Chef's Secret
A soup for the season from North End Cafe
01:00 AM EST on Wednesday, November 12, 2008

A mug of Roasted Butternut Squash Bisque is topped with a Hazelnut Goat Cheese Crouton.
Last summer, a reader wrote about a wonderful bisque special coming out of the kitchen at the new North End Café, nicknamed NEC since bought by chef Paul Jalaf. I never got to chef for that recipe but was reminded of the bisque when I read about a Harvest Wine dinner that Jalaf and Douglas Wine and Spirits were hosting. (It was last night.)
On the menu was a Roasted Butternut Squash Bisque with Hazelnut Goat Cheese Crouton for the first course. How perfect a dish for Thanksgiving! It comes courtesy of Jalaf, who serves as executive chef, and chef de cuisine Chris Maccarone.
This bisque is best served the next day, which allows the flavors to blend, Jalaf said. So you can cook it ahead of time and just heat it for the holiday table. He also said this is a basic bisque recipe to which home cooks can add or omit ingredients to make it any way they like.
As for the crouton, if you are serving 24 cups of soup, start with two loaves of bread or a long French bread.
The restaurant is at 1058 Charles St., North Providence.
ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH BISQUE WITH HAZELNUT GOAT CHEESE CROUTON1
ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH BISQUE WITH HAZELNUT GOAT CHEESE CROUTON
2 large butternut squash, peeled seeded and diced
4 tablespoons olive oil or canola oil (divided use)
2 tablespoons maple syrup
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 larger white onion, peeled and diced
1/2 head celery, washed and diced
2 large carrots, washed, peeled and diced
2 tablespoons flour
6 quarts of stock (chicken or vegetable)
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon allspice
Salt and pepper to taste
1 pint heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon fresh grated nutmeg
Hazelnut Goat Cheese Crouton (see recipe)
Toss squash with 2 tablespoons of oil, maple syrup and brown sugar. Roast in 425 degree oven for 15 minutes to soften and caramelize the squash. Set aside.
Sauté onion, carrots and celery in 2 tablespoons of oil on medium heat until they are soft but not browned. When vegetables are soft, dust them with the flour and keep stirring. This will form a base for the bisque.
Slowly add stock while stirring the vegetables and bring up to simmer. Then add squash, and any juice or liquid in that pan, and bring back to simmer for 15-20 minutes. Add allspice, cinnamon, salt and pepper let simmer for 5-10 more minutes. Taste the bisque and adjust spice as needed.
Use an immersion (hand) blender or puree in regular blender in small batches to smooth consistency.
When the bisque is completely pureed, put it all back in the pot and bring back to a simmer. Hand whip in the heavy cream and bring back to simmer again. Bisque should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. If it’s too thick, add more stock. If it’s too thin, let it simmer on low to reduce more and thicken up.
Finish bisque with the fresh grated nutmeg and more salt and pepper to taste.
Serve with Hazelnut Goat Cheese Crouton.
Yields 1 1/2 gallons or 24 cups of bisque.
HAZELNUT GOAT CHEESE CROUTONS1
HAZELNUT GOAT CHEESE CROUTONS
Day old loaf of bread
Olive oil
Crumbled goat cheese
Chopped toasted hazelnuts (or any other nuts you like)
Scallions or chives, minced for garnish
Slice bread and brush slices with olive oil. Grill.
Spread a bit of goat cheese on each slice. Sprinkle nuts on cheese.
Garnish with scallion or chives
More Chef's Secrets
Recipe: Le Central Butternut and Green Apple Flan
Chef’s secret: Flan side dish from Le Central is worthy of the holiday table
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