuana be decriminalized and taxed?
If the election for governor was held today, who would you vote for?
Most e-mailed in the last 24 hours
Reader Reaction









You must be logged in to contribute. Log in | Register Now!
You are logged in as screenname | Log Out
You are logged in, but do not have a "screen" name. Create a Screen Name