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Subterranean Homepage News
4.11.2001 00:23
Easter feasts Italian style
By DONNA LEE
Journal Food Editor
For holidays such as Easter, there's pleasure -- particularly in Italian families -- in baking a ricotta pie just like Nana's, or a roast fragrant with garlic and rosemary, like Mother served.
Beloved recipes, however, didn't always get written down.
Jean Restivo of North Providence, a great advocate of family togetherness and good cooking, set out to remedy that. She collected Italian recipes and, with a cookbook committee at the Salvatore Mancini Lodge, published Tutto Bene three years ago.
It quickly sold out. Reprintings and a second book, Molto Bene , followed. Demand was so great -- and there were still so many good recipes for Italian home cooking -- that the committee has now printed a third book, Mangia Bene Figli Mia (Eat Good, My Child).
This warm, folksy cookbook offers hundreds of Italian-American recipes, plus paragraphs on Italian food traditions, memories of immigrants, bits of poetry and philosophy on family. There's a section for children, too.
This newest book offers recipes such as homemade mozzarella, cheese-filled fried rice balls, lemon ice, Italian-style lobster, clams zuppa, calzones, almond-crusted Tuscan flat bread, rosemary bread, many pasta dishes, braciola, desserts, Italian cookies and the often mispronounced bruschetta (they point out it's broo-sket-ah).
For today's photographs, cookbook editor Restivo and her committee -- co-chair Maire Gianfrancesco, Jean's sister-in-law Carol Restivo, Gilda Colannino, Alice Altruda and Rose Mesolella -- prepared dishes they enjoy for Easter.
"For some reason, Italians always seem to connect love with food," says Jean Restivo. "What a feeling it was to walk into my mother or grandmother's house and catch the wonderful aromas of delicious food. It felt so warm and welcoming."
She often cooks with her grandchildren.
"You see a lot of cooks on TV, but do you ever see anyone cooking with children?" asks Restivo. "That's what's important, spending time with children and teaching them. Years from now, the mess is forgotten, but you'll have wonderful memories."
One of Restivo's six children, artist Jean Monti, did the paintings for the cookbook covers. "We all cooked with her when we were growing up," said Monti. "It was a form of creativity. I try to cook with fresh ingredients, as she always did."
All three books edited by Restivo were published to raise money, $40,000 so far, for children's charities. Among the beneficiaries have been Impossible Dream, Camp Hope, Ronald McDonald House and abused children. St. Vincent De Paul will also benefit.
Mangia Bene, a 274-page Italian cookbook, costs $19 including postage. To order, write check to Mancini Lodge and mail to Alice Altruda, 23 Whipple Court, North Providence 02911, Marie Gianfrancisco, 39 Jacksonia Drive, North Providence 02911 or Gilda Colaninno, 17 Nipmuck Trail, North Providence 02904.
Their first book, Tutto Bene , is the same price. The second book is sold out.
Here are Easter suggestions drawn from the cookbooks.
For Easter, Restivo's family usually has ham and a veal roast, preceded by a baked pasta such as manicotti. Sometimes they'll have pork roast. Her roast, accented with rosemary, dried apricots and a touch of honey, was fork-tender and succulent.
STOVE-TOP PORK ROAST
11/2 to 2-pound boneless pork roast (or desired size)
3 cloves garlic, smashed
1 medium onion, peeled, quartered
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup white wine
2 carrots
2 medium-size potatoes
2 to 3 tablespoons honey
6 dried apricots, cut into pieces
1 teaspoon mustard
Salt and pepper to taste
Rosemary, optional
Put roast in a small stockpot. Add garlic, onion, some pepper and the olive oil. Saute on high heat for about 5 minutes, until all sides of the roast are golden brown.
Add any kind of white wine, lower heat to simmer. Add salt to taste. Cover and simmer about 11/2 to 2 hours, until roast is tender. A 5-pound roast might take 21/2 to 3 hours.
Remove from pan; place on a platter. Slice and cover with plastic wrap to keep juices in. Set aside.
