When I heard that a local pizzeria had won the Northeast Region Pizza Challenge in Atlantic City, N.J., last month, I knew the Cranston spot must go to the top of my restaurant review list.

Who can resist the idea that so very close is a pizza judged the best in the Northeast? Not me.

So off to Plainfield Pike and Neo Pizza I went to find this pie that had defeated all those New York shops (probably owned by Yankees fans) with a white pizza that originated here in our little corner of the world.

One look at the big, thin, crusty pies on the counter - where they sell three varieties by the slice - and I saw I was in the shadow of pizza greatness.

The classic Margherita had a thin, crispy crust puffed golden at the edges. A perfect amount of cheese, cooked just to the point of melting, was spread end to end. A bright red sauce was layered in proper proportion with cheese. A sprinkling of fresh basil fragrantly serves as the simple garnish. There was no pool of oil, no browned cheese, and no waiting if I opted for a slice.

But I'd brought two friends along, and we were committed to try the Gian, the winning pizza variety from the hands of Charlie Adamonis Jr.

His Gian is made with that signature thin crispy crust, a blend of three cheeses - mozzarella, Cheddar and Parmesan - pancetta, spinach, olive oil and fresh garlic. We ordered a large ($13.75) at the counter from Peggy Adamonis, who owns the shop with her pizza-making husband.

When she delivered it to the table 10 minutes later, the aroma captured us as we can only assume it captivated the judges. The bacony fragrance is delicate and spicy, and so beautifully balanced by the scent of the garlic and other herbs.

Pancetta is an Italian bacon cured with salt and spices, but not smoked, so it lends a ton of flavor without overwhelming everything else. The three-cheese blend is mild, which works nicely. The spinach adds a pleasant texture. (In these E. coli-scare days, it's frozen.) The garlic and oil provide a light base for all this goodness.

The sum of these ingredients on the crisp crust was perfection. Unlike bacon or sausage, pancetta is moderately flavored, while the garlic and oil enhance the cheese flavor. And with the greens, it is a complete meal.

The judges commented on the "unique mouthwatering flavor" of the Gian, and each bite does demand another. The blend of flavors is sublime.

Other winners, too

Somehow, we were able to pull ourselves away from the Gian and try the other items we ordered: a Margherita pizza ($8.75 for large), a Chicken Parmigiana panini sandwich ($6.50) and a spinach calzone ($4.75).

The Margherita is a lovely version of the classic, made with Adamonis' own sauce, light and sweet with fresh tomatoes, and that same three-cheese blend. He gets his dough from Buono's Italian Bakery in Providence and rolls it thin and tender.

The chicken parm sandwich can't be done as a sub because a Subway shop shares the same plaza with Neo, and their lease forbids any other subs to be made there. But I think this works to Neo's benefit, because Adamonis has creatively come up with sandwiches served on a nice focaccia bread. The chicken was moist and lightly breaded and the cheese satisfying. The sauce was fresh and bright. I liked the concept of the focaccia, with rosemary and oil flavors, paired with the chicken.

There are also calzones, and our delightfully stuffed spinach, pepperoni and cheese variety disappeared quicker than you can say lunch to go.

Everything is offered piacere, as you like it, be it pizza toppings or sandwich combinations.

We knocked back a couple of Oranginas, the refreshing Italian orange soda ($1.50 a can). But soon Neo will have wine and beer, as a license was approved.

There are just half a dozen tables in the neat, clean storefront. Neo does a brisk take-out business.

Pizza ambassadors

In an interview later, Adamonis said he competed against 39 chefs from the region, including a repeat winner from Staten Island. There were no other Rhode Island entrants, said Peggy Adamonis. Most were from New York or New Jersey.

Adamonis learned to make pizza from Mario Micheletti, owner of Tyler Point Grille in Barrington. Micheletti and his wife, Cheryl, opened Neo almost two years ago, but found it too difficult to run two restaurants. They sold the business to the Adamonises, who previously owned Mark's Deli in downtown Providence.

Neo and Adamonis will represent Pizza Today magazine, sponsors of the Atlantic City contest, and will compete for best pizza in America in Las Vegas in March.

They have a great chance, thanks to Gian.

gciampa@projo.com / (401) 277-7266

Bill of Fare

A dinner for two at Neo Pizza might look like this:

2 cans Orangina . . . $3.00

Large Gian pizza5 . . . $13.75

Total food and drink . . . $16.75

Tip . . . $2.50

Tax . . . $1.34

Total . . . $20.04

Neo Pizza, 2244 Plainfield Pike, Cranston, (401) 942-4636. Very casual with counter service and a few tables. Delivery offered. Free parking lot. Handicapped accessible. No highchair. MC, V. Open Tuesday to Thursday 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sunday noon to 9 p.m. Pizza by the slice $2-$2.75; salads $3.75-$5.75; wraps and panini sandwiches $5.75-$6.95; calzones $4.75-$6.50; drinks $1.25-$1.50. Beer and wine license approved but not available yet.

The menu

This restaurant's menu:

projo.com/food/menus