The stuffed artichoke hearts have just enough crabmeat to satisfy the palate.

EAST GREENWICH – When Mama or Papa doesn’t want to cook, there’s Chianti’s.

The latest Martucci family restaurant offers a familiar Italian menu with family-style cooking and moderate prices. During a recent meal with a friend, lunch was not rushed but leisurely and relaxed, with the food satisfying. The no frills or fuss setting doesn’t prepare a diner for the solid quality of the home-style meals.

Vinnie Martucci and his son Vincent, better known as T.J., opened Chianti’s Italian Cuisine in East Greenwich three years ago in the space once occupied by the Greenwich Tavern and Forge Restaurant. The Martuccis are accustomed to feeding crowds. From 1980 to 1987, they owned Martucci’s Family Restaurant on Atwood Avenue in Cranston. After that, they ran the kitchens at the Cranston Country Club and the Valley Country Club in West Warwick.

There’s no assembly-line feel in the paneled rooms at 195 Forge Rd. Though it was lunch, there was no problem ordering an appetizer from the dinner menu. Nor would there be any problem ordering a lunch special, the gnocchi in pink sauce, in a dinner portion, Vinnie Martucci said in an interview after the visit.

The dinner appetizer we enjoyed was stuffed artichokes. Six artichoke hearts ($7.95) were chock-full of a luscious mixture of breadcrumbs, buttery like Ritz crackers, and just enough crabmeat to satisfy the palate. A hint of lemon is unexpected, light and welcome. The artichokes maintained their integrity and had lots of form and taste.

Being a fan of gnocchi, that potato dumpling pasta, I couldn’t resist the promise of homemade Gnocchi Sorantina ($9.25 for lunch, $11.25 for dinner). They were perfect, just like Nana made them, all doughy and a perfect blend of potato and flour. The pink sauce was rich and a nice hearty accompaniment.

Looking for a seafood dish, my friend J. ordered the Pesce al Forno ($9.25 for lunch, $14.50 for dinner), a luscious fillet of scrod baked with cracker crumbs and covered in lemon butter. The fish was exceptionally fresh, flaky and delicious. Providing a delectable puddle under the fish, the lemon butter offered a citrusy flavor that complemented without being overpowering in proportion or flavor. The fish dish comes with rice and veggie or our choice, a big dish of pasta. The spaghetti with marinara sauce is comfort food all the way, with a little sweetness.

For an even lighter dish, the Chicken Balsamico ($9.25) is just right for lunch. Pieces of chicken marinated in balsamic dressing and grilled sit atop a salad with baby greens and so much more. There are hot peppers, artichokes, mushrooms, red onions and cherry tomatoes. Every bite offers a surprise and there’s enough chicken to satisfy the desire for protein in every forkful.

All the recipes are Vinnie Martucci’s. But he stopped doing all the cooking years ago as his business grew. Joe Maxwell is the head chef at Chianti’s. Not surprisingly, he said the chicken parmigiana ($13.95) is the most popular entrée, with the clams casino ($7.50) the most loved appetizer.

Without exception, all of our dishes at Chianti’s made me think of home cooking. That is the whole idea behind Martucci’s Pasta Pranzo menu on Sunday from noon to 9. A four-course family-style dinner costs $14.95 (adults) and $6.95 (for children under 7) and includes an antipasto, Italian wedding soup, penne with choice of sauce and a choice of entrée between chicken with mushrooms in a Marsala sauce and veal with mushrooms and peas.

Of course you’d need a nap after that Sunday dinner.

Already sated with our large luncheon meals, J. and I skipped dessert when we heard Chianti’s doesn’t make any of their own. When we saw the dessert tray at another table, it was the usual suspects of cheesecake, chocolate cake and more. But why save room when all the homemade pastas and sauces are there to delight?

Chianti’s is a house-wine kind of restaurant with choices of Copperidge and Bella Sera, at $4.25 and $4.50 a glass, respectively. There aren’t a lot of choices of varietals and countries of origin beyond California and Italy.

But then, Mama and Papa never had a wine bar either.

gciampa@projo.com