THE PROVIDENCE JOURNAL / Sandor Bodo

Joanne Marcoux writes:

“On a recent visit to Narragansett, I had the great pleasure of dining at The Ugly Old Toad. There were three of us and everything we ate was impressive. Grilled Hearts of Romaine in Red Wine Granita, Bone-in Rib Eye Steak, Shrimp Scampi, Mozzarella & Pomodoro Wood Grilled Pizza — all fabulous. And the Sweet Potato Beignets — incredible! I wonder if you could secure the recipe for the beignets for me?

I come from Nantucket, gourmet restaurant haven, and am not easily impressed.”

Beignets (ben-YAY), New Orleans yeast pastries, are deep fried and delectable. The name comes from the French word for fritter.

The Sweet Potato Beignets at The Ugly Old Toad are an appetizer served with a Cucumber-Dill Sauce. No wonder Joanne wanted to recreate them at home.

Owner Michael Mourachian and chef Henry Quackenbush were happy to share the recipe and information about Narragansett’s newest restaurant. It is at 1200 Ocean Drive, which is between Spain and Aunt Carrie’s. Mourachian spent a year working on the concept with the vision of fresh local ingredients.

“The menu changes each night according to what’s fresh in the market,” said Mourachian.

Quackenbush’s menu has influences not just from Southern cooking as with the beignets, but also French, Pan-Asian and classic local fare.

The Ugly Old Toad hosts events on Tuesday and Wednesday nights. On Tuesday at 8 p.m., Mourachian demonstrates how to make special cocktails, discusses wine and food pairings and offers tastings. On Wednesday at 8 p.m., he plays the piano, sings and takes requests, with audience participation encouraged.

Dinner is served nightly starting at 5.

What about that name, you ask? It comes from family history. After his father died, Mourachian and his brothers found a diary hidden in the basement.

“It was written in 1967 and documented his heartfelt, yearlong struggle to win their mother’s love,” Mourachian said. His father, Harry, described his wife as “perfect and beautiful as Mozart,” and worried “All this will wear off and she’ll see me as I am. A toad. An ugly old toad with a lot of stories to keep her amused.”