TUSCAN GRILLED CHICKEN

2 cloves garlic

1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon fennel seed

1/4 cup olive oil

1 (4- to 4 1/2-pound) chicken

Oil for brushing

With a mortar and pestle or a blender, grind the garlic, rosemary, salt and fennel seed. Continue grinding while adding the olive oil to make a coarse paste.

Using poultry shears or a chef’s knife, cut the chicken alongside the backbone, all the way from neck to stern. Repeat on the other side of the backbone, removing it from the carcass.

Place the chicken skin-side up on the cutting board, opened out like a book. Firmly press down on the center of the breast to crack the sternum and flatten the chicken. Place the chicken in a resealable plastic bag and spoon in the herb mixture. Press out the air, seal tightly and massage to distribute the marinade evenly. Refrigerate overnight or leave at room temperature for 1 hour.

Wrap a 1-foot-square paving stone or brick in aluminum foil. Start the coals in a chimney and when they are lightly coated with gray ash, about 20 minutes, empty them into the grill, arranging them in a gentle slope against one side. Replace the grill rack and brush it with oil.

Place the chicken skin-side down on the grill rack, away from the direct heat but with the drumsticks pointing toward the fire. Brush one side of the foil-covered brick with oil and place it on top of the chicken.

Grill until the skin is well-browned, about 20 minutes. Remove the brick and turn the chicken over, placing it skin-side up directly over the fire. Cook until the juices at the hip and knee joints run clear when pierced with a knife, about 5 minutes. Remove to a carving board and let rest 5 minutes to distribute the juices evenly before carving. Serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.