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Lobster tips from Jasper White

Lobster at Home (Scribners, $30) by Jasper White has a wealth of information on all aspects of lobster.

For instance:

*If you're buying lobsters to travel, smaller lobsters or soft-shell lobsters have a higher mortality rate than larger, hard-shell lobsters. Selects
(1 1/2 to 2 1/2 pounds) are a good bet.

*Ice or non-salt water will kill a lobster. To store a lobster out of the tank, wrap it gently in a damp sheet of newspaper, keeping it moist and
separated from the other lobsters. Store at the coldest part of the refrigerator, on the bottom shelf, toward the back of the refrigerator.

Weak lobsters, especially soft-shell lobsters, sometimes die within 24 hours; strong lobsters will live three to five days out of water.

*A 3.5 ounce portion, about the amount of meat in a 1-pound lobster, has only 98 calories and only 13 milligrams of cholesterol, less than
skinless chicken or turkey breast.

*There's no noticeable difference between the meat of male or female lobsters. The only reason to prefer a female is if you want the coral
(also called roe) for a recipe. The roe is green-black when raw, orange-red when cooked.

*Before serving a boiled lobster, punch a hole in the spot right between the cooked lobster's eyes, using a knife tip. Lean lobster with its head
down so the liquids drain from the carcass. This creates less mess when the lobster is opened.

*White doesn't use a microwave, but for those who do, he gives directions for steaming lobster in the microwave: Spear half a lemon on the
head of the lobster and put the lobster in a 1-gallon plastic zippered freezer bag with a few pieces of rockweed or 1/4 cup water.

Seal, place on a plate and microwave on high for 6 minutes for a one-pound lobster, 7 minutes for 1 1/4 pounds or 8 minutes for 1 3/4 pounds.
You can only do one at a time.

The lobster year

July, August, September: Sweet native soft shells are plentiful and cheap; hard shells are less abundant and prices are higher. Prices on hard
shells begin to drop in September.

October, November, December: The best time of the year for hard shell lobster. Quality is magnificent, prices stay reasonable, rising a bit at
Christmas time.

January, February, March: The worst time of year to buy lobster. Prices jump as lobster fishing slows to a minimum. In March, prices are
highest and quality lowest of the year.

April, May, June: Shells are hard, quality good. Lobster is scarce until mid-April, when the Canadian season opens and prices begin to drop.
May is one of the best months for hardshells; prices are reasonable. June is also good.

Lobster tips from Jasper White Lobster at Home (Scribners, $30) by Jasper White has a wealth of information on all aspects of lobster. For instance: If you're buying lobsters to travel, smaller lobsters or soft-shell lobsters have a higher mortality rate than larger, hard-shell lobsters. Selects (1 1/2 to 2 1/2 pounds) are a good bet. Ice or non-salt water will kill a lobster. To store a lobster out of the tank, wrap it gently in a damp sheet of newspaper, keeping it moist and separated from the other lobsters. Store at the coldest part of the refrigerator, on the bottom shelf, toward the back of the refrigerator. Weak lobsters, especially soft-shell lobsters, sometimes die within 24 hours; strong lobsters will live three to five days out of water. A 3.5 ounce portion, about the amount of meat in a 1-pound lobster, has only 98 calories and only 13 milligrams of cholesterol, less than skinless chicken or turkey breast. There's no noticeable difference between the meat of male or female lobsters. The only reason to prefer a female is if you want the coral (also called roe) for a recipe. The roe is green-black when raw, orange-red when cooked. Before serving a boiled lobster, punch a hole in the spot right between the cooked lobster's eyes, using a knife tip. Lean lobster with its head down so the liquids drain from the carcass. This creates less mess when the lobster is opened. White doesn't use a microwave, but for those who do, he gives directions for steaming lobster in the microwave: Spear half a lemon on the head of the lobster and put the lobster in a 1-gallon plastic zippered freezer bag with a few pieces of rockweed or 1/4 cup water. Seal, place on a plate and microwave on high for 6 minutes for a one-pound lobster, 7 minutes for 1 1/4 pounds or 8 minutes for 1 3/4 pounds. You can only do one at a time. The lobster year July, August, September: Sweet native soft shells are plentiful and cheap; hard shells are less abundant and prices are higher. Prices on hard shells begin to drop in September. October, November, December: The best time of the year for hard shell lobster. Quality is magnificent, prices stay reasonable, rising a bit at Christmas time. January, February, March: The worst time of year to buy lobster. Prices jump as lobster fishing slows to a minimum. In March, prices are highest and quality lowest of the year. April, May, June: Shells are hard, quality good. Lobster is scarce until mid-April, when the Canadian season opens and prices begin to drop. May is one of the best months for hardshells; prices are reasonable. June is also good.