01:00 AM EDT on Wednesday, June 28, 2006

BY GAIL CIAMPA
Journal Food Editor

Cookbook keywords at this time of year include grilling, outdoors and entertaining. I have a pile of books 3 feet tall with those concepts in mind. I've whittled them down to three which have recipes and concepts that might tickle in some way.

I like the simplicity of Grill It! Good Housekeeping Favorite Recipes (Sterling, $14.95). I adore the beauty on the pages of Williams-Sonoma Outdoor Entertaining (Free Press, $25.95). I admire the heft of The Big Book of Outdoor Cooking & Entertaining by Cheryl and Bill Jamison (William Morrow, $24.95), which has nearly 550 pages.

The Jamisons have won three James Beard awards for their cookbooks and are considered outdoor cooking experts. Perhaps because they live in Santa Fe, New Mexico, they include many appealing Mexican dishes among the hundreds of recipes.

Consider paletas. This version of popsicles is fruity and easy to make with an inexpensive mold from a kitchen store. Now, you don't grill them, but what a simple dessert to enjoy after a party paella (their pick for a shellfish dish for outdoor entertaining) or grilled onions or some other flavorful dish.

The beauty of The Big Book is in the numbers: 89 spice blend recipes; 76 sauces, salsas and relishes; 43 burgers; 33 steak recipes; 58 chicken dishes and 154 things to do with seafood.

Outdoor Entertaining is thin in comparison, but this party-themed book is beautiful and inspiring. Entire menus, from drink to dessert, are offered for beach-side picnics, poolside parties, family reunion barbecues and many other feasts. But there is also a midweek grilling chapter which is simpler than most.

Grill It is no nonsense and has few pictures, but all the recipes are triple tested and one imagines this is the book you might most often reach for in a pinch. The recipes push the flavor envelope -- with plum chutney paired or port and black currant paired with chicken thighs. This isn't your mother's Good Housekeeping. Rather it celebrates flavor in an international style while still offering basics for grilled chicken breasts, three ways.

There's no better time than July Fourth week to get started on some new outdoor grilling ideas for entertaining.

Here are some recipes from the books that reveal the depth of their offerings. Visit www.projo.com/food for more recipes.

PARTY PAELLA

For the grill:

1 pound medium shrimp (about 36), peeled and if you wish, de-veined

1/2 pound small squid, preferably about 3 inches long, with tentacles separated, cleaned, or 1/2 pound squid steaks

Flavorful olive oil

Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt, and freshly ground black pepper

16 hard-shell clams, such as cherrystones or littlenecks, or mussels, cleaned

1 pound (about 6 precooked Spanish chorizo sausage links or other cooked spicy sausage links

For the pan:

5 cups chicken stock

1 cup seafood stock or bottled clam juice

1 1/2 teaspoons crumbled saffron threads

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 medium red onion, diced

1 medium red bell pepper, diced

1 medium green bell pepper, diced

2 tablespoons minced garlic

3 cups short-grain rice, such as Bomba or Arborio

Coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt

3/4 cup briny green olives, black olives or a combination

1/2 cup slivered cooked artichokes or baby peas, fresh or unthawed frozen

1/3 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

Store-bought allioli (Spanish garlic mayonnaise), optional

Rub the shrimp and squid lightly with oil and season with salt and pepper. Cover them and let sit at room temperature, along with the clams, while you start the rice.

Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to high (1 to 2 seconds with the hand test). If you would like to cook the rice over the grill fire instead of on a side burner or stove top, you'll need the capability for medium-low heat as well.

Begin the rice. Stir the stocks and saffron together and let the mixture stand. Warm the oil in a 12- to 14-inch paella pan or skillet over medium heat. Stir in the onion, bell peppers and garlic and saute for several minutes, until the vegetables are just tender. Stir in the rice and continue cooking until translucent, about 4 to 5 minutes. Give the stocks a stir and pour over the rice. Add salt to taste. Cook the rice over medium-low heat uncovered without stirring, until the liquid is absorbed about 20 minutes. After about 15 minutes of cooking, insert a spoon or spatula straight down into the rice in several places to make sure that the rice is browning on the bottom in one spot before the liquid is absorbed in others. Shift the position of the pan over the heat if necessary. When done, the liquid should be absorbed and the rice should be tender but have the barest hint of crust on the bottom and sides.

