Food
Leisurely Conversations and traditional favorites
01:00 AM EST on Thursday, November 2, 2006

The Clams Casino, featuring diced red pepper, a cracker crumb topping and bacon bits, was pleasantly spicy.

The Chicken Parmigiana entrée at Conversations in East Greenwich offers just the right balance of chicken, cheese and sauce.
THE PROVIDENCE JOURNAL / Gretchen Ertl
I was looking for a place to lunch and catch up with some friends, and Conversations seemed like just the place to fit the bill.
Rose Farina, for years the owner of the now-defunct Golden Lantern in Warwick, opened Conversations 18 years ago to host friends who loved to talk over the old times. Back at the Golden Lantern, she served many celebrities in the heyday of the old Warwick Musical Theatre and had a grand time doing it, hosting Liberace among many others. She extended her run in the hospitality business until three years ago, when she sold Conversations to Kenneth and Barbara Guercia. Ken Guercia was a longtime manager at Richard’s Pub in East Greenwich.
They’ve kept her legacy intact, changing very little in the restaurant.
From the low chairs with high sides to sink right into, to the twinkle lights gracing the walls, Conversations is dimly lit and feels private enough for all the conversation folks can muster between bites of traditional Italian and seafood dishes. Over lunch, my friends C and D debated everything from politics to movies with me while our server, Brandon, kept the food coming.
In an interview after our visit, Ken Guercia recalled the day and noted that he’d had staffing problems that resulted in bartender Brandon serving a rush of tables. But we found him efficient, pleasant and very much at the ready with our every request.
Likewise, we found the food from the kitchen of veteran chef Kevin O’Brien (Farina’s nephew) satisfying and comforting. Our choices of clams casino, scallops, chicken and eggplant Parmigiana were good ones, with plenty of homemade flavor.
Furthermore, our meals came with our choice of soup or salad, a disappearing treat at restaurants. Each meat or fish dish also included our choice of fries or pasta. The luncheon prices of $7.95 for eggplant, $8.95 for chicken and $9.95 for scallops were real deals. Though we tried an appetizer for purposes of review, it was not necessary for our appetites.
That appetizer, clams casino ($8.95), was so tasty, C didn’t need to use the hot sauce brought to the table. And he always adds hot sauce. Six clam shells were topped with a cracker crust that was nice and buttery. There were chunks of clams blended with finely diced red peppers and just enough bacon bits on top.
My soup of the day was a lovely version of Italian wedding soup. There were plenty of meatballs floating in a fresh chicken broth that was not salty at all. The orzo pasta was cooked just right.
The house Caesar salad offers a homemade dressing with an ample amount of anchovies blended in, which pleased us no end.
Likewise, the eggplant was delectable, with paper-thin slices, neatly breaded and adorned with a thin layer of mozzarella cheese and sauce. The blending of the sweet sauce and fresh eggplant was not overpowered by cheese, as sometimes happens.
The chicken version of the parmigiana featured two large cutlets, pounded thin and baked perfectly so as not to be too crusty or too dry. As was the case with the eggplant, the cheese and sauce were in nice proportion.
At Brandon’s suggestion, I opted for the baked fries rather than the side dish of pasta. C ordered the pasta and I found a bite of his nicely done with al dente penne.
Guercia told me they don’t fry foods. Not only are the fries baked, which is preferable to deep frying; so, too, is the calamari appetizer.
We tried a slice of chocolate cake ($5.95) for dessert that didn’t taste as fresh as it could have. The chocolate flavor was enhanced by a drizzle of chocolate sauce. Guercia said they make their desserts in-house, including apple crisp and tiramisu, but there was only a choice of chocolate and carrot cake on the day of our visit.
While Guercia’s dinner prices are higher than those at lunch, he offers a Sunday-to-Wednesday-night special with dinner for two costing $29.95. There are five choices of entrees, and the deal includes soup or salad and a bottle of house wine. A piano from Farina’s musical era remains, and there is live entertainment Thursday, Friday and Saturday.
Music, it seems, is still a vital part of Conversations.
A lunch for two at Conversations might look like this:
Scallops Block Island…$9.95
Chicken Parmigiana…$8.95
2 glasses Charles Krug
Cabernet Sauvignon…$14.00
Chocolate cake…$5.95
Total food and drink…$38.85
Tip…$7.80
Tax…$3.11
Total…$49.76
Conversations, 1050 Main St., East Greenwich, (401) 884-5868, www.diningquest.com. Casual, free parking in lot, handicapped accessible with ramp or elevator, highchairs. AE, MC, V. Serving Monday to Thursday 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.; Friday 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday open at 4 p.m. Appetizers $3.95 to $10.95; pizza $11.95 to $13.95; dinner entrees $14.95 to $29.95; light entrees for lunch $7.95 to $12.95; desserts $3.95 to $6.95. Wines by the glass $6-$9; bottles $23 to $250.
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