Foods, more than most things, evoke memories. Unless you were forced to eat liver as a child, most are of the happy variety. A particular recipe recalls family celebrations. Or a sweet brings warm memories of a beloved grandmother.

A certain dish can also place you back in time to open a magic box of cheery feelings that has been stored away for a long time. Years may pass, but happy thoughts are quickly awakened with a few ingredients.

That's how I felt looking down at the menu at Newport's White Horse Tavern.

As I spied the entree selection for Beef Wellington, an old movie I hadn't seen in a long time played in my head. Across the corner table on the second floor, I could see the same film appearing in my husband's eyes as well. We were both thinking about another tavern, one in Glastonbury, Conn., where we enjoyed Beef Wellington more than 25 years ago.

It was our favorite dish at our then-favorite restaurant, the Blacksmith Tavern. We only went there on occasions like birthdays and Valentine's Day, because it was a luxury. But it was always special because those were our courtship days. We were young, working in our first jobs in separate states, and anticipating a life together.

Now, amid our happy conversation of that time before marriage, kids and the ensuing daily chaos, our expert server, Dominick, appeared to take our drink order. He had an easy manner as he told us about the evening's specials.

Though he was formally attired in a tuxedo -- all the staff is -- there was nothing stuffy or pretentious about him. Like the restaurant, he wore his elegance with ease. That is what I think I'll remember 25 years from now about our romantic dinner at the White Horse Tavern.

The restaurant is a grand old place with intimate rooms, hurricane lamps and small-paned windows that harken to the past. While it seems meant for special evenings, it has an easy, fun atmosphere that made it nice for three generations at the next table to enjoy dinner as well as young friends to celebrate their Newport vacation.

But not to be lost amid the Colonial charm of the building built in 1673 and first used as a tavern in 1687, is the food -- the elegant, glorious food.

Exceptionally divine

Was it kismet that Dominick made sure to tell us that Beef Wellington ($39) is the restaurant's signature dish?

In the hands of executive chef David Deen, it is exceptional.

A melt-in-your-mouth piece of filet is coated with a rich layer of pate de foie gras, a smooth goose-liver preparation lightened up into a mousse. The texture, the flavor and the smooth puff pastry were all divine.

It is served with red bliss smashed potatoes and a fabulous vegetable presentation of French green beens, carrot slivers and wax beans secured in a ring made from a baked potato slice.

But the best part -- I know it sounds like I've already told the best part -- is the a la perigourdine sauce. It's a rich brown sauce flavored with black truffles, Madeira wine and a veal reduction that takes two days to make.

Now as romantic as this dinner was, nestled there at the cozy table by a window, I didn't want to share. So I was grateful indeed that my husband's New England lobster ($39) rivaled my Wellington in taste and exceeded it in sheer beauty.

This was another Dominick suggestion, and we would have totally overlooked it without his advice.

Why it was called "New England" is beyond me, because this is a delicate Asian preparation far superior to any boiled, baked or buttered crustacean we'll see this season.

Grilled lobster brochettes are tossed with baby corn, straw mushrooms and snow peas in a lighter-than-you'd-imagine wasabi butter sauce. The balance of lobster and vegetable was divine, as was the sauce's smoky flavor.

This mixture is colorful and beautiful on its own, but it spilled out from a sculptured and fried white rice-paper basket. It was so delicate, the ideal thing to bite here and there to contrast with the stir-fry blend. My husband spent almost as much time admiring his plate of food as eating it.

Every place the dish could have gone awry, it didn't. The lobster wasn't tough, the sauce wasn't overwhelming, the vegetables were crisp.

It was, simply, a triumph.

Sweet excellence

The desserts too, were excellent. They are prepared by pastry chef Ken Worthen.

The seasonal creme brulee ($9) was infused with espresso and Kahlua and garnished with fresh berries. The coffee blend offered just enough flavor to be subtle and allow the creamy custard flavor to dominate. The sugar coating was expertly made to ensure a sweet crunch with each spoonful.

The Chocolate Tower ($10) was outrageously decadent, with two layers of rich, and I mean rich, chocolate cake (more like fudge) layered with mocha creme and chocolate ganache, then covered in more chocolate, but garnished with a hefty hand of Bailey's creme anglaise and chantilly creme. Finally, there was a triangle of white marble chocolate on top.

It satisfied my inner sweet tooth to enjoy one spoon of chocolate and then one spoon of creme. Then there was a huge fresh strawberry as a fruity contrast.

Only an appetizer failed to rock our dining world. The glazed scallop dish ($13) suffered from overkill with a heavy lemon cream glaze that sat like a foamy mousse in rows. The delicate scallop preparation -- they were thinly sliced -- was lost.

The exotic mushroom ragout ($12) was a tasty blend of funghi, shiitake, oyster, portobello, porcini and morels in a wonderful butter and sherry sauce. But it was so rich, it needed something plain to complement it. Instead it was served with a piece of parmesan toast, and the cheese was just too much richness for one palate.

Nice note, lighter mood

The wine list is a fine one, with lots of international choices of styles and varietals. I asked Dominick to suggest a pairing for my Wellington, and his Rutz Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir selection ($8.50) hit a nice note.

New at the White Horse Tavern this season is the owner, Newport native Paul Hogan. And the tavern has lightened up with an informal upstairs bistro called the 1673, which serves entrees priced from $11 to $28 including a lobster mac and cheese, a Maine crab-stuffed portobello, and chicken and avocado Napoleon. General manager Jeannie Sullivan said it's part of the lightened mood at the tavern.

Having more choices for dining, and more dishes on the menu, only makes the spot more appealing as a destination when diners crave a new memory or want to stir up an old one.

A dinner for two at White Horse Tavern might look like this:

Glass Jibe Sauvignon Blanc ........$8

Glass Rutz Pinot Noir .............$8.50

New England Lobster ..............$39

Beef Wellington ..................$39

Creme Brulee ......................$9

Chocolate Tower ..................$10

Total food and drink ............$113.50

Tax ...............................$9.44

Tip.....................................$23

Total .................................................$145.94

gciampa@projo.com / (401) 277-7266

The White Horse Tavern, 26 Marlborough St., Newport, (401) 849-3600, www.whitehorsetavern.com. Fine dining. Reservations. Bathrooms not wheelchair accessible, two steps to enter restaurants. Highchairs. Parking lot. Open daily, lunch 11:30 to 2:30 p.m. and dinner 5:30 to 9 p.m. but later on Saturday. AE, V, MC, D. Five-course fixed price brunch on Sunday, noon to 3 p.m. Appetizers $9-$13; entrees $26-41; desserts $6-$10. Wines by the glass $6-$12, half bottles $12.50-$50 and many bottle selections $30 to $500. $$$$.

THE MENU

This restaurant's menu:

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