While roast is cooking, peel carrots and potatoes. Cut in quarters and place on a flat dinner plate. Cover with plastic wrap and microwave for about 6 minutes, or until half cooked. Add the vegetables in their juices to pot after roast is removed. Also add honey, apricots, mustard and salt and pepper to taste. Cook for about a half hour or until vegetables are done. Place vegetables around sides of sliced pork and pour juices from pan over all.
If desired, sprinkle with rosemary.
-- Jean Restivo
In Italy, lamb is traditional at Easter.
ROAST LAMB WITH ROSEMARY AND ROASTED POTATOES
1/2 leg of lamb
2 cloves garlic, peeled, cut lengthwise into thin slivers
7 tablespoons olive oil
Leaves from 4 sprigs of fresh rosemary, finely chopped
About 1 cup chicken broth
11/2 pounds potatoes, cut in 1-inch cubes
Salt, freshly ground black pepper
Powdered sage or chopped fresh sage
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Using point of a sharp knife, make deep incisions in the lamb, especially near the bone, and insert garlic slivers. Put in roasting pan and rub all over with 3 tablespoons of the oil. Sprinkle with about half the rosemary, patting it on firmly. Season with plenty of salt and pepper and some sage. Roast for 30 minutes, turning once.
Lower oven to 375 degrees. Turn lamb again and add 1/2 cup of the stock. Roast 11/4 to 11/2 hours longer, until lamb is done to taste, turning two or three times more and adding remaining chicken stock in 2 or 3 batches. Baste lamb each time it is turned.
Meanwhile, put potatoes in a separate roast pan and toss with remaining 4 tablespoons oil and remaining rosemary and sage. Season with salt. Roast 45 minutes, turning potatoes several times, until golden and tender.
Transfer lamb to a carving board, tent with foil and set aside in a warm place for 10 minutes to set the juices.
If desired, make a gravy with the pan juices: In a saucepan, mix 2 tablespoons flour with 1/2 cup cold water, stir in the juices and cook until thickened.
This is smoother and more moist than the Italian rice pie popular at Eastertime.
CREAM OF WHEAT RICOTTA PIE
Filling:
1 quart milk
1/2 cup sugar
1 tablespoon shortening
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons uncooked Cream of Wheat
1 pound ricotta
1/4 cup milk
5 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
A few drops each rum and brandy
1 cup sugar
Dash of cinnamon
Crust:
3/4 to 1 cup flour
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons shortening
1 egg
1/4 cup milk
For filling, bring 1 quart milk to boil with 1/2 cup sugar and shortening. Sprinkle in Cream of Wheat, stirring. Cook 5 minutes; cool.
Beat ricotta with 1/4 cup milk. Beat in eggs one at a time. Add vanilla, rum and brandy. Beat in 1 cup sugar. Add to Cream of Wheat mixture. Stir in cinnamon.
Use a 10-inch round pan, 3 or 4 inches deep. Line with pastry, add filling and bake 1 hour at 375 degrees. Cool, then sprinkle with confectioners sugar.
Pastry: Mix flour and sugar in bowl. With fork, cut in shortening, then mix in egg and milk. Mix to form dough, then roll out and line pan.
-- From Lucy Corona and Gilda Colannino, from their 97-year-old mother
"Along with ricotta and rice pies, this omelet is what we have come to associate with Easter Sunday," says Ann-Maria Aiello. "My mother, Marie Gianfranceso, can do this with her eyes closed."
SAUSAGE AND ASPARAGUS FRITTATA
1 pound Italian sausage, casing removed
1 pound fresh asparagus, washed, cut into 1-inch pieces
Salt, pepper, olive oil
Grated Parmesan or romano cheese
8 eggs
Brown sausage in 2 or 3 tablespoons oil, crumbling with a spoon. When partly cooked, add asparagus and cover pan.
Beat eggs and add salt, pepper and cheese as desired.
When asparagus is almost cooked (I like it crispy), add egg mixture and slowly stir until eggs are half cooked, then cover and heat over low heat until set. When set, slide out onto a very large flat plate. Then place the pan upside down over the omelet and flip the pan and plate over so the top of the omelet is now at the bottom of the pan. Return to the heat to cook the top, then slide onto the plate again. Serve warm .
