Robert Healey takes a break at his cheese shop at the corner of Water and State streets in Warren.

The Providence Journal / Sandor Bodo

WARREN

In his new cheese and wine cafe, with a net keeping his tousled beard in check, Robert Healey is in a heaven of curds and whey.

“I never thought I’d be doing this,” he says as he crafts a cheese plate with all the condiments, accouterments and tastes that will make it a party for a diner’s palate.

The Cheese Plate at 54 State St. is a quiet haven where one man will take the order, make up the cheese plate and deliver it with an explanation of everything it offers. And he’ll serve you a wine from his nice list, maybe even one bearing his mug. He’ll even point out those board games in the corner if he thinks someone is getting bored.

You don’t visit the Cheese Plate to be rushed but to savor every bite.

A variety of cheeses are themed by source (cow, goat or sheep), region (American, French, Italian or the all-encompassing European) or texture (soft or hard). For $13, these selections, chosen with whimsy by Healey, will be paired with complementing dried fruits, nuts, olives, breads and spreads. An Italian dried meat plate offers carnivores something to dig their teeth into with choices that might include prosciutto, speck or soppressata sausage. Little slices of bread freshly sliced are offered for both cheese and meat plates.

The plates will never be mistaken for the stark selections sold at many upscale restaurants, which offer far less at a higher cost. One plate easily satisfies two people. With only a handful of tables, and tender attention to each guest, the Cheese Plate will not be a huge moneymaking endeavor. But Healey will tell you he is in it for the passion and the cheese (and the wine, too), not the profit.

“I’m doing this for fun,” he said.

A dessert plate with some amazing cheese and chocolate accompanies each cheese plate.

Back when Healey was in the wine distribution business, cheese was always an integral part of every tasting event. He remembers a cheese wagon at a bistro in Paris. Ultimately he found the lure of the cheese so strong, he made a plan.

It wasn’t his first or even his second plan. He regularly ran for statewide office as a member of the Cool Moose Party. After he sold his successful wine business, Global Horizons, to MS Walker, he introduced his own wine, Cool Moose Red, a California blend. He bought land in South America. Through it all he hasn’t abandoned law and still practices, putting aside Monday for its pursuits.

He also publishes The Rhode Island Diogenes, a weekly online newsletter for satirical political commentary.

Back to the food, Healey opened the doors on Jan. 5 and feels that it has been a destination spot thus far. Come the warmer weather, foot traffic along Water Street (the shop is at the corner of Water and State) should bring in a different crowd.

His favored pairing these days is an Indian Chili Curry served with an Irish Blue Cheese from Tipperary. But a guest can order the same cheese plate every day from Tuesday through Sunday and it will come with different cheeses. He doesn’t take requests. It far more fun to offer up a surprising selection based on what he has fresh and the mood expressed by his guests.

“Because this is all an experiment and all fun, we try different things,” he said.

Healey also offers a party in a box, and these are becoming big sellers on a Saturday, when a couple might not have a babysitter but want to enjoy a night of wine and cheese. He sends them home with a mini-baguette to share, too.

One final warning: “If you are in a hurry, this is not the place to come,” he said.

So to conclude: Robert Healey is:

A) A lawyer.

B) A cult political figure.

C) A businessman in the liquor trade.

D) A publisher.

E) A cheesemonger.

But right now his favorite role seems to be the last.

Details: The Cheese Plate, 54 State St., Warren, (401) 245-3932. Serving Tuesday and Wednesday 2-8 p.m.; Thursday 2-9 p.m.; Friday 2-10 p.m.; Saturday noon to 10 p.m.; and Sunday noon to 7 p.m. Wine and beer license.

gciampa@projo.com