While the rice cooks, grill the sausage links and seafood uncovered over high heat. Arrange the sausage and clams on the grill first. The sausage just needs to get a bit crusty on all sides, 3 or 4 minutes. Take it off when ready. The clams will be on the grill until they pop wide open, 8 to 10 minutes. Discard any that refuse to open within a couple of minutes of the others. Remove them from the grill carefully to avoid losing the juices in the shells. Place them over the hot rice once it is tender. Grill the shrimp and squid over high heat for a total of about 4 minutes, turning to cook on all sides. The tentacles will likely be ready first, so take them off as soon as they are firm. When done, the shrimp should be pink and opaque with lightly charred edges and the squid bodies opaque and firm but tender. Heap the shrimp over the rice. Slice the sausage and squid bodies into thin rounds and add them to the rice.

Stir the grilled ingredients into the rice and scatter with the olives, artichokes, and parsley. Serve immediately or cover with foil and keep warm in a low oven or on a corner of the grill. If using a paella pan, serve from the pan. If using a skillet, spoon out onto a platter and then serve. In either case, pass the allioli on the side if you wish. (Allioli is the Catalan version of aioli, the Provencal garlic mayonnaise.)

BARBECUED BRATS

12 4- to 6-ounce fresh bratwursts

Vegetable oil

1 to 2 teaspoons Oktoberfest Wurst Rub (recipe follows), optional

2 or more kinds of mustard

Fire up the smoker, bringing the temperature to 180 to 220 degrees.

Rub the brats lightly with oil and sprinkle them with rub if you wish. Let the brats sit at room temperature for 20 minutes.

Transfer the brats to the smoker and cook for 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours, depending on size, or until the skin of the sausage looks ready to pop. Serve hot with mustards. Serves 6.

From The Big Book of Outdoor Cooking & Entertaining

OKTOBERFEST WURST RUB

1/4 cup coarse salt, either kosher or sea salt

1/4 cup dry mustard

1/4 cup garlic powder

1/4 cup sweet paprika

1 tablespoon dried thyme

1 to 2 teaspoons crumbled dried sage

1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Stir the spices together in a medium bowl. Store covered in a cool, dark pantry for up to a few months. Rub on food as desired.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

From The Big Book of Outdoor Cooking & Entertaining

A vibrant Mexican version of Popsicles, paletas are much fruitier than their American counterparts. Invest in a set or two of expensive frozen Popsicle molds from a local kitchenware store or cookware department and you'll have the makings for a summer worth of cooling treats.

PALETAS

1/2 pint strawberries or 1 heaping cup ripe cantaloupe or honeydew melon chunks

1 to 2 teaspoons sugar

About 1 1/2 cups fruit nectar or juice, such as guava, mango, papaya or peach in a color contrasting with the berries or melon

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

Puree the strawberries with the sugar in a blender or food processor. Reserve.

Mix the fruit nectar with the lime juice. Using half of the fruit nectar, pour an equal amount into each mold. Tap the molds on the counter to eliminate any air pockets. Cover with the little lids that come with most molds. Insert sticks into the openings in the lids, unless the lids actually form their own handles. Freeze until lightly set, probably at least 30 minutes. Spoon the strawberry puree over the fruit nectar, distributing it among all the molds. Again tap the bottom of the mold and return to the freezer until lightly set, probably at least 30 minutes more. Then top it with the remaining fruit nectar, dividing it among the pops. Tap the bottom of the mold once more and freeze again until firmly set, at least 1 hour more.

To unmold, gently squeeze the bottom or sides of each pop with one hand while pulling on the handle with your other. If they don't come out easily, dunk the mold for just a second in hot water and try again. Serve immediately with paper napkins. Alternately stand up in one or more deep bowls surrounded by ice so that guests can help themselves. Serves 6.

From The Big Book of Outdoor Cooking & Entertaining

PASSION FRUIT SQUARES

Crust:

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, preferably unbleached

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into at least a dozen pieces, chilled

Passion fruit filling:

4 large eggs

1 1/3 cups sugar

1/4 cup all-purpose flour, preferably unbleached

Pinch of salt

1 1/4 cups passion fruit puree, fresh or thawed frozen

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Confectioners' sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish.

