1998 TERRIFIC MASHED POTATOES

You can peel the potatoes the day before and refrigerate in a bowl of water. I use three-fourths stick of butter, but restaurants that get raves for their mashed potatoes use larger amounts. Lutece in New York uses four sticks. Al Forno in Providence uses two sticks in the recipe by Johanne Killeen and George Germon in their cookbook, Simpatico.

4 pounds potatoes
1/2 cup whole milk
1/2 to 4 sticks butter
Salt and pepper to taste

Use a russet potato, such as the Idaho potato. Peel and cut into chunks. Simmer in salted water to cover, until tender, 15 to 25 minutes. Drain. Warm the milk with the butter.

When cool enough to handle, put through a potato ricer, or mash with warm milk and the butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Keep warm in pan set over a pan of hot water; cover loosely with foil. Makes 8 to 10 servings.