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Texture is tops with Siena’s portobello

02:20 PM EST on Wednesday, November 5, 2008

By Gail Ciampa

Journal Food Editor

Funghi Portobello ai Ferri is a favorite at Siena restaurant on Atwells Avenue in Providence and at Siena Cucina-Enoteca in East Greenwich.

The Providence Journal / Sandor Bodo

Peter Kanarian wrote:

“It was our first time at Siena, but it will not be our last. We recently had an outstanding dinner — appetizer through dessert. We were especially found of the Funghi Portobello ai Ferri, a large portobello mushroom cap baked with goat cheese, caramelized onions, roasted peppers and crispy pancetta wheels. Wow, great flavor and taste and an excellent blend of ying and yang. I am interested in the cooking process that keeps that portobello texture. It was more than enough for two.”

With Thanksgiving around the corner, I was most interested in this recipe. My family loves a nice portobello mushroom and how wonderful to serve them a new recipe this year. (Though they are fans of the prosciutto and Ritz Crackers I usually use — but change is good.)

There are two Siena restaurants owned by brothers Anthony and Christopher Tarro. Peter dined at the original Siena at 238 Atwells Ave. on Federal Hill in Providence. But the dish is also offered at the newer Siena Cucina-Enoteca, a kitchen and wine bar at 5600 Post Rd., East Greenwich.

Chef Anthony shared his recipe, explaining that it can be served as an appetizer, hors d’oeuvre or even an entrée.

“Simply increase, or decrease, the size of the mushroom,” he said. “If you want to use the mushroom as an hors d’oeuvre, then you could use a cremini mushroom, which is a smaller, under-developed portobello.”

So what is the ying-yang?

It’s the layers of flavor provided by the acidic roasted red pepper, the sweetness of the onion, the salty and smoky pancetta wheels and the sharpness of the goat cheese, said Tarro. The mushroom cap is grilled, which keeps the texture so admired by Peter.

You’ll need a kitchen thermometer, but you should have that ready for the holidays anyway.

The recipe requires several steps to make all those layers, but all the ingredients are easily found at any well- stocked grocery store. So make a big batch and pass them around.

You can learn more about the restaurant at www.sienacucina.com.

CARAMELIZED ONIONS1

CARAMELIZED ONIONS

2 cups Spanish onions, julienned

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 tablespoons butter

Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste

In a medium-size pan, heat the oil and add the onions. Cook on medium heat until the onions begin to wilt. Increase the heat to high to develop some brown color (3-4 minutes). Reduce the heat to medium and add the butter, salt and pepper. Continue to cook until the onions are soft and golden brown. Set aside.

ROASTED RED PEPPERS

1 cup fire-roasted red peppers, skinless, julienned

1 teaspoon garlic, fresh and minced

1 tablespoon basil, chopped

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste

Drain all liquid from the red peppers and then put in a bowl. Mix with the rest of the ingredients. Set aside.

CRISPY PANCETTA WHEELS

8 slices pancetta, 1/8-inch thick

Preheat an oven to 375 degrees. Place the pancetta slices onto a baking pan and cook for 8-10 minutes or until slightly crispy. Do not overcook. Drain off any excess fat and reserve.

FUNGHI PORTOBELLO AI FERRI (GRILLED PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS)

8 fresh portobello mushrooms, 3 inches wide

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for finishing

Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste

Caramelized Onions (see recipe)

Roasted Red Peppers (see recipe)

5-6 ounces goat cheese

Crispy Pancetta Wheels (see recipe)

Wash and stem the mushrooms.

Preheat an outdoor grill to 400 degrees. Drizzle the mushroom caps with the oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill on both sides until tender, but not dry. Set aside.

Make the onions, red peppers and pancetta wheels (see accompanying recipes at right).

To assemble: On a baking pan, spread a little olive oil to evenly coat. Place the mushroom caps on the pan (gill side up).

Spread the caramelized onions over each cap. Spread the roasted red peppers over the onions. Crumble the goat cheese and place on top of the peppers. Place one Crispy Pancetta Wheel on top of each mushroom.

Bake at 375 degrees for approximately 8 to 10 minutes or until they reach an internal temperature of 140 degrees.

Place on a warm serving dish and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil.

Yields 4 portions.

gciampa@projo.com

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