Prepare the crust, first combining the flour, sugar and salt in a food processor. Pulse to combine. Scatter the butter over the dry ingredients, then pulse as necessary to form a coarse meal. Using your fingers, press the crust flat into the prepared dish. Bake the crust for 20 to 22 minutes, until set and lightly golden.

Meanwhile, prepare the filling. Rinse out the food processor and break the eggs into it. Pulse several times, until lightly blended. Dump in the sugar and process for about 30 seconds, until the sugar has mostly dissolved into the eggs. Add half of the flour and pulse briefly, until it disappears, then repeat with the remaining flour and salt. Pour in the passion fruit puree and lemon juice and process for 10 to 20 seconds, until well blended.

When the crust is done, give the filling another good whir, then pour the filling over the hot crust. Reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees and return the pan to the oven. Bake for 16 to 20 more minutes, until the filing is nearly firm at its center. There should still be a touch of a wiggle when you move the dish.

Transfer the pan to a baking rack and let it cool. Cut into 2-inch squares or rectangles or in another shape or size if you wish. Wipe the knife as needed to assure clean cuts. Just before serving, plate the squares and with a fine mesh strainer, sprinkle with confectioners' sugar.

Makes about 2 dozen squares, serving 12.

From The Big Book of OUtdoor Cooking & Entertaining

LAYERED SHRIMP AND CRAB COCKTAIL

Vinaigrette:

3/4 cup (6 fluid ounces) olive oil

Grated zest of 1 lemon

1/4 cup (2 fluid ounces) fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano

Pinch of saffron threads

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Seafood Cocktail:

1 pound peeled cooked shrimp (prawns)

3 celery stalks, thinly sliced

3 green (spring) onions, including tender green tops, chopped

1 pound crabmeat, picked over for shell fragments

1 fennel bulb, trimmed, quartered lengthwise, cored and sliced crosswise paper-thin

6 thin lemon slices

6 small bay leaves

To make the vinaigrette, in a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon zest, lemon juice, mustard, garlic, oregano and saffron. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Wash and thoroughly dry six 1 1/2 cup (12 fluid ounce) canning jars with glass lids and wire bale closures. Place half of the shrimp in the bottom of the 6 jars, dividing them evenly. Top with half of the celery, green onions, crabmeat and fennel slices. Repeat the layers, starting with the shrimp and finishing with the fennel slices. Drizzle the vinaigrette into the jars, dividing it evenly. Garnish the top of each jar with a lemon slice and a bay leaf. Close the lids and refrigerate the jars for 2 hours or up to 12 hours to blend the flavors.

Just before serving, rock each jar back and forth a few times to distribute the vinaigrette. Serve cold directly from the jars. Serves 6.

From Outdoor Entertaining

LEMON-GARLIC POTATO PACKET

2 1/2 pounds red potatoes, not peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

12 garlic cloves, peeled

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon peel

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

Prepare outdoor grill for covered direct grilling over medium heat.

In a large bowl, toss potatoes, garlic, oil, lemon peel, salt and pepper until potatoes are evenly coated.

Layer two 30-by-18-inch sheets of heavy-duty foil to make double-thick sheet. Place potato mixture in center of stacked foil. Bring short ends of foil up and over potatoes; fold several times to seal. Fold remaining sides of foil several times to seal in juices.

Place packet on hot grill rack over medium heat and cook, turning packet over once halfway through grilling, until potatoes are fork-tender, 30 minutes.

Before serving, with kitchen shears, cut an "X" in top of foil packet to let steam escape, then carefully pull back foil to open.

Makes 8 servings.

Each serving: about 140 calories; 3 grams protein, 25 g carbohydrates, 4 g total fat (1 saturated), 0 cholesterol, 275 milligrams sodium.

From Grill It

GRILLED VEGETABLES VINAIGRETTE

1/2 cup olive oil

1/2 cup white wine vinegar

8 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 1/2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper

1 teaspoon sugar

2 medium yellow peppers, halved lengthwise, stem and seeds discarded

2 medium red peppers, halved lengthwise, stem and seeds discarded

4 small zucchini (about 6 ounces each), halved lengthwise

4 baby eggplants (about 4 ounces each), halved lengthwise

2 medium portobello mushrooms (about 4 ounces each), stems removed

Prepare outdoor grill for direct grilling over medium heat.

Prepare vinaigrette; In large bowl, with wire whisk, mix oil, vinegar, tarragon, salt, pepper and sugar. Add yellow and red peppers, zucchini, eggplants and mushrooms to bowl; toss to coat.

