What to choose to eat? A half-roasted chicken ($13.99) was delicious — moist and flavorful, expertly slow-roasted with herbs and served with a generous mound of garlicky mashed potatoes and a mixture of perfectly al dente green beans and broccoli. Ditto a salmon filet ($17.99) with a nicely caramelized grill finish on a moist filet that came with a mound of lightly dressed field-greens and fennel salad. Glancing at neighboring tables, I saw burgers that looked big and satisfying, and pasta dishes such as a porcini mushroom combination that I made mental note to try another time.

Surprisingly, on my review visits, I found the tenderloin of beef not to be of quite the same high standard that I remember so fondly from the old Paragon. In a Land and Sea combination of beef filet with seafood casserole ($24.99), the shrimp and scallops under their buttery crumb topping were tender, but the tenderloin was not, and neither was my filet mignon ($21.99). Both lacked flavor.

It seems to be a hallmark of the Panagos restaurants that portions are generous and prices very modest for what is in almost all cases a very high quality of food. In particular, a Southwestern Tortilla Salad ($9.99) could be a meal in itself, a fresh and delicious mixture of shredded iceberg, black beans, cilantro, pepperjack cheese, avocado and grilled chicken breast, served with a light ranch dressing in a big molded tortilla bowl. An antipasto platter named for Tuscany ($11.99) similarly offers enough for a table of four to enjoy: chunks of aged provolone, whole artichoke hearts, ruby-ripe roma tomatoes, a selection of olives, and high-quality charcuteries including salami, Parma prosciutto slices and capicola.

Desserts are presented for selection on a tray, with two of perhaps eight choices made in-house. Having room for only one, we shared the triple chocolate mousse cake ($7), a creamy layered creation with white on top and darker chocolate on the bottom — very, very good. There was a cheesecake on the tray, too, reminding me of one of the best desserts I’ve ever had — and it was at the old Paragon on Thayer: House-made cheesecake served with fresh berries flambeed at tableside in a spectacularly stylish presentation.

I must try to save room for that on my next visit to Mario’s, because they do it there, too.