The Providence Journal / Sandor Bodo

Josie wrote:

“I am a big fan of Spiga in Cranston, and I usually try to sample something different each time I go. The last time I had the Veal Spezzatino. It was excellent! My family is Italian and I’ve been spoiled with the best homemade spezzatino around, but this really surprised me at how great it was. I’d love to make this version at home. Can you get the recipe from Chef Walter? I would so much appreciate it.”

Veal Spezzatino is tender veal stew according to chef Walter Potenza, proprietor of the new Spiga Trattoria, 162 Mayfield Ave., Cranston.

The word “spezzatino” derives from spezzare — to break, he said, referring to chunks of veal pieces. There are numerous versions of this dish, mostly from southern Italy, where the addition of tomato is prevalent, and the amount used is related to the different regions, he added.

Potenza’s version comes from Abruzzo, along the coast of the Adriatic.

Marinating the meat in milk allows the fiber to soften and mellows the texture, he said.

You’ll find the recipe accessible for home cooks as Potenza offers cooking classes at his Walter’s Ristorante d’Italia on Federal Hill in Providence. Learn more at www.waltersonfederalhill.com.

VEAL SPEZZATINO1

VEAL SPEZZATINO

2 pounds Bobed (young veal cut in chunks, use veal neck strip)

2 cups whole cow’s milk

4 bay leaves

4 tablespoons vegetable oil

1/4 cup carrots, brunoise (small dice)

1/4 cup onion, brunoise

1/4 cup celery, brunoise

2 tablespoons parsley, chopped

1/2 cup white wine (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo or Frascati)

1 cup fresh tomato puree

8 medium size mushrooms, cut in fours

1/4 cup fresh or frozen peas

1 sprig fresh rosemary

1 cup of gnocchi

Kosher salt and white pepper to taste

In a medium bowl, cover veal with milk and bay leaves. Leave in the refrigerator for 5 to 6 hours. Drain and reserve half of the milk and the bay leaves. Set aside.

In a medium-size saucepan, heat oil for 1 minute. Add carrots, onion and celery. Incorporate well with a wooden spoon. Cook on medium heat for about 8 minutes, until the vegetables turn glossy and onion look transparent. Incorporate parsley, stir, and continue cooking for 2 minutes. This is called battuto or foundation for the dish.

Place veal into the sauce pan, blend well with the vegetable battuto and continue cooking. Natural water will come out of the veal, as it begins to turn to a grayish color, about 5 minutes. Add wine and cook for additional 5 minutes.

Pour tomato purée and reserved milk and bay leaves into the pot. Continue cooking for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. The liquid makes the veal tender and slightly thicker. Add mushrooms and peas, and cook for additional 5 minutes to incorporate their flavors. Pace rosemary sprig into the pot, but do not stir, just submerge under the sauce. Set spezzatino aside for 20 minutes.

Remove rosemary and bay leaves.

Serve spezzatino hot accompanied with gnocchi or similar dumplings.

Chef’s notes: The oil from the rosemary infuses the sauce without having the unpleasant taste of the needles. Bobed veal is available at specialty veal stores such as Fed-Rick Veal Company on Federal Hill, Providence.

Serves four.

gciampa@projo.com