Two favorite places in downtown Providence and one on Federal Hill

01:00 AM EDT on Thursday, July 20, 2006

BY GAIL CIAMPA
Journal Food Editor

The outdoors beckons. Soft breezes, warming sun and happy sounds -- these are some of the things we love about summer days.

Why eat inside with the whine of an air conditioner when you can dine "al fresco"?

It seems as though every restaurant and cafe and bistro puts out tables and chairs when summer finally arrives. You can enjoy dining out early for breakfast or late into the sultry evenings.

For me, lunch is the favorite time to dine outdoors. To retreat from work and seize the beauty of a day is its own reward. But to add friends and food to it . . . that's a bit of heaven.

So on three of summer's loveliest days -- yes, we have had three -- I rounded up dining companions and hit the road. I resolved to have leisurely lunches at three urban restaurants in totally different outdoor settings.

The first was quiet and the setting almost industrial. And it was nice.

The second was very busy and very green. And it was nice.

The third was a scene with a side of hustle-bustle. And it was nice.

You can say that's not very discerning. But sometimes it's pleasant to change the pace of a meal and enjoy the unexpected.

Go with the flow in the summer, even if it's not your style the rest of the year. Slow down, you move too fast.

Try to make the lunch last, especially if it's on cobblestone.

CAV

The scene: Open for 16 years in a museum-like restaurant with beautiful pieces all around, the eatery has secured a permit for outdoor dining for the first time.

Owner Sylvia Moubayed spared no expense, with comfortable chairs imported from Germany and elegant umbrella-topped tables for the courtyard outside her dining room. Located in the city's jewelry district beyond most of the hustle and bustle, the courtyard is quiet. Old factory buildings stand tall on three sides. Art and framing stores on either side of the courtyard have a smattering of customers coming and going. It feels very Old World and comfortable.

A small garden by CAV's entrance offers herbs that will be used in the meal preparation. At one point, a chef scoots out the door to grab some basil and retreats into the kitchen. What a sweet scene.

It's also easy to have an intimate conversation here. On two visits, all the tables are full, with a mix of workers sharing a quick lunch and girlfriends enjoying a leisurely one. (We tended toward the leisurely pace as we wished to try the wines, appetizers, entrees.) But the acoustics are in the diner's favor, with each table an island unto itself.

The food: If you want to be fussy about your dining, it's easy here. There's an ambitious mix of dishes, including several from the dinner menu if you want to experience the full fruition of the kitchen under chef Eric Wolf.

We tried the Poulet aux Poires, CAV's signature dish of seared chicken breast with red pears poached in wine served with a ginger pear sauce over Asian chive cake ($12 for lunch). While the appeal of the dish is easy to see --sweet and meaty with a bit of salty from the chive cake -- it's too rich for our noontime tastes.

Salads and sandwiches, both beyond the usual fare, are in order here. The Sandwich Board's selections are perfect for the setting.

A crusty French baguette is stuffed with Portobello slices, grilled chicken breast, and fresh basil and tomato ($9.95). It's a delectable blend of good things that go together like birds of a feather. It pairs nicely with a summery Riesling ($6.50) from the substantial wine list or a with a glass of fruity sangria.

You can't go wrong with the salads, either. The Caesar ($6.50) has chopped Romaine side by side with large, uncut leaves for a dramatic presentation and a palate-pleasing blend with a light dressing.

Two appetizers might appear clumsy, but their flavor is just right. The two large chive cakes are Asian-inspired and full of savory flavor ($5.95), their doughy texture combined with the vibrant herb flavor. The bruschetta ($6.95) offers a large slice of garlic bread topped with hunks of tomatoes and artichokes.

While not delicate in style, each flavor fit the profile of freshness that one demands in the summer.

The bottom line: CAV is relaxing, with attentive service but a leisurely pace if you desire it. The food is at its best when the dish is simple blend of seasonal ingredients.

Far from the madding crowd, it's an easy place to go and enjoy an expansive wine list and large menu. You can enjoy Sunday brunch and dinner, as well as lunch and after-work cocktails in the courtyard.

Olga's Cup and Saucer

The scene: How beautiful is it to sit among mature trees, plantings and herb gardens just feet from busy Point Street? Cars might be whizzing by, but Mother Nature seems to cradle you in her arms.

Artist-owners Olga Bravo and Rebecca Wagner have made a secret garden and invited everyone to their party to enjoy the art, which includes sculptures and the tables themselves. The crowd here is young and old. Most diners appear to have escaped their corporate pods for a few moments to commune with nature, friends and really fine food.

On the day of our visit, my companion, "D," spied a large table that included actor Joe Pantoliano. He played the evil Ralph Cifaretto on The Sopranos and plays the mayor in CBS' upcoming series Waterfront, set in Providence. His table drew little attention, but one woman did approach him to say she enjoyed his work.

One member of Pantoliano's party never sat down or put down his cell phone down. He paced instead of eating. His loss.

But even without the celebrity sighting, Olga's is abuzz with energy. It starts behind the counter with a staff that is young, attentive and quick.

That long line to order shouldn't discourage anyone, as it moves in a flash thanks to well-trained staff. And anyway, it takes a while to decide what to select from the blackboard menu and from the specials which are so seductively appealing behind the glass deli case.

The food: We were duly seduced by the trio of salads, which meant that we could mix and match on one plate ($8.75). On this day we chose orzo salad in a light vinaigrette; a crunchy slaw with peppers; and the fresh pesto paired with pasta. Each salad was divine in its own way. I loved the orzo for its tart dressing, the slaw's texture was delightful and the pesto was full-flavored.

