Ritz mock apple pie contains not a single apple but does contain 36 Ritz crackers, sugar, water, cinnamon, butter or margarine, cream of tartar, and lemon juice, all of which is baked in a crust.

MCT / Bill Hogan

Bac-Os, Quorn Dogs, Cool Whip, near beer, sea legs, fish balls, Tang and Vienna sausage.

That’s a pretty vile menu. But it’s great food for thought for anyone who wishes to consider the existence of food impersonators in our midst.

Why must man make mock food? Especially since it tends to be eminently more mockable than the food being mocked? (Take mock lobster — please — if you need a good example; one version is made from soybeans, then molded and painted lobster red, and sold at May Wah Vegetarian food in New York’s Chinatown, along with a lot of other moxamples.)

“Because we can,” said John L. Stanton, chairman of the department of food marketing at St. Joseph’s University in Philadelphia.

It seems like the most obvious answer.

“Man has always sought to create, whether it’s an atom bomb or a cheaper piece of meat. If we can make meat that is cheaper, we will,” he said.

And according to Australian food historian Janet Clarkson, who is proprietor of the site, theoldfoodie.com, as long as there have been cooks there have been foods made to “look and sometimes taste like other foods,” as she puts it.

Mock food is one of Clarkson’s favorite topics, and her period of interest falls somewhere between the time man grew bored with mere hunting and gathering and the days when he began full-throttle synthesizing, processing or preparing such food and drink as turkey bacon, soy milk, city chicken, Cremora, Cool Whip, cheese-food “singles,” movie popcorn “topping,” mock tuna salad made of tofu with soy mayo, and burgers made of nuts and vegetable-based bolts.

She pointed out some of the reasons mock food was made in the past:

“To deceive. Often this means to impress. Of course it backfires badly if the ruse is discovered,” she said, offering the Samuel Pepys diary entry for Friday 6 January 1659/60 as an example: “I went home and took my wife and went to my cosen, Thomas Pepys, and found them just sat down to dinner, which was very good; only the venison pasty was palpable beef, which was not handsome.”

How embarrassing.

Clark also mentions:

•Faux food created for religious or other ethical reasons, such as the fake meat served at Lent throughout the ages.

•Faux food for fun, as in illusion foods (“in medieval times . . . a meatloaf called yrchouns, meaning either urchins or hedgehogs — they were stuck all over with slivered almonds to indicate spines. No one was fooled but everyone enjoyed the artistry”).

•Faux food as a substitute in times of scarcity (“During the American Civil War, particularly, the range of (coffee) substitutes was creative in the extreme,” said Clarkson: e.g., acorn, chicory and okra coffees).

All these reasons still exist in the world of food fakery today. And so do some of the foods: marzipan fruit, an ancient example of mock food as pure whimsy, is still around and as adorable as ever; near beer, drunk by teetotalers and certain religious groups, is a more palatable version of small beer, drunk by children and just about everybody else in early American history, because the water was risky.

And today we also have fake food for health/diet/intolerance reasons (Egg Beaters, Tofurky, Lactaid, NutraSweet/Splenda, etc.). Not to mention replication/simulation -for-profit reasons.

“For me,” Clarkson said, “the interesting question for each mock food is: Was it intended to deceive?”

If so, it’s best to be clear about it from the get-go if you’re going to be a successful food faker.

“Foods that try to trick people always fail,” Stanton said. One recent example is Kraft guacamole. In 2006 a woman sued the company for fraud after noticing that it didn’t taste very “avocadoey.” In fact, it contained less than 2 percent of the fruit. But unlike, say, peanut butter, which laws have decreed must contain 90 percent peanuts, guacamole, a relatively new staple in the American diet, had no such requirements. Kraft claimed it intended to be selling only a “flavored” dip, and the company subsequently changed the name of the stuff to Dip-Guacamole Flavor.

We’ll willingly accept the poser as just as good as the pose-ee, as long as the poser isn’t pointedly lying to us. NutraSweet has never pretended to be sugar. So we add it to our coffee without complaint or much suspicion. But if margarine-makers made claims to butterhood, it would certainly have been more vilified than it is today.

“Who’s to say, by the way, that whipped cream is better than Cool Whip, just because it came along first?” Stanton added. And a lot of mock food eaters feel the same way about their mock tuna salad, soy mayonnaise, “I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter!,” mock turtles (the soup and the turtleneck, actually), Miracle Whip and mocktails.

