The providence Journal / Sandor Bodo

Two weeks ago, Dorothy Horowitz wrote:

“We ate at Loie Fuller Sunday night. The food and ambience were wonderful. We all enjoyed our meals, especially the beet, celery root, goat cheese salad. It was tasty and beautiful to look at. I’d love to make it for Passover. I’m sure my company will be impressed.”

In a follow-up E-mail, I asked Dorothy for more details and she added, “It is different, colorful, and will be a new taste sensation for the family.”

You can’t get better than that. Chef Eric Wolf and owner Michael Sears were happy to share the Beet and Celery Salad preparation instructions as well as the pivotal Champagne Dressing recipe, which should taste sweet, tangy and strong. The dressing should be made ahead of time and then refrigerated. If that’s too much trouble, Wolf suggests feeling free to substitute your favorite dressing or any Champagne dressing

The blend of ingredients for this salad makes it lovely for any seasonal occasion.

For those who aren’t familiar with it, celery root is also called celeriac. It is at its peak through April. Select roots that have the smoothest skin.

Details: Loie Fuller, 1455 Westminster St., Providence. (401) 273-4375. Open Wednesday through Monday for dinner at 5 p.m. No reservations.

What is Chef’s Secret?

We invite readers who would like to know the recipe for a favorite restaurant dish to write or e-mail. Give us your name and daytime phone and tell us what makes the dish so special to you. We’ll ask the chef to share. E-mail gciampa@projo.com, fax (401) 277-8175 or write to Gail Ciampa, Providence Journal, 75 Fountain St., Providence, RI 02902.

CHAMPAGNE DRESSING

2 shallots

1 ounce Champagne vinegar

1/2 cup white wine

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

4 tablespoons honey

2 cups vegetable oil, divided use

Peel and slice shallots and sauté in a pan with 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil until dark brown and caramelized.

Add the Champagne vinegar, wine, mustard and honey and blend together before simmering for five minutes.

Set aside to cool in refrigerator for 20 minutes.

Once cool, transfer into blender and blend until contents are pureed. Adjust blender to slow setting and slowly drizzle vegetable oil into dressing base. It is very important to add the oil slowly to the dressing base otherwise separation may occur.

At this point the dressing should start to attain volume. Once the dressing coats the back of a spoon it is done.

Refrigerate until making the salad.

BEET AND CELERY ROOT SALAD

2 large beets

2 large celery roots (see note)

4 ounces goat cheese

Champagne Dressing (see recipe)

Salt and pepper

Vegetable oil

Frisee or beet greens, to garnish

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Peel beets and celery root and cut into small cubes approximately 1/4 inch. Toss beets and celery root separately in two mixing bowls with oil, salt and pepper and lay out on two baking trays. Roast for about 15 minutes until tender but not soft. Set aside to cool until they are warm.

Once warm, combine beets, celery root, and goat cheese in a large mixing bowl. Add about 8 tablespoons of Champagne Dressing, more or less depending on taste.

To serve you’ll need a mold that is four inches wide or use a plastic or metal container with the bottom removed. Place the mold on a salad plate and lightly pack salad into mold.

Garnish with frisee or beet greens.

Editor’s note: To prepare celery root, cut of the top and a thin slice of the base. Pare away the tough outer skin with a knife before cutting into cubes. Drop into cold water the bare root doesn’t oxidize before cooking.

Serves 4.