Apple-Pear Pie at the Heritage Tap. A flaky crust sets off the contrast of tart and sweet beautifully.

I thought the directions were wrong as we drove along a sweet suburban street in the Darlington section of Pawtucket. Nothing but homes were to the right and left and up ahead and I wondered how the Heritage Tap restaurant could possibly be on Grand Avenue.

Yet, there it was at No. 266, sitting neatly at the corner of Suffolk Avenue. How lucky these neighborhood residents to have this place where they can enjoy a hamburger, grilled pizza or chicken dish, enjoy a cold, refreshing Peroni on tap and have a homemade slab of pie for dessert.

Apparently things weren’t always so sunny for the neighbors, said new owner-chef David Robinson, who bought the Heritage with wife, Friedrika, in April.

For years, the Heritage was more tap than restaurant, and things could get loud for the neighbors. But the former owner changed all that by introducing food and renovating to make the spot more of an eatery. Now Robinson is further expanding the dream with his nightly specials, grilled pizzas and desserts baked by his retired father, making this a perfect place to stroll to for a dinner or a Saturday lunch.

The Heritage seats about 45, some at the bar, others at intimate tables adorned with colorful Tiffany-style lamps and still others at high-top tables comfortable for a small group. There are television sets over the bar (to satisfy the sports fans among us), overhead fans and small twinkle lights that make the room quite festive.

The place was hopping on the Saturday night We came to dine. Yet the one server kept us well-taken care of with both food, drink and suggestions.

We were pleasantly surprised with the bread basket that offered up a multi-grain bread made fresh that day. Robinson makes it with a sweet whole-wheat dough. Unlike some multi-grain breads, this one was not in the least grainy and yet still full of all that flavor such a bread variety offers.

Likewise, he makes his tender pizza dough and grills the shell before adding his sweet marinara sauce, mozzarella cheese and, in our case, pepperoni and prosciutto.

On tap were some nice choices including Newcastle Brown, Peroni and Harpoon Oktoberfest. We appreciated the range achieved in those three taps.

We shared a stuffie ($1.75 for each one) and found it tasty with lots of bread crumbs, bell peppers and plenty of butter but not so much clam.

Though the menu is full of chicken, seafood and meat entrées as well as burgers and sandwiches, we couldn’t help be interested by the specials board. This night it included a half rack of ribs and a mixed grill plate, each $14.95. They were served with a healthful stir-fry vegetable blend that included broccoli, zucchini, carrots, red and green peppers and onions. The mixed grill offered up tender steak tips, a flavorful sausage cut down the middle and grilled, and a small pounded chicken breast. It was a pleasing plate for a meat-lover. There were no heavy marinades used, so each protein maintained its own flavor profile to offer a nice variety of tastes. That doesn’t always happen with mixed dishes, but it is very successful here.

The Chicken Prosciutto ($10.95) was a hearty dish that still maintained a lightness thanks to the delicate cream sauce. Two nicely pounded chicken breasts were served over a large plate of linguine and the white sauce was drizzled over both. The chicken could have been served with fresh vegetables but it was so much more fun to enjoy every drop of the sauce, and the pieces of prosciutto, on the pasta.

As for the ribs, Robinson makes his own spice rub for them. Ribs are the perfect menu item in neighborhood spots like this, as they offer something manly to sink your teeth into. They were served with hand-sliced fries (what else would you want?), as was the house burger ($7.50). That too offers a fine pub meal for patrons: an 8-ounce beef patty, prepared to order, on a nice roll; toppings are 50 cents more each and include cheese, mushrooms or onions.

As for dessert, there are several that Robinson brings in. But ask for a slice of the homemade pies ($4.50) that his father, Charlie Robinson, makes. He does a very nice apple-pear one with a perfectly flaky crust setting off the contrast of tart and sweet beautifully. Topped with cool vanilla ice cream, it’s hard to beat and not so easy to share.

The younger Robinson, a Johnson & Wales University graduate, worked in restaurants all over the East Coast before returning to New England, where he managed Tort’s Bar and Grill in Seekonk. Wife Friedrika is from Pawtucket, and the two live about 10 houses away from their restaurant.

It all makes for a cozy situation that offers diners a tasty, affordable meal in a warm environment. Bill of Fare

A dinner at the Heritage Tap might look like this:

2 Peroni beers … $7

Grilled pizza … $8.95

Chicken Prosciutto … $10.95

House burger … $7.50

2 slices Apple-Pear Pie … $9

Total food and drink … $43.40

Tax … $3.66

Tip … $8.75

Total bill … $55.81

Heritage Tap, 266 Grand Ave., Pawtucket, (401) 725-8245. Casual. Street parking. Reservations. Highchairs. Not wheelchair accessible. D, MC, V. Open Tuesday-Thursday 4-10 p.m.; Friday 3-10 p.m.; Saturday noon-10 p.m. Appetizers $1.75-$8.95; sandwiches $6.95-$8.50; entrees $8.95-$14.95. Daily specials. Full liquor license.

gciampa@projo.com