What a great idea to set up a restaurant and wine bar at the movie theater. Sometimes there's just no time to eat first, and most of us don't want to make popcorn and Junior Mints our dinner.

Or sometimes you just don't want the evening to end. What a nice alternative, to enjoy a movie and then pop in for a beer or wine before heading into the cold.

It's easy to overlook Chatters as one walks into the Providence Place Cinemas. The small dining space and lounge is set off to the right of the snack bar and its simple design, with a bar and a few tables and two flat-screen televisions, makes it blend into the woodwork. Plus, with everyone racing to their movie, few look around to see what's new.

But Chatters is worth the look.

We found the place warm and inviting on a recent Friday night. With the cheerful server, Kat, behind the bar, we enjoyed drinks, appetizers and sandwiches.

Being at a movie theater, we also found other patrons friendly as they came and went, inquiring of us and each other, "What are you seeing tonight?" It felt like a neighborhood spot without the neighborhood.

For parents who aren't needed in a theater but want to stay close, there are two big flat-screen televisions that show sports or entertainment. Wireless Internet access is also available.

Keeping it simple

With 30 wines by the glass, it feels most like a wine bar. The selections cover many varietals, including a Malbec from Argentina ($7), Riesling from Germany ($6), Shiraz from Australia ($5.50) and Chianti from Italy ($7). Local wines are on the menu as well, including two from Sakonnet Vineyards in Little Compton, Vidal Blanc ($6) and Gewurztraminer ($12). Piper Heidsieck comes in a split for $10.

There are about a dozen beers as well, including Samuel Adams and Harpoon on draft and local Newport Storm in a bottle.

The menu is limited, with only appetizers and hot sandwiches, but that is calculated. National Amusements, the company that owns the cinemas as well as the Showcase on Quaker Lane in Warwick, where another Chatters is planned for the near future, has more elaborate menus elsewhere. The Chatters at the Buckland Mall in Manchester, Conn., includes entrees and salads and desserts.

But with so many restaurants in Providence Place, the company felt the small-bites menu the right niche, said company spokesman Wanda Whitson.

And it works. While you won't find cutting-edge, chef-prepared dishes, we enjoyed some yummy miniature crab cakes and some tangy Buffalo chicken egg rolls. They would be perfect to enjoy in your movie seat. (All food can be ordered to go, but wine or beer can't leave Chatters.) I, for one, would prefer an order of miniature Maryland crab cakes to salty popcorn any day of the week.

The crab cakes ($7.95 for plateful) were bite-sized and nicely spiced, and paired with a mild remoulade sauce, the traditional seafood accompaniment. I had a glass of South African Sauvignon Blanc from Fairview ($8) while my husband had an ice cold Italian Peroni beer ($4.25) to quench his thirst.

I liked the Buffalo chicken egg rolls even more for their crunchy dough stuffed with spicy chunks of chicken and finely chopped vegetables. Though they came with blue cheese dressing, I found no need to dip for flavor.

Attention to detail

Our server, Kat, was well versed in her job. When I expressed concern that the red wine bottles were sealed simply with corks, she assured me that she opened new bottles each evening to ensure that no wine was past its prime. When she poured me a glass of Gundlach Bundschu Block 13 Pinot Noir ($12), I found it to be an elegant wine with a nice finish. All the wine is poured in fine, delicate wine glasses, another plus for Chatters.

Kat suggested we try the cheese plate ($11.95), but we weren't in a cheesy mood. But when she described the smoked gouda, Vermont cheddar and blue cheese served with crackers, melon slices and grapes, I could see its appeal.

Instead, we tried two of the five sandwich choices (all $7.95).

The ham and Vermont Cheddar Pretzel Sandwich was as advertised, a giant pretzel sliced down the middle and lined with deli-style ham notable for not being salty. It was served with yellow Vermont cheese. This sandwich was all about texture, and a fun texture it was.

We paired it with Brahma, a Brazilian beer that is a pleasant pilsner, a complement to the pretzel and ham.

The grilled chicken and spinach panini sandwich was excellent. It started with a juicy piece of meat topped with a generous helping of cooked spinach on one side and pesto sauce on the other. A slice of yellow cheese added a creamy touch. The sliced Italian bread was warmed and ridged from the panini press, which melted everything together in a tasty way. It was served warm.

All sandwiches come with tortilla chips and salsa, a nice complement.

My only wish would have been not to see cheese dyed yellow. But I understand the movies have had color for a long time. Now so, too, must their food.

gciampa@projo.com / (401) 277-7266

Bill of Fare

A dinner for two at Chatters might look like this:

Mini Maryland crab cakes $7.95

Glass Gundlach Bundschu Block 13 Pinot Noir $12.00

Brahma beer $4.25

Pretzel sandwich $7.95

Chicken and spinach panini sandwich $7.95

Total food and drink $40.10

Tax $3.20

Tip $8.00

Total bill $51.30

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Details, Details

Chatters, at the Providence Place Cinemas, 10 Providence Place, Providence, (401) 270-4660, wine bar and casual food. Opens daily at 11 a.m.; closes at 11 p.m. Sunday to Thursday and 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. MC and V. Highchairs and handicapped accessible. Small bites from $6.95 to $11.95; sandwiches $7.95. Some 30 wines by the glass $5-$12 and a variety of draft and bottled beers.