Chicken Marsala with a side of linguine at Macera’s Italian Restaurant in Cranston.

The Providence Journal / Sandor Bodo

CRANSTON

From the cuteness and intimacy of the dining room, through the last bite of a creamy, airy tiramisu, Macera’s Italian Restaurant hits every note so right.

Carafes of ice water with lemon are delivered to each table. A wonderful balsamic vinaigrette adorns crisp salad blends appointed with olives, peppers (sweet and hot), croutons, tomatoes and cucumbers. The bread basket is fresh, with slices from Buono’s Bakery, and the grilled pizza is crisp. The perfectly balanced tomato sauce clings to every piece of pasta. The chicken dishes are moist and the cappuccino strong, hot and frothy. From soup to sauce, everything is homemade. Italian music plays quietly in the background. Servers are warm and welcoming.

This trattoria and take-out kitchen is well hidden in the back of the building at 1500 Oaklawn Ave. in Cranston (across from Marshall’s Plaza) and in the same strip mall with the day-glo plastic palm trees of the Mardi Gras night club. It’s worth seeking out not only for the wonderful dishes and comfortable dining experience but for Grandma’s Kitchen, the take-out area that is down a hall from the dining room. Complete with kitchen sink, this is where hungry, busy folks file in to buy a variety of soups and sauces by the quart, half-gallon or gallon. They come for welcome taste surprises including the meaty signature chicken escarole soup, which includes slices of hard-boiled eggs. Either red or white chowders are featured on Wednesday and Friday. Always there are other choices from the soup line-up, which includes beef barley, pasta fagioli, lentil, split pea, escarole and beans or cream of broccoli.

Me, I’m partial to dining in. I’m crazy about the Grilled Chicken Arrabbiata with its bite-sized slices of meat tossed in a hot and spicy marinara sauce and served over linguine. Like most dishes, diners can choose it with penne or bowtie pasta as well. At lunch, the dish costs $10.95 and comes with salad or soup. Though I think their salad is a refreshing green in a sea of red, I especially liked the pasta fagioli and escarole soup. For a vegetarian option, the Eggplant Parmigiana ($9.95 at lunch or dinner) features layers of lightly fried and battered eggplant topped with the wonderful house sauce and thin slices of cheese.

The lunch menu includes really large torpedo sandwiches (served on a choice of hard or soft rolls). Judging by a look around the dining room, they are a popular option.

While Macera’s calls what it does “home cooking,” I beg to differ. I can relate the expression to the way the comfort food makes a diner feel with a menu of more than two dozen Italian specialties from gnocchi to pasta aglio olio to lasagna. Appetizers include more comfort ranging from polenta with sausage, to rabe, to a dish certain diners will be very happy to see, tripe in a thick tomato sauce ($8.50).

But home cooking doesn’t always have the layered spices of the Arrabbiata sauce or the concentrated flavors of the demi-glace for the Chicken Marsala ($13.95, for veal $15.95). The three cheese blend on the pepperoni pizza is a nice complement to the spicy meat. That’s why Macera’s is a special find.

For dessert, save room for the tiramisu, which has a custardy cream with light layers of lady fingers. The large slice is perfect for sharing.

There are plenty of wines by the glass available and prices are moderate starting at $4.75. A full bar is also offered.

David Macera, chef and proprietor, opened the restaurant 13 years ago and today chef Luis Rodriguez runs the kitchen and makes the dishes from passed down recipes.

The dining room seats about 50 and is decorated by themes. On my first visit, I assumed the management had a warm spot for red. Then I realized even the red checked tablecloths had rows of hearts and the theme was last month’s St. Valentine’s Day. Now, pastel tablecloths adorn the dining room as do bunny rabbits. Spring brings a new warmth of flowers and renewal, just one of the many tasty gifts that Macera’s offers.

Macera’s Italian Restaurant, 1500 Oaklawn Ave., Cranston, (401) 463-5303. Take out or dine in. Casual. Parking lot. No reservations. Several steps into the dining room. Highchairs. AE, D, M, V. Monday to Saturday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m to 7 p.m. Lunch menu served until 4; then dinner. Entrees $9.95-$18.95 for dinner; lunch $6.26-$12.95. Full liquor license; wine by the glass $4.75-$7; bottles $19-$38.Bill of fare

A meal for two might look like this at Macera’s:

2 glasses wine…$10.00

Eggplant Parmigiana…$9.95

Chicken Marsala…$13.95

Tiramisu…$5.95

Total food and drink…$39.85

Tax…$3.19

Tip…$8.00

Total…$51.04

gciampa@projo.com