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A new identity of Ives: There’s another world springing up on the East Side of Providence

01:00 AM EDT on Wednesday, September 24, 2008

By Gail Ciampa

Journal Food Editor

Ives Street is a stone’s throw from busy Wickenden Street on the East Side of Providence but it might as well be on the other side of the world for its differences. This is a street just beginning to find its identity with eateries, coffeehouses, a bakery and market joined by some pretty new spots.

George Manyan invested in Ives Street back in 1994 when he bought the building at No. 167. A year ago he opened a deli that serves breakfast and lunch on the first floor.

“I feel like its going to be a new food destination,” said the retired Providence teacher and principal.

His feelings were echoed by the owners of a new noodle house and brothers who opened a coffee shop. Still to come is a new barbecue spot that is under construction.

The first spot on our tasty tour is neither on Ives nor Wickenden but rather is almost a bridge between the two at 8 Governor St., close to Wickenden. It’s Reflections Café, which feels very much like an old-fashioned, folksy coffeehouse. For six years, they’ve opened the doors daily at 7 a.m. (8 on weekends) and stayed open late on Friday and Saturday nights.

Tim Lambert, one of the owners, is most proud of the fact that they can make 75, count ’em 75, different flavor lattes. There are interesting ones like a Snickers’ latte that tastes like the candy or a Mexican Mélange that includes tastes of hazelnut, banana, coconut and amaretto.

The food is beyond the norm for a café with breakfast parfaits looking pretty and healthy. They bake muffins and scones and other pastries as well. Lunch includes salads. They bake cookies and sell a variety of desserts and offer Wi-Fi.

How wonderful for football season to have Wings to Go there at 77 Ives St. This casual take-out spot has a few TVs in place for those who choose to eat in. There’s lots of varieties of wings from which to choose and non-poultry lovers can go for seafood, including fried clam strips or Buffalo shrimp.

Jumping right on a popular fusion trend are Lisa and Mustafa Kusco who opened Noodles 102 at 102 Ives St. less than a year ago. They serve lunch and dinner six days a week, closing on Sunday. Lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., while dinner is 4:30 to 8:30 with takeout until 9. The restaurant is BYOB.

This Asian noodle house offers many vegetarian dishes in addition to bowls and bowls of noodles topped with chicken, shrimp or beef. You can customize your dish by noodle (egg, pho, udon, rice or wonton) and then add on the meat or veggie. They also offer claypot dishes with fragrant jasmine rice paired with fresh vegetables. Diners choose a protein (if desired) and then a sauce. Those include Thai curry coconut, Szechuan barbecue, ginger basil scallion or ginger oyster sauce. Starters include lettuce wraps, dumplings, edamame or miso soup. All the sauces are made fresh everyday and the noodles are made fresh by a vendor in Cranston.

Mustafa Kusco is Turkish so they offer distinctive Turkish coffee as well as candied treats.

The décor is clean and modern in red and black and there are but 20 seats. Just about every dish is under $10.

“It’s quick food but not fast food,” said Lisa Kusco.

The Eagle Super Market, and owner Cidalia Galvao, is the dean of the street having been there for 19 years at No. 117. A native of the Azores, Galvao specializes in Portuguese products. When she opened up, one couldn’t easily get things like chourico, pig’s feet, fresh cheese and sweet breads just anywhere. There is a small deli and religious icons.

Pedro and Eduarda Ferreira have one of the two oldest businesses on the street having opened their Silver Star Bakery in 1989 at 150 Ives St. They sold it in 2002, but recently bought it back when the new owner didn’t make a go of the demanding business. The aromas are intoxicating from this bakery with treats piled high in the display cases. From Portuguese sweet breads to custards to puff pastries and white bean cakes, they have the categories all covered. They also do yogurt cakes and make a few sandwiches with their rolls. They are open 5 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily except for Sunday when they close at 2 p.m.

George’s Deli Kitchen at 167 Ives St. represents the second career of George Manyan. He opened Dec. 5. The breakfast menu includes two egg meals with home fries, toast and bacon, sausage or ham for $4.50; build-your own omelets for $5 as well as pancakes, French toast and egg sandwiches.

George’s serves a variety of sandwiches that represent many cuisines. There are meatball grinders, jerk-spiced Cubano sandwiches, chicken burritos, pastrami, corned beef, tuna or seafood salad and even liverwurst and Reubens.

There in the kitchen is a new chef and Culinary Institute of American grad Sean Beplet.

The deli has a few tables and may expand the hours as business grows, but for now they serve from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Victoria’s Pizzeria at 184 Ives St. is run with gusto by Georges Aidamouni.

“I am lucky to be on a street with a lot of students,” he said, explaining he recently took over the restaurant which specializes in not only pizza, but subs made with either wheat or white bread. Though he is Lebanese he’s also making Portuguese specialties and sells crab Rangoon as a special. He also sells Warwick Ice Cream for dessert.

There are a few outside seats as well as indoor dining. But Victoria’s, named for his daughter whose portrait hangs behind the counter, also delivers. It is open daily from 11 a.m. until 2 a.m.

New to the street is Malachi’s, a café and espresso bar specializing in organic and fair-trade products and organic shade-grown coffees. Brothers Joe and Josh Sousa opened up in the middle of August. Shade-grown products offer a better quality of coffee but less yield for the farmer so it is a more exclusive product.

By selling fair-trade coffees they have committed to selling products for which farmers around the globe are paid a fair price. The concept blends components of sustainability (growing things that enrich, not drain or pollute the land); artisan products (hand-tended rather than mass-produced); organics (not using chemicals and pesticides); and social responsibility.

Malachi’s is open daily from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. at 134 Ives St. and also offers bagels and muffins during the breakfast hours. There are vegan options and sandwiches for lunch and dinner.

Fox Point culture walk1

The Rhode Island Historical Society hosts A Cultural Walk through Fox Point on Saturday, Oct. 4, from 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. It doesn’t include Ives Street but it’s a great chance to learn about the changing character of this Providence neighborhood from its first Colonial settlements through the waves of Irish, then Portuguese and Cape Verdean immigration, to the impacts of urban and highway development today.

The tour route will focus on and include three active churches in the area: St. Joseph’s, Sheldon Street Baptist, and Our Lady of the Rosary. Reservations are requested. The tour begins at Reflections Café, 8 Governor St., and costs $10. Reserve by calling Dalila Goulart at (401) 331-8575 ext. 45 or e-mail programs@rihs.org.

gciampa@projo.com