-- Marie Gianfrancesco
The nests are formed from a Rice Krispie-marshmallow mixture.
LAURA AND DAVID MONTI'S BUNNY EGG NESTS
Rice Krispie Treats:
3 tablespoons margarine
1 (10-ounce) package marshmallows
6 cups Rice Krispies
Decorations:
Coconut, shredded
Green food coloring
Jelly beans
Chocolate candy-coated eggs
Peeps (marshmallow birds)
In a glass microwaveable bowl, melt margarine with marshmallows on high for two minutes. Stir together and cook for one more minute. Add Rice Krispies and stir to coat evenly. Let cool for a short time. (It must still be warm enough to mold into nest shapes, but it is too hot right from the microwave.)
Coat hands with non-stick cooking spray. Take a handful of Rice Krispie mix and mold into little rounded bird nests. Shape around a cup if desired. Approximately 3 to 4 inches wide is good.
Place green-colored coconut in the nest. Place a Peep bird to one side of nest . Drop a few colored eggs or jelly beans inside.
JOSEPH AND ROBERT CRAVEN'S BUNNY COOKIES
4 large eggs
1/2 cup oil
1/3 cup milk
1 cup sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons vanilla or almond flavoring
5 cups flour
In a blender, beat together eggs, oil, milk, sugar, baking powder and flavoring.
Pour into large bowl and slowly add flour, stirring with a spoon. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
Have a glass of water on the side. Grease cookie sheets. Roll out 12-inch-long ropes for the bunny's body and head. Shape this on cookie sheet. Make two 2-inch-long ropes for each bunny's ears and three 1-inch ropes for bunny's feet and tail.
Coil up each to make circles and press together on cookie sheet, wetting the edge of the dough to seal the ears, feet and tail to the body. Pinch tips of ears to shape them.
Bake for about 30 to 35 minutes, until done. Cool and frost. Decorate with sprinkles.
This is a chocolate-lover's version of the traditional rice pie.
CHOCOLATE RICE PIE
5 extra large eggs
1 lb. ricotta cheese
1/2 cup sour cream
1 shot orange liqueur
8 oz. cream cheese, softened
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup dry Hershey baking cocoa
1 teaspoon almond flavoring
2 cups rice, cooked and drained (not Minute Rice)
1/2 cup plain bread crumbs for crust
Beat together eggs, ricotta, sour cream, liqueur, cream cheese, sugar, cocoa and almond extact. Blend in cooled, cooked rice.
Grease an 8-inch squre pan with butter. Add bread crumbs. Shake excess crumbs out, then pour in filling. Bake at 350 degrees for 50 to 60 minutes, or until set. Serve with whipped cream and shavings of chocolate.
-- Jean Restivo
These ring-shaped cookies are glazed with frosting and colored sprinkles.
FROSTED EGG BISCUITS
2 cups sugar
3/4 cup milk
1 cup vegetable oil or melted shortening
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 teaspoon lemon extract
6 eggs, beaten
3 tablespoons baking powder
8 cups flour, or as needed
Frosting:
1 box (1 pound) confectioners sugar
1 teaspoon lemon or vanilla extract
Lukewarm water
Colored sprinkles
Mix sugar, milk, oil, vanilla and lemon extract. Mix with beaten eggs. Mix with baking powder and flour to make a soft dough you can handle. Form into ropes and make into a small doughnut-shaped ring, sealing ends together. Or twist the rope before sealing. Or top one ring with a smaller ring, for a two-decker cookie.
Place on lightly greased cookie sheet and bake about 10 minutes at 350 to 375 degrees.
FROSTING: Mix confectioners sugar, flavoring and lukewarm water to make a pourable frosting. Frost cookies while hot . If desired, top with sprinkles.
-- From Rose Mesolella
STUFFED MUSHROOMS
10 large mushrooms
1/4 cup seasoned bread crumbs
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
2 medium eggs
1/2 cup ricotta cheese
2 tablespoons grated cheese
Brush mushrooms clean with damp paper towel. Remove stems; chop and saute lightly in oil, with garlic. Mix crumbs, parsley, eggs, ricotta, grated cheese, stems, salt and pepper to taste. Fill mushrooms, drizzle with some olive oil and bake at 350 degrees until hot, about 10 minutes.
