For the fluffiest mashed potatoes, use a ricer and crème fraiche instead of milk.

The New York Times / Kate Sears

Isn’t this the year to master the fluffiest, best-ever mashed potatoes?

I admired this recipe when I first spied it in How to Cook a Turkey from the editors and contributors of Fine Cooking magazine. But when I saw it again this year among their recipes on the Web, I thought I’d share.

It comes with two basic truths and one tangy addition.

1. Russets are the best choice for mashed potatoes because of their high starch content.

2. Using a ricer creates the most luxurious, airy texture.

This recipe adds crème fraiche, a thickened cream with a nutty flavor and velvety texture, instead of milk. It’s available in most grocery stores but check among the specialty cheeses to find it. If you can’t find it, substitute equal parts sour cream and heavy cream. Or make your own. The recipe is here, too (See Page E9), as is a story about this French cream.

But back to spuds. Here are some other tips from Fine Cooking for making mashed potatoes, a lost art among some of us.

•Start the potatoes in cold water and bring them to a simmer. This allows them to cook evenly.

•Simmer them gently. If they boil violently, they’ll fall apart.

•Test for doneness with a metal skewer.

•Drain thoroughly, shaking to rid the potatoes of excess water. Return them to the pot over low heat and stir to dry them fully.

•If you don’t use a ricer, you can use a potato masher or food mill.

•Never uses a food processor as that will overwork them and produce a gluey texture.

•You can make these potatoes ahead of time and gently reheat them over low heat, either in a double boiler or very carefully in a microwave. You may need to stir in a little more liquid to loosen the consistency.

gciampa@projo.com