1 chicken (3 pounds)

Salt and pepper

1 head garlic, broken into unpeeled cloves

2 tablespoons unsalted butter or vegetable oil

1/4 pound bacon, diced

18 pearl onions, peeled

1/3 pound mushrooms, halved if large

1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil

4 medium waxy potatoes, peeled and diced

A generous handful of chopped fresh parsley

Season chicken inside and out with salt and pepper. Stuff with garlic cloves and truss.

Heat half the butter or oil in a casserole over medium heat. Add bacon and onions and cook until bacon is crisp and onions soft, about 15 minutes. Remove and set aside. Add mushrooms to pan and cook about 5 minutes. Add to the onions. Add a tablespoon of olive oil to the pot and cook diced potatoes until brown, about 25 minutes. Remove and set aside with the other garnishes.

Add remaining butter and more oil if necessary to the casserole, heat until foaming, and brown chicken well, about 5 minutes per side. Reduce heat to low, cover casserole and cook chicken, turning occasionally, until almost tender, 45 minutes to an hour.

Put onions, bacon, mushrooms and potatoes back in, cover, and continue cooking until the garnish is hot and the chicken completely cooked, about 10 minutes more. Transfer the bird to a serving platter, arranging the garnish around it and pouring over any pan juices. Sprinkle over the parsley and serve, carving at the table. Serves 4

Per serving: 916 calories, 51grams protein, 62 g fat (20 g saturated), 36 g carbohydrate, 378 milligrams sodium, 208 mg cholesterol, 5 g dietary fiber.

French Food at Home by Laura Calder (William Morrow)