CRISP-SKINNED VIETNAMESE ROAST DUCK

1 duck, about 5 pounds
1/4 cup scallion oil (recipe follows)
1 tablespoon roasted peanuts
Fried shallots (directions below)
Nuoc cham (recipe follows)
1 scallion, cut into 2-inch lengths
4 slices fresh ginger root
2 sprigs cilantro
Basting sauce (recipe follows)
Extra-thin rice vermicelli
Raw vegetables (see below)

Three days in advance, remove neck and giblets from duck. Discard any excess fat. Cut off duck wing tips. Wash duck and dry with paper towels. Place duck breast side up directly on a refrigerator rack, allowing space for air to circulate freely. Place a pan on shelf below to catch drippings. Refrigerate for 3 days, turning duck once a day.

SHALLOTS: Heat 1/2 cup vegetable oil until hot, not smoking. Add 1/2 cup thinly sliced shallots and fry until crispy and golden brown, about 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Can be stored in a tightly covered jar for up to 1 month.

SCALLION OIL: Heat 1/4 cup peanut oil in a small saucepan until hot but not smoking. Remove from heat and add 2 finely sliced scallions. Steep at room temperature until cooled.
Store in refrigerator.

NUOC CHAM: Combine 2 small cloves garlic, crushed, with 1 small fresh red chile pepper, seeded and minced, and 2 tablespoons sugar in a mortar. Pound to a fine paste. Add 2 tablespoons lime or lemon juice, 1/4 cup rice vinegar, 1/4 cup noc man (Vietnamese fish sauce, sold at Asian markets) and 1/4 cup water. If you don't have a mortar, combine all ingredients in a blender or food processor.

VEGETABLES: Arrange a platter of raw vegetables and herbs to be served with duck. Possibilities: Boston or other soft lettuce, separated into leaves, scallions cut into 2-inch lengths, fresh cilantro, mint or basil leaves, sliced cucumber, fresh bean sprouts.

On day of dinner, preheat oven to 450 degrees. Adjust oven racks to lowest and second lowest positions. Stuff duck cavity with the scallion, ginger and cilantro.

BASTING SAUCE: In small saucepan combine 2 large cloves minced garlic, 1 tablespoon grated or minced fresh ginger, 1/4 teaspoon crushed black peppercorns, 1/2 teaspoon crushed coriander seeds, 1 teaspoon five-spice powder, 1/8 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, 2 star anise (or 1/2 teaspoon anise seed), 2 tablespoons each light soy sauce and honey, 1 tablespoon light corn syrup, 1/4 cup chicken broth and 2 teaspoons tomato paste.
Simmer gently for 10 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve.

Put a large roasting pan half-filled with hot water on lowest oven rack to catch drippings. Prick skin on back and sides of duck with tip of a knife or fork (do not pierce breast).

Place the duck, breast side up, directly on the oven rack above the pan. Roast for 30 minutes.

Turn duck over and roast for 15 minutes more. Reduce oven temperature to 300 degrees. Prick duck skin again and roast 45 minutes longer, turning and basting the duck with sauce every 10 minutes. The duck skin should be shiny, a dark caramel color and very crispy.

Transfer duck to a cutting board and let stand for 10 minutes.

Dip the rice vermicelli into hot water. Let stand 5 minutes, covered (sprinkle more hot water over noodles if they look dry). Transfer noodles to a serving platter and sprinkle with scallion oil, ground roasted peanuts and fried shallots.

To carve duck: Place breast side up and cut in half lengthwise. Cut off wings and legs. Cut off backbone on each half of bird. Cut backbone into bite-size pieces and reassemble on serving platter. Cut each wing and leg into 2 or 3 pieces and arrange on each side of backbone. Chop remaining bird into bite-size pieces. Reassemble each half to its original shape.

Diner should roll a piece of roast duck in a lettuce leaf along with a little cilantro or fresh mint, selected vegetables and some noodles. Then dip the whole package into Nuoc Cham and eat out of hand. Serves 3 to 4.

For Asian ingredients: Markets such as East Sea in East Providence or Persimmon in Providence.

- From Foods of Vietnam by Nicole Routhier (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, $35.)