Craft beer selections include Belgian Witkap Pater.

It might be tempting to find all the talk of “honest, handmade, seasonal food” at Providence’s La Laiterie at Farmstead a bit too precious. Then you taste the food and you understand.

One bite into the half-pound Vermont burger and I knew I had to save half to take home to my budding gourmand son. He was out for the evening when I returned home, so I put the elegant leftovers box in the fridge. When we next met in the morning, I had long forgotten about the burger, but he hadn’t.

“Did you bring leftovers home last night?” he asked. “Because I ate a hamburger that had soul.”

He knew nothing of La Laiterie’s lofty mission, but he tasted it in all the flavors one burger could offer.

Bringing such pleasure is what chefs Matt and Kate Jennings believe happens when you prepare food with ingredients that are produced locally by artisans whose hands make the food or grow it naturally. So they seek out craft beers, pasture-fed beef, local produce and, of course, exceptional cheeses. Then, the Jenningses make their own sauces, pickles and even ice cream to complement these ingredients.

It all started with Farmstead, Wayland Square’s cheese shop. When the space next door became vacant, the Jenningses made themselves a nice little 40-seat restaurant with a bar a year ago in May. It pretty much became an overnight favorite in the neighborhood and started drawing the attention of the national food magazines, which featured Kate’s desserts and, most recently, made it to Bon Appetit’s list of the best small restaurants in the country.

Its artisan bent and commitment to small-batch cooking and baking, the carefully selected wine and beer pairings, and moderate prices make it unique in most marketplaces.

Let’s start with that burger ($12). Like all the beef, it comes from Boyden Farm, a family business in Vermont that’s been in the cattle industry for years raising pasture-fed animals.

The burger is topped with a choice of cheese; I chose a smooth, extra-sharp Old Quebec Vintage Cheddar. Then there’s the crowning touch of Matt’s peppadew jam, which is made from the slightly sweet and spicy piquante peppers from South Africa that he blends with a little horseradish flavor. All this is served on one of the city’s best breads, a crusty roll from Olga’s Cup and Saucer in Providence.

Instead of plain old potatoes on the side, the burger is accompanied by polenta frites, cornmeal fries crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. They are shaped like rectangles and are yummy, especially when dipped into the garlicky house aioli. Matt Jennings also makes the crunchy butter pickles on the plate.

Before we got to that burger, we enjoyed some of the season’s best crab cakes ($14). They are made not with lump crab meat but Jonah crab — sweet crab harvested on Georges Bank near the continental shelf. The crab cakes have no filling beyond a little scallion and bell pepper and egg to hold them together. A serving of two is served with a bright, citrusy vinaigrette and baby greens.

Having just seen the Cheesemonger’s mac and cheese ($10) featured in Bon Appetit, we had to try it. The delectable crusty topping is baked with their own bread crumbs blended with herbs. A Colby-style mild Cheddar is the base of the cheese blend, which one has to believe changes when the chef has an entire cheese shop at his disposal. One bite of the hearty penne pasta isn’t enough to satisfy most cheese lovers. Try though I might to stop, I couldn’t deny one forkful after another of this addictive dish.

Though it seems hard to imagine, both the crab cakes and mac and cheese are small plates. The burger is one of five larger plate selections, which change regularly based on seasonal ingredients.

On the night of our visit, there were fish, pork and vegetarian choices, and a grilled organic flatiron steak ($25). This top blade piece of meat was cooked medium rare as ordered and was complemented by some great accompaniments. Roasted beets were exceptional, marinated in Champagne vinaigrette. There was also a Provencal olive salad, with the olives cured and ground up and served with olive oil.

Kate Jennings’ desserts are not to be missed. While Matt is working on all those savory dishes, she is the queen of sweet. She makes all her own ice creams, including the cinnamon treat that tops the excellent peach crisp ($8). The crumb topping is heavy on delicious oats, the peaches are sliced delicately and every bite is sweet.

Her lemon shortcake ($8) offers so many textures and tastes, it was intoxicating. With a sweet blueberry compote, a tart lemon-lime curd and tender cake, the combination is beyond perfect, almost ethereal.

Stefan Ziewacz, dining manager and sommelier, administers a wine list that offers lovely descriptions of each wine, suggestions for pairing, and wine flights, selections of three red, white or rosÉ wines that complement each other.

The craft beer choices are also excellent, with Brooklyn Ale and Belgian Witkap Pater the latest draft additions.

What didn’t I try at La Laiterie? The cheese plate. That is easy to enjoy at any number of Rhode Island restaurants that buy from Farmstead. I’d rather have the Jenningses cook for me and get some of their savory and sweet food with soul.

gciampa@projo.com