-- Alice Altruda
Easter feasts Italian style
By DONNA LEE
Journal Food Editor
For holidays such as Easter, there's pleasure -- particularly in Italian families -- in baking a ricotta pie just like Nana's, or a roast fragrant with garlic and rosemary, like Mother served.
Beloved recipes, however, didn't always get written down.
Jean Restivo of North Providence, a great advocate of family togetherness and good cooking, set out to remedy that. She collected Italian recipes and, with a cookbook committee at the Salvatore Mancini Lodge, published Tutto Bene three years ago.
It quickly sold out. Reprintings and a second book, Molto Bene , followed. Demand was so great -- and there were still so many good recipes for Italian home cooking -- that the committee has now printed a third book, Mangia Bene Figli Mia (Eat Good, My Child).
This warm, folksy cookbook offers hundreds of Italian-American recipes, plus paragraphs on Italian food traditions, memories of immigrants, bits of poetry and philosophy on family. There's a section for children, too.
This newest book offers recipes such as homemade mozzarella, cheese-filled fried rice balls, lemon ice, Italian-style lobster, clams zuppa, calzones, almond-crusted Tuscan flat bread, rosemary bread, many pasta dishes, braciola, desserts, Italian cookies and the often mispronounced bruschetta (they point out it's broo-sket-ah).
For today's photographs, cookbook editor Restivo and her committee -- co-chair Maire Gianfrancesco, Jean's sister-in-law Carol Restivo, Gilda Colannino, Alice Altruda and Rose Mesolella -- prepared dishes they enjoy for Easter.
"For some reason, Italians always seem to connect love with food," says Jean Restivo. "What a feeling it was to walk into my mother or grandmother's house and catch the wonderful aromas of delicious food. It felt so warm and welcoming."
She often cooks with her grandchildren.
"You see a lot of cooks on TV, but do you ever see anyone cooking with children?" asks Restivo. "That's what's important, spending time with children and teaching them. Years from now, the mess is forgotten, but you'll have wonderful memories."
One of Restivo's six children, artist Jean Monti, did the paintings for the cookbook covers. "We all cooked with her when we were growing up," said Monti. "It was a form of creativity. I try to cook with fresh ingredients, as she always did."
All three books edited by Restivo were published to raise money, $40,000 so far, for children's charities. Among the beneficiaries have been Impossible Dream, Camp Hope, Ronald McDonald House and abused children. St. Vincent De Paul will also benefit.
Mangia Bene, a 274-page Italian cookbook, costs $19 including postage. To order, write check to Mancini Lodge and mail to Alice Altruda, 23 Whipple Court, North Providence 02911, Marie Gianfrancisco, 39 Jacksonia Drive, North Providence 02911 or Gilda Colaninno, 17 Nipmuck Trail, North Providence 02904.
Their first book, Tutto Bene , is the same price. The second book is sold out.
Here are Easter suggestions drawn from the cookbooks.
For Easter, Restivo's family usually has ham and a veal roast, preceded by a baked pasta such as manicotti. Sometimes they'll have pork roast. Her roast, accented with rosemary, dried apricots and a touch of honey, was fork-tender and succulent.
STOVE-TOP PORK ROAST
11/2 to 2-pound boneless pork roast (or desired size)
3 cloves garlic, smashed
1 medium onion, peeled, quartered
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup white wine
2 carrots
2 medium-size potatoes
2 to 3 tablespoons honey
6 dried apricots, cut into pieces
1 teaspoon mustard
Salt and pepper to taste
Rosemary, optional
Put roast in a small stockpot. Add garlic, onion, some pepper and the olive oil. Saute on high heat for about 5 minutes, until all sides of the roast are golden brown.
Add any kind of white wine, lower heat to simmer. Add salt to taste. Cover and simmer about 11/2 to 2 hours, until roast is tender. A 5-pound roast might take 21/2 to 3 hours.
Remove from pan; place on a platter. Slice and cover with plastic wrap to keep juices in. Set aside.
