Chef's Secret
Sweet potato gnocchi a seasonal indulgence
01:00 AM EST on Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Gnocchi Casalinga is the house gnocchi at the Blue Grotto on Federal Hill.
The Providence Journal / Sandor Bodo
Patrick Turner wrote:
“As a frequent diner at the Blue Grotto on Atwells Avenue, I have often ordered the sweet potato gnocchi and find it to be a consistently excellent dish. I visit Federal Hill often and enjoy the neighborhood ambience and find myself regularly returning to the Blue Grotto after shopping to once again indulge in that sweet potato gnocchi. I know that you have regularly interviewed restaurants and are able to pry away some of their special recipes. I don’t know that I could ever perfect this version, but if you were able to persuade them to share the recipe I would love to give it a try!”
Though it has been around since the 1980s, the Blue Grotto Restaurant is sort of a new kid on the Federal Hill block as Mike Danahy bought it two years ago and is slowly making it over to suit his vision. There are new windows that open to the street for summer dining. There’s also a new executive chef. He is Robert Hanson and he shared his potato gnocchi and sauce recipe with us.
Danahy and Hanson met when Danahy was general manager of Chardonnay’s in Seekonk and Hanson was its sous chef. Now at 210 Atwells Ave. in Providence, they call this requested dish Gnocchi Casalinga. Danahy said that loosely translated it means “gnocchi of the house.”
“This allows us to change this dish seasonally, while maintaining continuity on the menu,” he said.
This sweet potato version is a wonderful fall and winter dish, he agreed.
“The most difficult part is making the gnocchi themselves. It may take a few times before you get a feel for it.”
Hanson diligently worked out the recipe to cut it down to serve four.
For more information on the restaurant, read Lifebeat Weekend tomorrow for a Dining Out review or visit the restaurant’s Web site at www.bluegrottorestaurant.com.
SWEET POTATO GNOCCHI
6 sweet potatoes (4 1/2 pounds)
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons salt
1 tablespoon white pepper
1 pound ricotta cheese
2 eggs
4-5 cups all purpose flour
Bake sweet potatoes at 450 degrees for 1 hour 15 minutes. Overbake slightly making sure they’re soft inside. Let potatoes cool just enough to be able to handle; they should not cool down completely.
Scrape out the insides of the potatoes with a spoon into a mixing bowl with all of the other ingredients except the flour. Use the dough hook attachment. When the ingredients are incorporated, add the flour, one cup at a time. The dough is finished when it is firm but yielding and slightly sticky. Knead by hand and roll into a ball. Place a damp cloth over the ball and put into the refrigerator for one hour.
Lightly flour your working surface. Cut the ball into six pieces, and roll each into a rope between 1/2-inch and 3/4-inch in diameter. Cut into 1/2-inch pieces flouring them as you go.
Roll each piece on the back side of a fork or a gnocchi board. The gnocchi are now ready to cook or freeze.
About 8 ounces of gnocchi is a good portion.
When cooking the gnocchi, bring water to a boil and cook until they float for 2 minutes.
BLUE GROTTO GNOCCHI SAUCE
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup white wine
2 tablespoons oil
3 tablespoons brown sugar
4 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup thinly sliced fennel
1/4 cup white onion, thinly sliced
1/8 cup roasted red pepper strips
1 tablespoon fresh basil
1 teaspoon minced shallot
1 teaspoon minced garlic
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons grated Romano cheese
Small handful of baby spinach
Heat pan with oil over medium heat. Add fennel, onion and roasted red peppers. Sauté 1 to 2 minutes. Add garlic and shallots cook for 30 seconds Add wine, basil and brown sugar. Reduce by 1/3. Add cream and reduce by 1/3. Add butter and salt and pepper. Cook until butter is melted.
Add cooked gnocchi and toss with baby spinach and grated Romano cheese.
Serves four.
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