BLACK-EYED PEA SOUP WITH GREENS AND HAM

1 cup fresh or frozen black-eyed peas

8 ounces mustard greens, torn in bite-size pieces (8 cups packed)

8 ounces collards, torn in bite-size pieces (8 cups packed)

2 tablespoons bacon drippings or olive oil

1/2 cup finely diced ham (preferably country ham)

1 large yellow onion, coarsely chopped

3 medium carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped

2 medium stalks celery, chopped

1 large clove garlic, minced

8 cups (2 quarts) chicken broth

1 large whole bay leaf

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon black pepper, or to taste

Place the black-eyed peas in a large, heavy saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by 3 inches. Bring to a boil, cover, remove from heat and let stand 2 hours. (If using frozen black-eyed peas, skip this step.)

Drain the peas and return to the pan. Again cover with cold water by 3 inches, bring to a boil and simmer uncovered about 30 minutes. (Frozen peas will take less time.) Drain well and set aside.

Half fill a saucepot with cold water and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add mustard greens and collards and boil, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Drain the greens and plunge into ice water to set the color.

Heat the bacon drippings or oil over medium-high heat in the same large pot. Add the ham and brown 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, add the onion, carrots, celery and garlic and sauté 8 to 10 minutes, or until limp.

Add the broth, bay leaf, salt, pepper and the reserved black-eyed peas and greens and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Discard bay leaf, taste and adjust salt and pepper if needed before serving.

— From A Love Affair With Southern Cooking by Jean Anderson (William Morrow, 2007)