While roast is cooking, peel carrots and potatoes. Cut in quarters and place on a flat dinner plate. Cover with plastic wrap and microwave for about 6 minutes, or until half cooked. Add the vegetables in their juices to pot after roast is removed. Also add honey, apricots, mustard and salt and pepper to taste. Cook for about a half hour or until vegetables are done. Place vegetables around sides of sliced pork and pour juices from pan over all.
If desired, sprinkle with rosemary.
In Italy, lamb is traditional at Easter.
ROAST LAMB WITH ROSEMARY AND ROASTED POTATOES
1/2 leg of lamb
2 cloves garlic, peeled, cut lengthwise into thin slivers
7 tablespoons olive oil
Leaves from 4 sprigs of fresh rosemary, finely chopped
About 1 cup chicken broth
11/2 pounds potatoes, cut in 1-inch cubes
Salt, freshly ground black pepper
Powdered sage or chopped fresh sage
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Using point of a sharp knife, make deep incisions in the lamb, especially near the bone, and insert garlic slivers. Put in roasting pan and rub all over with 3 tablespoons of the oil. Sprinkle with about half the rosemary, patting it on firmly. Season with plenty of salt and pepper and some sage. Roast for 30 minutes, turning once.
Lower oven to 375 degrees. Turn lamb again and add 1/2 cup of the stock. Roast 11/4 to 11/2 hours longer, until lamb is done to taste, turning two or three times more and adding remaining chicken stock in 2 or 3 batches. Baste lamb each time it is turned.
Meanwhile, put potatoes in a separate roast pan and toss with remaining 4 tablespoons oil and remaining rosemary and sage. Season with salt. Roast 45 minutes, turning potatoes several times, until golden and tender.
Transfer lamb to a carving board, tent with foil and set aside in a warm place for 10 minutes to set the juices.
If desired, make a gravy with the pan juices: In a saucepan, mix 2 tablespoons flour with 1/2 cup cold water, stir in the juices and cook until thickened.
This is smoother and more moist than the Italian rice pie popular at Eastertime.
CREAM OF WHEAT RICOTTA PIE
Filling:
1 quart milk
1/2 cup sugar
1 tablespoon shortening
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons uncooked Cream of Wheat
1 pound ricotta
1/4 cup milk
5 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
A few drops each rum and brandy
1 cup sugar
Dash of cinnamon
Crust:
3/4 to 1 cup flour
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons shortening
1 egg
1/4 cup milk
For filling, bring 1 quart milk to boil with 1/2 cup sugar and shortening. Sprinkle in Cream of Wheat, stirring. Cook 5 minutes; cool.
Beat ricotta with 1/4 cup milk. Beat in eggs one at a time. Add vanilla, rum and brandy. Beat in 1 cup sugar. Add to Cream of Wheat mixture. Stir in cinnamon.
Use a 10-inch round pan, 3 or 4 inches deep. Line with pastry, add filling and bake 1 hour at 375 degrees. Cool, then sprinkle with confectioners sugar.
Pastry: Mix flour and sugar in bowl. With fork, cut in shortening, then mix in egg and milk. Mix to form dough, then roll out and line pan.
"Along with ricotta and rice pies, this omelet is what we have come to associate with Easter Sunday," says Ann-Maria Aiello. "My mother, Marie Gianfranceso, can do this with her eyes closed."
SAUSAGE AND ASPARAGUS FRITTATA
1 pound Italian sausage, casing removed
1 pound fresh asparagus, washed, cut into 1-inch pieces
Salt, pepper, olive oil
Grated Parmesan or romano cheese
8 eggs
Brown sausage in 2 or 3 tablespoons oil, crumbling with a spoon. When partly cooked, add asparagus and cover pan.
Beat eggs and add salt, pepper and cheese as desired.
When asparagus is almost cooked (I like it crispy), add egg mixture and slowly stir until eggs are half cooked, then cover and heat over low heat until set. When set, slide out onto a very large flat plate. Then place the pan upside down over the omelet and flip the pan and plate over so the top of the omelet is now at the bottom of the pan. Return to the heat to cook the top, then slide onto the plate again. Serve warm .
The nests are formed from a Rice Krispie-marshmallow mixture.