But the salads only served as warm-up for the excellent sandwiches served on Olga's famous bread. (You'll find it served by many of Rhode Island's best restaurants.)

The Cuban panini ($7.95) is one of the city's best versions, with roasted pork loin, Black Forest Ham, Swiss cheese and dill pickles perfectly slathered with spicy chipotle mayo on the rustic Filone bun. All the bread is baked in a stone hearth oven. The Cuban is grilled and pressed flat, creating a delightful blend of texture and flavor.

The chipotle Cheddar vegetable melt ($7.75) may have been the most vibrant sandwich I've ever seen. Even after grilling on roasted garlic bread (yum) the sauteed spinach was a beautiful shade of glistening green. So fresh, it was adorned with caramelized onion, roasted red pepper, Cheddar cheese and chipotle mayo.

Finally, D loved the pizza of the day ($7.25), thin and crispy, and topped with luscious slices of artichoke and eggplant and just a touch of Cheddar.

Before the sandwiches were even delivered, we ate dessert, for Olga's pastries are every bit as good as the breads. A mango chiffon cake slice was light as air ($3.25) while a cappuccino cake slice ($3.25) was dense with coffee flavor and delightfully sweet.

The bottom line: This is a place you could go every day with a menu of entrees, daily pizza choices, calzones, salads and those perfect sandwiches. The quick service makes it easy to dine on a lunch hour. But the trees and flowers make you want to stay the afternoon.

Venda Ravioli outdoor cafe

The scene: I knew we'd be pushing our luck for a table, never mind a parking space, when "K" and I left the office after noon on a Friday to head to Federal Hill. On a beautiful day, the tables on the plaza at DePasquale Square fill up fast.

Two spins -- searching for a spot from Spruce Street to Atwells Avenue -- later, we approached the entrance of Venda Ravioli and learned there'd be a wait. Every table was filled outside the Italian market.

But just as quickly, an executive decision was made, and several parties of waiting diners, including us, were escorted across the square to the space in front of Costantino's Ristorante & Caffe, Venda owner Alan Costantino's fine-dining restaurant. We quickly filled up all the tables there. It didn't matter which side of the square we were on -- service was attentive and prompt, even with constant water refills.

As we ordered glasses of Prosecco, the sparkling wine of the Veneto region ($5.95), I spied the dynamics all around us. It seemed to me that tables of young men were busy watching tables of young women. It added a fun energy to the atmosphere, which was anything but quiet.

Street traffic hummed, shoppers bustled by, and every once in a while, some meat-market aromas wafted by from the Antonelli's Poultry. But once our crusty bread arrived, it was all we could smell.

The food: Venda chef Sal Cefaliello's offerings change daily. But there seem to be a few constants, and one that never disappoints: the asparagus and prosciutto appetizer ($7.95). Perfect spears of grilled asparagus are wrapped with creamy prosciutto and topped with shaved Parmigiano. Put vegetable, cured meat and salty cheese together, and you have a dreamy dish.

But we took our server's suggestion not to miss the Fiore di Zucchini ($2.25 each), pan-fried zucchini flowers stuffed with goat cheese and Tuscan salami. We ordered two but could have had a plateful, as they complemented the Prosecco so well.

Truth be told, we'd have loved the light delicacies with anything. They were fab.

Still to come was a dish of Petto di Pollo ($8.95), grilled marinated chicken breast sliced just right and served over mesclun greens. This is the quintessential dining al fresco dish: A fresh salad with marinated chicken just off the grill. Protein and greens fuel a body for the rest of the day.

Being at Venda, we had to try some pasta. The lasagna special ($8.95) was nicely done and we couldn't stop eating it. But it's just not a summer dish. All that mozzarella and Bolognese and bechamel sauce is just too heavy to enjoy on a hot, sunny day, especially when heading back to work.

The bottom line: The food is so fresh, seasonal, and well-prepared and presented, it should be the star of any meal. But here you get the extra treat of a scene with lots of beautiful people front and center competing for attention. It's fun and energetic al fresco dining.

gciampa@projo.com / (401) 277-7266

CAV, 14 Imperial Place, Providence, 751-9164. With a name that's an acronym for cocktails, antiques and victuals, this eclectic restaurant in the old Imperial Knife building serves very fine food that takes inspiration from Asia to the Andes. Casually upscale. Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Open for lunch and dinner Mon-Sat, with Sun brunch and dinner. Parking available. V, MC, DIS, AE. EC accepted Sun-Thu. Highchairs. $$$.

Olga's Cup and Saucer and Providence Bread, 103 Point St., Providence. 831-6666. Casual dress. No reservations. Wheelchair accessible. Mon-Sat for breakfast and lunch, with brunch all day Saturday. Small parking lot, plus on-street parking. V, MC. Highchair. $$.

Venda Ravioli, DePasquale Square, 265 Atwells Ave., Providence. 421-9105. www.vendaravioli.com. Serving Italian specialties inside and outdoors only in the summer. Casual. Reservations. Bathrooms are not wheelchair accessible. Outdoor dining Monday through Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Dinner is Tuesday through Sunday from 6 to 10 p.m. for month of July only. Then open Tuesday through Saturday nights for the rest of summer. Indoor cafe open for breakfast, lunch, desserts and coffee Mon-Sat. On-street parking. V, MC, AE, DIS. Highchairs. $$.