One of the most familiar and iconic examples of mock food, of course, is benevolent rather than malign: the Ritz Mock Apple Pie, which contains not a single apple but does contain 36 Ritz crackers, sugar, water, cinnamon, butter or margarine, cream of tartar, and lemon juice, all of which is baked in a crust.

According to Jean Anderson, in her “American Century Cookbook,” Ritz’s pie, which was introduced to the American public in 1934, smack in the middle of the Great Depression, has since become the most requested recipe at the Nabisco company.

A recent Associated Press story pointed out that in the United States the demand for fake food — specifically fake meats — is on the rise, especially those made from soy. (The Soyfoods Association of America Web site reports that sales increased to nearly $4 billion from $300 million between 1992 and 2007.) And at a time when food prices also are on the rise, worldwide hunger is front-page news, and we have dangerously overfished the ocean, it seems unsurprising that people might have a growing desire for foods that put less stress on the food chain. (Especially the animal-rights organization PETA, which recently offered $1 million to the first person to make the first in-vitro chicken meat and sell it to the public by June 30, 2012.)

A German Internet-based project called Future Food (futurefood.org) is already making plans to accommodate that desire. Kurt Schmidinger said that Future Food’s focus is on the “possibilities for replacing animal products with . . . vegetarian meats, non-dairy drinks and egg replacements” as well as “in-vitro meat, or cultured meat,” a process that he describes as, “for the time being, still a dream.”

Fake foods are a venerable part of our past, and they’re growing in the present, so it seems natural to wonder: Are we headed for a future of fake and simulated food?

Philosophically speaking, if it’s real to you, it’s real food.

How times have changed1

There was a time when veal cost less than chicken — especially in cities, where chicken coops were a rarity but meatpacking businesses were not. This recipe for mock drumsticks originated around 1936 — some say around Pittsburgh.

RITZ MOCK APPLE PIE1

RITZ MOCK APPLE PIE

Pastry for 9-inch double-crust pie

36 Ritz Crackers, coarsely broken (about 1 3/4 cups)

2 cups sugar

2 teaspoons cream of tartar

1 3/4 cups water

Grated zest of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Roll out half of the pastry; place in a 9-inch pie plate. Place cracker crumbs in crust; set aside.

Mix sugar and cream of tartar in a medium saucepan; gradually stir in water until well blended. Heat to a boil on high heat. Reduce heat to low; simmer 15 minutes. Add lemon peel and juice; cool.

Pour syrup over cracker crumbs. Dot with butter; sprinkle with cinnamon. Roll out remaining pastry; place over pie. Trim; seal and flute edges. Slit top crust to allow steam to escape. Bake until crust is crisp and golden, 30-35 minutes; cool completely.

Makes: 10 servings

Nutrition information: Per serving: 351 calories, 33 percent of calories from fat, 13 gram fat, 3 g saturated fat, 6 milligrams cholesterol, 58 g carbohydrates, 2 g protein, 256 mg sodium, 1 g fiber

CITY CHICKEN1

CITY CHICKEN

1 1/2 pounds veal steak, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes

1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour

1 large egg, beaten slightly

1/2 cup dry bread or cracker crumbs

3 tablespoons bacon drippings or butter

1 1/2 cups milk or combination of milk and chicken broth

Heat oven to 325 degrees. Sprinkle veal cubes with salt and pepper to taste. Place four to five cubes on a wooden skewer to create a “drumstick.” Repeat with remaining cubes. Place 1/2 cup of the flour on a plate. Beat the egg slightly in a shallow bowl. Place crumbs on another plate. Roll each skewer in flour. Coat with egg. Coat with crumbs. Let stand 30 minutes.

Heat bacon drippings in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat; brown drumsticks on all sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer drumsticks to a greased, 8-inch-square baking dish, reserving the drippings in the skillet. Cover drumsticks with foil; bake until tender, about 1 1/2 hours.

Reheat the drippings over medium heat; sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons of the flour. Cook, whisking, 2-3 minutes; gradually whisk in milk. Cook until thickened, about 2 minutes; season to taste. Pour into gravy boat; serve with drumsticks.

Makes: 4 servings

Nutrition information:

Per serving: 400 calories, 17 grams fat, 7 g saturated fat, 194 milligrams cholesterol, 18 g carbohydrates, 41 g protein, 515 mg sodium, 1 g fiber