LAURA AND DAVID MONTI'S BUNNY EGG NESTS
Rice Krispie Treats:
3 tablespoons margarine
1 (10-ounce) package marshmallows
6 cups Rice Krispies
Decorations:
Coconut, shredded
Green food coloring
Jelly beans
Chocolate candy-coated eggs
Peeps (marshmallow birds)
In a glass microwaveable bowl, melt margarine with marshmallows on high for two minutes. Stir together and cook for one more minute. Add Rice Krispies and stir to coat evenly. Let cool for a short time. (It must still be warm enough to mold into nest shapes, but it is too hot right from the microwave.)
Coat hands with non-stick cooking spray. Take a handful of Rice Krispie mix and mold into little rounded bird nests. Shape around a cup if desired. Approximately 3 to 4 inches wide is good.
Place green-colored coconut in the nest. Place a Peep bird to one side of nest . Drop a few colored eggs or jelly beans inside.
JOSEPH AND ROBERT CRAVEN'S BUNNY COOKIES
4 large eggs
1/2 cup oil
1/3 cup milk
1 cup sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons vanilla or almond flavoring
5 cups flour
In a blender, beat together eggs, oil, milk, sugar, baking powder and flavoring.
Pour into large bowl and slowly add flour, stirring with a spoon. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
Have a glass of water on the side. Grease cookie sheets. Roll out 12-inch-long ropes for the bunny's body and head. Shape this on cookie sheet. Make two 2-inch-long ropes for each bunny's ears and three 1-inch ropes for bunny's feet and tail.
Coil up each to make circles and press together on cookie sheet, wetting the edge of the dough to seal the ears, feet and tail to the body. Pinch tips of ears to shape them.
Bake for about 30 to 35 minutes, until done. Cool and frost. Decorate with sprinkles.
This is a chocolate-lover's version of the traditional rice pie.
CHOCOLATE RICE PIE
5 extra large eggs
1 lb. ricotta cheese
1/2 cup sour cream
1 shot orange liqueur
8 oz. cream cheese, softened
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup dry Hershey baking cocoa
1 teaspoon almond flavoring
2 cups rice, cooked and drained (not Minute Rice)
1/2 cup plain bread crumbs for crust
Beat together eggs, ricotta, sour cream, liqueur, cream cheese, sugar, cocoa and almond extact. Blend in cooled, cooked rice.
Grease an 8-inch squre pan with butter. Add bread crumbs. Shake excess crumbs out, then pour in filling. Bake at 350 degrees for 50 to 60 minutes, or until set. Serve with whipped cream and shavings of chocolate.
These ring-shaped cookies are glazed with frosting and colored sprinkles.
FROSTED EGG BISCUITS
2 cups sugar
3/4 cup milk
1 cup vegetable oil or melted shortening
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 teaspoon lemon extract
6 eggs, beaten
3 tablespoons baking powder
8 cups flour, or as needed
Frosting:
1 box (1 pound) confectioners sugar
1 teaspoon lemon or vanilla extract
Lukewarm water
Colored sprinkles
Mix sugar, milk, oil, vanilla and lemon extract. Mix with beaten eggs. Mix with baking powder and flour to make a soft dough you can handle. Form into ropes and make into a small doughnut-shaped ring, sealing ends together. Or twist the rope before sealing. Or top one ring with a smaller ring, for a two-decker cookie.
Place on lightly greased cookie sheet and bake about 10 minutes at 350 to 375 degrees.
FROSTING: Mix confectioners sugar, flavoring and lukewarm water to make a pourable frosting. Frost cookies while hot . If desired, top with sprinkles.
STUFFED MUSHROOMS
10 large mushrooms
1/4 cup seasoned bread crumbs
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
2 medium eggs
1/2 cup ricotta cheese
2 tablespoons grated cheese
Brush mushrooms clean with damp paper towel. Remove stems; chop and saute lightly in oil, with garlic. Mix crumbs, parsley, eggs, ricotta, grated cheese, stems, salt and pepper to taste. Fill mushrooms, drizzle with some olive oil and bake at 350 degrees until hot, about 10 minutes.
