Outdoors: Hiking/Camping

LINCOLN -- Russ Cohen stepped to the side of the parking lot near the Blackstone River Bike Path, his shadow lingering over a few blue chicories. Breaking the blossoms off the stems, he popped a couple of the azure flowers into his mouth and starting munching. A few petals escaped his mouth and fell off his scruffy, brown beard.

"The roots can be used as a coffee supplement and it doesn't have caffeine," said Cohen, who bills himself as an expert forager.

Journal photo / Glenn Osmundson Russ Cohen, an edible plant expert, bites into a chicory flower that he found along the Blackstone River Bike Path in Cumberland.

Edible greenery is Cohen's forte and he took some time recently to point out a few of the region's eatable plants.

There are about 180 species of edible plants in New England, he said. Cohen found 57 palatable wild plant species in the area around the bike path. Many of the plants, such as the day lily, can be found in people's backyards.

Cohen offered an edible plant tour during the recent Blackstone ZAP celebration. "At least a dozen times people said, 'Oh, I have that on my property,' " Cohen recalled. "Most of the stuff is really common and grows all over Rhode Island."

Cohen, who lives in Arlington, Mass., became interested in wild flora after taking an edible botany course at Weston, Mass., High School. He went on to earn a master's degree in natural resources from Ohio State University and has been employed with the Riverways Program of the Massachusetts Department of Fisheries, Wildlife and Environmental Law Enforcement since 1988, serving as its Rivers Advocate since 1992.

The Blackstone River Bike Path, a trail that runs along the Blackstone River and is managed by the state Department of Environmental Management, "is a great place to see and learn about the plants that are edible," Cohen said.

DEM regulations prohibit the removal of any shrub or vegetation from the bike path, said DEM spokeswoman Gail Mastrati. Though the regulation is rarely enforced, people could be fined $100 for plucking plants along the bike trail that borders Lincoln and Cumberland.

Though Cohen encourages people to experiment with edible growth, he wants enthusiasts to be conscious about conservation and the aesthetic value of vegetation. He suggests not picking flowers or buds from areas where people often go to enjoy the flora. In addition, the conservationist advises the public to make sure there is more than one spot to gather from if the patch of plants is small.

Journal photo / Glenn Osmundson The edible fruits of the mulberry tree are among many meals you'll find in the wilds of Blackstone Valley.

"Usually, they are thrilled to have foragers come because there is a symbiotic relationship. It's potentially this great partnership. They want to get rid of weeds," said Cohen, who relishes the invasive shrubs.

Additionally, because organic farms don't use pesticides or chemicals like other farms, the weeds, berries, and flowers around the farm are chemical-free and can taste better.

Many people, Cohen said, worry they will eat the wrong plants and get sick. But, he said, the chances of being poisoned are very low in New England.

"Poisonous plants taste horrible and are naturally repellent," Cohen said.

Here are a few of the edible plants common in the Blackstone Valley:

Chicory (Cichorium intybus) -- This flower, a relative of the dandelion, was found next to the parking lot going toward the bike path. The blue blossoms can be picked and eaten right off the plant. The roots can be roasted, ground and used as a coffee substitute.

Journal photo / Glenn Osmundson Cohen holds up the root of the sweet cicely, which is edible. The taste resembles licorice or anise.

A good way to experiment with this plant is to pull the shrub up, dust the dirt off the root, slice a piece of the root and take a bite. The taste, said Cohen, resembles licorice or anise. The whole plant has the same flavor but the roots and the seeds have the most pronounced taste. A member of the parsley family, the plant grows two to three feet high. The roots or the seeds can be used to make hard candy or put into ice cream to add a licorice flavor.

Jewelweed (impatiens spp.) -- This plant is an antidote to poison ivy and is found all along the bike path. The whole plant should be crushed and then rubbed on the body to help alleviate itching or irritation caused by poison ivy which is also plentiful along the route, Cohen said. The plant has oval leaves and small green seeds called Touch-Me-Nots that "pop" like fleas off a dog when rubbed. Because the plant is invasive it is very common in the wild. The seeds have a walnut-like flavor and when the skin is lightly rubbed off it discloses a bright turquoise color.

Yellow wood sorrel (oxalis spp.) -- The native North American plant, Cohen pointed out, has a tart taste and can be added to salads or soups as a lemon substitute. The leaves, stem, and flowers can all be picked and eaten on the spot. Often times, the three heart-shaped leaflets are confused with clovers.

Ground cherry (physalis spp.) -- Like sweet cicely, this plant is uncommon in the Blackstone Valley, according to Cohen. He found two ground cherry plants growing along the bike path. The plants on the path were small and bear small wild tomatoes. The plants are cousins of Chinese lantern plants.

Day lily (hemerocallis spp.) -- These flowers are standard ingredients in Chinese dishes such as moo shi and hot and sour soup, Cohen said. The day lily's beautiful mango-colored pedals have a subtle taste. The buds, when they are just about to blossom, can taste like green beans when sauteed in butter, Cohen said. Even the wilted day lily can be used in cooking. It is usually placed in soup to add flavor or to thicken it.

Some of the other plants Cohen discovered on the path include riverside grapes, wild lettuce, yucca, black raspberries, milkweed, elderberries and Japanese knotwood.

The self-taught botanist often gathers many of the plants and uses the wild ingredients for salads, desserts and soups. He even has a yearly "harvest party" for friends where he and his wife make several dishes made with wild ingredients.

"It's not meant to replace eating regular food," Cohen said. "It just adds spice to your life, literally and figuratively."

You can find several of Cohen's recipes online at http://users.rcn.com/eatwild/bio.htm.