1997 WARM CARAMEL SAUCE

This sauce is a sleek, glossy bronze color, intense with real caramel flavor. Keep it on hand, warm briefly and serve over ice cream, a brownie or broiled pears. The recipe can be doubled or tripled.

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons cold water
2 cups heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 teaspoons cold unsalted butter

Combine sugar and water in a small, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Cook to dissolve the sugar, stirring and brushing down any crystals on the sides of the pan with a brush dipped in hot water. Raise the heat and bring the syrup to a boil. Boil, without stirring, until the mixture caramelizes to a medium-dark amber color, 5 to 10 minutes. The timing can vary.

Remove pan from heat and gradually add the cream. Take care; the mixture will bubble up violently.

Return sauce to medium heat and boil gently until thickened and smooth, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in vanilla; swirl in the butter.

Rewarm the sauce before serving, either by spooning a little into a small skillet, or by heating the entire jar, uncovered, in a microwave oven.

Keeps refrigerated for 3 weeks or more. Makes about 1 2/3 cups.

RUSTY NAIL CARAMEL SAUCE: Stir in 2 tablespoons Scotch, or more to taste, and 2 tablespoons Drambuie or Grand Marnier just before removing the sauce from the heat and adding vanilla. This sauce can also be spiked with either bourbon or cognac.