Place yellow and red peppers, zucchini, eggplant and mushrooms on hot grill rack over medium heat and grill, turning vegetables occasionally and brushing with some remaining vinaigrette, until vegetables are browned and tender when pierced with a fork, 10 to 15 minutes.

Once vegetables are cooked, cut each portobello into quarters. Serve vegetables with remaining vinaigrette.

Makes 8 servings.

Each serving: about 170 calories; 3 grams protein, 11 g carbohydrates, 14 g total fat (2 g saturated), 0 cholesterol, 445 milligrams sodium.

From Grill It

CUBAN MOJO PORK CHOPS

2 medium oranges

1/4 cup chopped onion

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1 chipotle chile in adobo plus 1 tablespoon adobo

4 garlic cloves

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1/4 teaspoon salt

4 bone-in pork loin chops, 3/4 inch thick (about 8 ounces each)

From oranges, grate 1/2 teaspoon peel and squeeze 1/2 cup juice.

In blender or food processor with knife blade attached, puree orange peel, onion, vinegar, chile, adobo and garlic until smooth.

Pour marinade into large airtight plastic bag; stir in orange and lime juices and salt. Add pork chops to marinade, turning to coat. Seal bag, pressing out excess air. Place bag on plate; let stand 15 minutes at room temperature or 1 hour in the refrigerator, turning several times.

Prepare outdoor grill for covered direct grilling over medium heat.

Remove chops from bag; pour marinade into 1-quart saucepan and reserve. Place chops on hot grill rack over medium heat. Cover grill and cook chops, turning once until browned outside and still slightly pink in the center, 12 to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat reserved marinade to boiling over high heat; boil 2 minutes.

Serve pork chop drizzled with cooked marinade.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving: about 395 calories, 42 grams protein, 10 g carbohydrates, 19 g total fat (7g saturated), 116 milligrams cholesterol, 410 mg sodium.

From Grill It

SHRIMP, CANTALOUPE AND FRESH HERB SKEWERS

2 tablespoons coconut cream, scooped from the top of an unshaken can of coconut milk

1 tablespoon Thai fish sauce

2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil

2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, plus sprigs for garnish

1 small red chile, seeded and minced

1 pound medium shrimp (prawns), peeled and de-veined (36 shrimp)

1/2 small cantaloupe

In a bowl large enough to accommodate the shrimp, stir together the coconut cream, fish sauce, lime juice, sesame oil, chives, chopped mint and chile. Set aside.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the shrimp and cook until they turn pink and begin to curl, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shrimp to the bowl holding the coconut cream mixture and toss to coat evenly. Let cool to room temperature, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 8 hours.

Cut the cantaloupe half into 6 wedges. Working with 1 wedge at a time, remove the rind and cut the wedge into 6 equal pieces. You should have a total of 36 cubes of cantaloupe, each about 3/4 inch wide.

Soak 36 wooden skewers in water to cover in a shallow baking dish for 30 minutes and then drain. Remove the shrimp from the refrigerator and drain in a colander. To assemble the skewers, thread 1 shrimp and 1 piece of cantaloupe into each skewer. Place the skewers in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve. (The shrimp can be skewered up to 4 hours in advance.)

To serve, arrange the skewers down the center of a narrow platter or tray, positioning them so that the skewer ends are easy to grasp. Garnish the platter with mint sprigs.

Makes 36 skewers; served 10 to 12.

From Outdoor Entertaining

POTATO FENNEL PUREE

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 fennel bulbs, quartered, cored and finely diced

2 1/2 cups (20 fluid ounces) chicken stock or reduced-sodium chicken broth

2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and quartered

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup (4 fluid ounces) half-and-half (half cream), heated

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

Freshly ground pepper

In a large pot over medium-high heat, warm the olive oil. Add the fennel and saute until translucent and golden, about 15 minutes. Add the stock, potatoes and 1 teaspoon salt. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, cover and cook until the potatoes are soft when pierced with a knife, about 30 minutes.

Drain the potatoes and fennel in a colander, return to the pot, and immediately mash with a potato masher. Add the butter and slowly pour in the half-and-half while stirring with a wooden spoon. Add the mayonnaise and continue to stir until light and creamy. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serves 4.

From Outdoor Entertaining