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Winter farmers’ market is heating up with fresh, local products and fun for all

12:32 PM EDT on Wednesday, March 11, 2009

By Gail Ciampa

Journal Food Editor

The Wintertime Farmers’ Market at the Hope Artiste Village in Pawtucket had more than 1,000 shoppers at its first day back in November and has been growing since. Three dozen vendors offer their produce and wares.

The Providence Journal / Glenn Osmundson

Everybody loves a farmers’ market with all those green vegetables and fresh produce. But tell the truth: Have you ever stayed at one for more than 30 minutes? Fifteen minutes?

You conduct your business, marvel at the local farmers and go on your way.

Well, it’s not like that at Farm Fresh Rhode Island’s Wintertime Farmers’ Market at the Hope Artiste Village in Pawtucket. Here food — local food — is a happening. There are crowds and crowds of people filing into the old mill building with shopping bags and kids, and dogs, in tow. They counted 1,100 visitors on the opening day of the market back in November, said Farm Fresh director Noah Fulmer. No one would be surprised to speculate that the number has risen in recent weeks.

The lineup of vendors numbers three dozen. Just walking the long gauntlet of their delectable tables can keep even the easily distracted enthralled for an hour or more. And time will fly because you’re having fun.

Many of the tenants in the building, from artists to dance studios, are open during the 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. market, offering more to see and do. There’s music, too.

The energy within the beautiful brick walls is just one small part of the story.

There’s the exceptional diversity of offerings. They range from local grass-fed beef (including all natural hot dogs and beef shanks) raised in Portsmouth by Mike Victor to the gourmet salad mix grown in greenhouses in Exeter by Jeffrey Kamminga for his Baby Greens subscription service. There’s Matunuck Oyster Farms selling clams, Harmony Hill Farm of Glocester with farm fresh eggs and Poblano Farm offering its chipotle salsa made from tomatoes and peppers grown on the farm in South Kingstown. Seven Stars Bakery and Olga’s Cup and Saucer both sell bread and pastry.

New Harvest Coffee breaks tradition and brings out their espresso machine to make lattes with their coffee beans roasted there in the mill. Matt Jennings of La Laiterie at Farmstead makes grilled cheese sandwiches, and Tina’s Caribbean serves baked empanadas for lunch, too. There are gluten-free cakes and pastries from Chris’s Gourmet Treats of Plymouth, Mass., and dog treats from Jack’s Snacks of Pawtucket. Fresh herbs come from Allen Farms of Westport and candy and fudge from Ocean State Chocolates, formerly of Federal Hill but which currently has no retail store. Pat’s Pastured sells poultry, pork and beef from Saunderstown, and Stoney Hill Cattle Farm of Charlestown sells its beef, pork and fresh eggs.

There’s more, but you get the picture.

The professional connections made at the market are yet another amazing byproduct of the event. This being the off-season for farmers, they have time they don’t have in the summer. Professional chefs, just like home cooks, are learning how much artisan work and farming is going on in their environs. The farmers are creating a new market for themselves as people discover them, said Fulmer. This union of local farms and producers and chefs is an important link in the sustainable movement supported by Farm Fresh.

On the last Saturday of February, Brian Mansfield, chief of culinary development for the Newport Restaurant Group, was at the market with teams from Castle Hill Inn, the Mooring, 22 Bowen, Trio and Waterman Grille. The chefs had $100 each to buy local goods for specials in their restaurants that night. They went from table to table considering cheeses, meats, eggs, herbs and greens. The Mooring made ravioli with Narragansett Creamery’s ricotta made in Providence. Castle Hill made jonnycakes with cornmeal from Kenyon’s Grist Mill in Usquepaugh, and Waterman Grille used Kenyon’s blue cornmeal for crusted Boston Blue Cod. The Boathouse flavored several dishes with Marcia’s Chutneys made in Warwick.

The success of the market, which is pulling in people from Boston and Cape Cod, where there is no equivalent, is a welcome surprise to Fulmer and Farm Fresh. Though it was only supposed to go through April, there is talk of running the market through May, Fulmer said. Farmers especially can’t count on good weather in May, and the business boost from market sales can make a huge economic difference to the businesses.

“Having a good year-round income is good for the farmers,” said Fulmer.

And good for those who desire they keep producing local food.

The Wintertime Farmers’ Market is at 1005 Main St., Pawtucket, Saturdays only. Farm Fresh just extended the hours to begin in April with a 10 a.m. start time.

gciampa@projo.com

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