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Don Jose Tequilas adds flair to brunch fare

01:00 AM EDT on Thursday, October 18, 2007

By Gail Ciampa

Journal Food Editor

Above, the Spicy Chorizo and Grilled Chicken Hash; below, examples of the dÉcor at Don Jose Tequilas by designer Kyla Coburn.

The Providence Journal / Sandor Bodo

So many people love, love, love weekend brunch. The blend of breakfast and lunch dishes offer an irresistible combination for a leisurely meal at a restaurant or bistro.

Yet for others, eggs and waffles hold little appeal when ordering out because they can make them so easily in their own kitchens.

Don Jose Tequilas on Federal Hill was designed for those folks. There, chefs Maria Hernandez and Raquel Diaz have assembled a brunch menu that is far from the usual fare, with sinful Strawberry Lime French Toast, a spicy Mexican goat cheese omelet, an elegant chorizo and grilled chicken hash, a protein-filled Don Jose steak and eggs and a robust breakfast burrito.

I couldn’t wait to take my place at one of the tile-topped outdoor tables on a recent mild Sunday morning and sample it all. From the grilled cornbread slices to the perfectly seasoned Mexican home fries, there were no disappointments here.

The French toast ($9.95) is outrageous as a breakfast dish. Two slices of vanilla pound cake are soaked in a tart lime custard and then browned until the outside is just a bit on the crisp side. On top is a warm strawberry sauce which is perfectly balanced with sweet fruit. Small slices of fresh pineapple, mango and kiwi make a wonderful salsa. I admit this is dessert, but if brunch is to be a treat, this is the dish to have.

The Mexican goat cheese omelet ($7.95) offers heat if that’s what you’re craving. With both goat and Monterey Jack cheeses and three eggs, this omelet gets its oomph from pico de gallo, the relish made with chopped cilantro, tomato, lime and jalapeno. The first bite started out mild and the second bite offered a bit of heat. By the time you reach the middle you’ve surely bitten into a jalapeno but as my companion said, “It didn’t make me cry.”

The accompanying Mexican home fries ($2.95 as a side dish) were delightfully seasoned with everything on our table including the spicy chorizo sausage with its flavor provided by garlic and chili powder. In an interview after the brunch, Jaime Gaviria, an owner, said cumin, cilantro and chiles all add to the flavor of these excellent home fries.

Also pleasing was the Spicy Chorizo and Grilled Chicken Hash ($10.95) which was beautifully presented sizzling in a cast iron skillet with a little potholder on the handle. The sausage and corn hash had plenty of tomatoes, too, and lined the bottom while grilled chicken slices adorned the top. The chicken was marinated, moist and bursting with flavor. The hash was more sweet than spicy but robust enough to enjoy. On the side was an order of beans and saffron rice.

We ordered the Don Jose Steak and Eggs ($12.95) with the three eggs served as a light and fluffy omelet. The accompanying piece of sirloin was a bit overcooked, not served medium rare as ordered, but still it tasted tender and fine with its mild marinade. That dish also comes with the home fries and the sweet, grilled cornbread.

The Ultimate Breakfast Burrito ($8.95) is stuffed with three eggs, chorizo and two cheeses, Monterey Jack and queso fresco and spiced with that excellent pico de gallo blend. Rolled in a flour tortilla and served with home fries and cornbread, it is a filling dish for those who come to brunch famished.

Brunch is served Saturdays and Sundays from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. There are cocktails including Mimosas and Bloody Marys ($6.95) and of course, margaritas. Sangria is also offered and a potent version it is with Chambord and rum as part of the mix.

As lovely as it was sit outdoors, once I stepped inside I was charmed by the new dÉcor by designer Kyla Coburn (whose credits include Loie Fuller on Westminster). The bar area has been spruced up with a dramatic new red glass bar top. In the middle of the room, large pieces of decorative tile have been laid and cafÉ tables set up to create the feeling of a Mexican patio. Around the perimeter of the room are the freshened up dining room tables and new hanging lamps that offer a bit more intimacy. The new look nicely matches the quality of food at Don Jose.

The food all had a lightness about it and unlike many brunches, we left satisfied and yet not at all stuffed. The credit goes to a delicate touch in the kitchen.

Bill of Fare

A brunch for two at Don Jose Tequilas might look like this:

2 mimosa cocktails…$13.90

Mexican goat cheese omelet…$7.95

Strawberry Lime French Toast…$9.95

Side Chorizo sausage…$3.95

Total food and drink…$35.75

Tax…$2.87

Tip…$7.20

Total bill…$45.82

Don Jose Tequilas, 351 Atwells Ave., Providence, (401) 454-8951, www.donjoseteq.com. Casual. Wheelchair accessible. Highchairs. AE, D, MC, V. Brunch served Saturday and Sunday 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Serving dinner seven nights and lunch Thursday and Friday. In November, lunch and dinner served daily. Brunch dishes $7.95 to $12.95. Bloody Marys and Mimosas $6.95, margaritas start at $5.95.

gciampa@projo.com

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