01:00 AM EDT on Thursday, October 20, 2005

BY GAIL CIAMPA
Journal Food Editor

What a divine surprise awaits on Douglas Pike in Smithfield.

A new restaurant, d. Carlo Trattoria, offers an oasis of charm with servings of mostly Italian specialties -- and a fabulous grilled pizza -- in a modern, sophisticated setting.

It's the first collaboration for a team that has served in some of Providence's best restaurants. Denis Thibeault (the D portion of the restaurant name) and Carlo Slaughter have worked together for years in front-of-the-house positions. That's restaurant lingo for non-kitchen jobs such as manager and server. They've been at Raphael Bar Risto, Cafe Nuovo and most recently with Jaime D'Oliveira at Mill's Tavern, where Slaughter was general manager and Thibeault a server.

Their new trattoria reflects the cool sophistication and fine cuisine for which those Providence spots are known. In fact, D'Oliveira's wife, Kim Nathanson D'Oliveira, an upscale restaurant designer, helped with the color palette, Thibeault said.

But make no mistake, while they've taken the best of the city, Slaughter and Thibeault seek not to be a carbon copy of any of those upscale urban places. Rather, they have created a trattoria where the food is a bit more casual but the spot still lovely and the service inviting.

They've also made competitive pricing an issue.

No entree costs more than $18.95 -- most are under $15 -- and a couple could dine in the $50 range. With today's food costs, that is not easy, or usual, for a new restaurant. The menu was designed to keep prices down. There are no big steaks, but instead overnight braised short ribs ($17.95), a pork porterhouse ($16.95) and veal osso bucco ($18.95, the most expensive item).

With the restaurant bathed in comfortable shades of pumpkin and beige, my husband and I felt warmed just stepping through the door. A half wall sets off the bar area, which features two large flat screen televisions. I'll admit to peeking up from my table in the dining room section to spy a score on the Monday Night Football game.

They know their gnocchi

In the kitchen is executive chef Chris Kattawar, who also came from Mill's Tavern. Slaughter is also cooking, said Thibeault in a later interview.

They're doing all the right things.

We started with fried risotto balls ($8.95) and a grilled margherita pizza ($8.95), but we could have easily chosen an antipasti, mussels, or skewered shrimp over cannellini beans.

Our choices were perfect. Four stacked balls of rice were deep fried, but you wouldn't know it by the clean flavor. Inside the crisp coating was rice blended with bits of Parma prosciutto, peas and mozzarella. They were topped with a pleasant marinara. The same sauce made our grilled pizza pop. The crust was outstanding -- thin, tender and crisp.

Mozzarella and basil completed the perfect pizza topping trio. We left four slices, not wanting to fill ourselves up. Thanks to the topping blend, the slices tasted just as good the next day.

Though tempted by the osso bucco and the shortribs, which are served with roasted garlic mashed potatoes and sauteed rabe, we opted for pasta comfort food.

I couldn't resist the gnocchi -- I never can -- but I especially like the interpretation here, with the dish baked and blending grilled chicken. Both the pasta and poultry were to be savored in a white reggiano cream sauce. Wild mushrooms gave an added meatiness to the dish, which also had leeks and thinly sliced tomatoes.

My husband's sea scallops were not only flavorful but beautifully plated. Fried leeks leapt from the dish, which began with creamy wild mushroom risotto and was topped with four pan-seared sea scallops, fresh and tender. (Depending on the size of the scallops, there will be either three or four, Slaughter said.) As a final touch, the dish was finished with truffle butter. Bravissimo!

A basket of homemade focaccia bread was warm and perfect for capturing every last bit of my creamy cheese sauce.

The wine list is Italian-driven, but there are many California wine selections, as well. We were both in the mood for a palate-cleansing Sauvignon Blanc and enjoyed the Rock Rabbit from California.

The restaurant is on Route 7 in a strip mall that houses a gym and a second restaurant, Faial, to which it is adjacent. The two share the restrooms in a hall between them.

Terrific tiramisu

Our server, Carol, was at the ready throughout the meal and provided us correct information when we asked which desserts were house-made. You'd be shocked, or maybe you wouldn't, at how many times servers get this wrong.

When she named the tiramisu and molten lava cake out of the six choices (all $5.95), we were sold. Both were terrific.

The tiramisu had none of that sickly sweet taste that comes with the packaged variety that many restaurants serve. Rather it was fresh and bright, with layers of sponge cake and just enough mascarpone cheese.

The lava cake was of the dark chocolate variety, with a moist cake and warm ganache and topped with vanilla-bean ice cream. It was a perfect size to enjoy after a hearty meal.

So there you are. There is no twist at the end. From pizza to dessert, we enjoyed it all.

Serving an expertly prepared meal in a comfortable setting at manageable prices, Thibeault and Slaughter have learned their lessons well. The 'burbs are lucky to have them.

d. Carlo Trattoria, 970 Douglas Pike, Smithfield, (401) 349-4979. Dressy casual. Handicapped accessible. Highchairs. MC, V, DS, AE, DC. Lunch served Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Monday-Thursday 5-9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5-10:30 p.m. Lunch dishes $4.95-$9.95; dinner appetizers $7.95 to $10.95; entrees $8.95 to $18.95; desserts $5.95. Fourteen wines by the glass $6-7; bottles mostly in the $22 to $30 range.

Bill of fare

2 glasses Rock Rabbit Sauvignon Blanc ......$14

Fried risotto balls ..........$8.95

Baked gnocchi with grilled chicken .....$13.95

Sea scallops with risotto ..............$15.95

Tiramisu................................$5.95

Molten lava cake .......................$5.95

Total food and drink ...................$55.80

Tax ....................................$4.46

Tip ....................................$11.50

Total check ............................$71.78