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A touch of British gentility sets sail from Central Falls

11:10 AM EDT on Monday, August 1, 2005

BY JOHN HILL
Journal Staff Writer

CENTRAL FALLS -- It was a sunny afternoon last Sunday, and down by the dock, everything was ready for the 3 p.m. tea cruise. The tea was from Marks & Spencer, the genuine British canal boat was from Cambridgeshire, England. And the river was in . . .

Central Falls?

Rhode Island's urban core might seem a strange place to find someone marketing an American version of the bucolic British canal experience, but for five years, the Blackstone Valley Tourism Council has been running weekend tea excursions and overnight river sojourns from the Central Falls Landing.

The main attraction is the Samuel Slater, a 40-foot-long, 10-foot-wide canal boat built in England. It can hold a party of up to 12, and sleeps 4 overnight.

The council also operates two other tour boats on the river, the Blackstone Explorer and the Spirit of the Blackstone, but they are essentially tour buses on the water. They provide daytime tours for groups, for set periods of time, Robert Billington, president of the Blackstone Valley Tourism Council, said. The reservation-only Samuel Slater -- with its overnight rentals -- is meant to provide a different sort of river experience.

"It's designed to be a presence on the river 24 hours a day," Billington said. "We didn't want to compete with the Explorer, but to complement it."

"You can be on the river at 11 at night, you can be there at 5 a.m. and hear the herons," Billington said. One of his favorite moments on the boat is when it returns to the dock at the Central Falls Landing at night, he said. At that time, the 1915 stone bridge that carries Broad Street across the river is alight with its curving black-iron street lights.

"With those lights lit, it's incredible," Billington said. "People don't believe it."

The tea tours cost $17.50 a person, and last about 90 minutes. They will be offered at 1 and 3 p.m. on Aug. 7 and 21, and on Sept. 4 and 18.

The overnight stays include a clambake dinner -- 1 1/4-pound lobster, mussels, clams, sausage, potatoes and corn on the cob -- and breakfast. Rates run from $129 for a single to $329 a night for a group of four. The boat can be chartered for private meetings or parties.

The vessel is shorter than its British cousins, which are built for the placid waters of the United Kingdom's canal system. The Samuel Slater was designed specifically to handle the currents and wind conditions of the Blackstone River, Billington said.

The bow has no roof, with benches on either side for guests to sit on while the boat plies the river.

Inside, the boat is a cross between a recreational vehicle and a country bed-and-breakfast. It has batteries for electricity, running water, even a bathroom and shower.

Entering from the bow, the door opens on the kitchen area, with a sink and gas stove, a combination TV-VCR and a radio-tape-CD player. A small dining table is flanked by two couches with thick, dark red cushions that let them turn into single beds at night.

The curved ceiling is shiny slats of pine; the walls are mahogany-hued. The windows have dark blue curtains. Small framed pictures -- attached at the top and bottom -- line the walls.

The main corridor runs down the boat's port (left) side. The first door opens to a bathroom with a shower and toilet. The next is to the main bedroom, with a double bed. At the end of the corridor, stairs lead to the open back deck, where the pilot steers the boat and guests can sit on two benches.

Beth Scribner, who sets up the boat for the Tourism Council's tea cruises, said guests can also use two brass footholds to climb up and lie on the boat's roof, on sunny days.

Her job is to ready the boat for the cruises and provide running commentary on the river for the guests who have paid $17.50 per person for the 90-minute cruise 2 1/2 miles up the river and back.

Though much work was put into the boat's interior accommodations, members of a tea-cruise group last week said the other passengers wound up being every bit as much an attraction as the boat.

"I'd clipped an article in the paper about it two years ago," said Kathe Bernard, of Clinton, Conn., said. "It was all yellow and curled up, and I thought, 'You know, I ought to go.'

"The really nice thing was, you get to talk to people," Bernard said. "Anything else -- you'd just be a bunch of strangers on a boat."

Meredy Nelson, of Pawtucket, and Mary Johndrew, of Providence, had begun looking for a canoe trip for Nelson's birthday.

"She'd been going on about the river and how she wanted to ride a canoe, and I found this," Johndrew said.

"I'm so glad we didn't do canoes," Nelson said.

"It would have been death on the river," added Johndrew with a laugh as she leaned back on her bench in the summer breeze.

How to get there

How to get to the Samuel Slater canal boat:

The boat is docked at Central Falls Landing, on the Blackstone River near the Cumberland-Central Falls line.

From the south: Get on Broad Street in Pawtucket (Route 114) and go north to just before the Blackstone River. Turn left onto Madeira Avenue. The parking lot for the landing will be immediately on the right.

From the north: From Route 295 north or south, take Exit 11 (Route 114) and go south. At Dexter Street, turn right (remaining on Route 114).

Dexter Street will end very soon. At the end of the street, go left (away from Cumberland Town Hall). Once across the river, turn right onto Madeira Avenue. The landing's parking lot will be immediately on the right.

Trips on the boat are by reservation only. For information, call the Blackstone Valley Tourism Council at (401) 724-2200 or toll-free at (800) 454-2882.

Events this week

Highlights of events this week along the Blackstone:

TOMORROW 6:30 p.m. Evening Arts in the Park Children's Performance Series. Live performances by local children's entertainers, musicians and storytellers. Slater Memorial Park, Armistice Boulevard, Pawtucket. Performance area is near Daggett House and the tennis courts. Pawtucket Parks & Recreation, (401) 728-0500, ext. 251. WEDNESDAY 1 to 4 p.m. 1 to 4 p.m. Junior Ranger Program. Children ages 11 to 14 learn about local wildlife and history. Blackstone River & Canal Heritage State Park, River Bend Farm Visitor Center, 287 Oak St., Uxbridge, Mass. Call (508) 278-7604 to register.

THURSDAY Noon to 12:50 p.m. Noon to 12:50 p.m. Bag Lunch Riverboat Tour. Cruise on the Blackstone Valley Explorer. Leaves from Central Falls Landing, Broad Street and Madeira Avenue, Central Falls. Minimum 15 passengers. Reservations required; call (401) 724-2200. All seats $7.

9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Project Learning Tree Workshop. FRIDAY 11 a.m. 11 a.m. Children's Summer Entertainment Series. Kaleidoscope Theatre Company presents Three Little Pigs at the Stadium Theatre Performing Arts Centre, Monument Square, Woonsocket. Tickets are $7. Call (401) 762-4545.

1 to 2:30 p.m. Timeline Trekkers. 6 to 8 p.m. Family Night Campfire. 6:30 to 7:45 p.m. Twilight Cruise. 7 p.m. Friday Night at the Movies. SATURDAY 5 p.m. 5 p.m. Concerts on the Canal / Shakespeare in the Park , featuring Othello. Bring a lawn chair or blanket; picnic area with grills available. River Bend Farm Visitor Center, Blackstone River & Canal Heritage State Park, 287 Oak St., Uxbridge, Mass. (508) 278-7604.

8:30 to 10 p.m. Skywatch: It's Out of this World. SUNDAY 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. British Tea Tour. Tea cruise on the Blackstone River aboard a British Canal Boat, leaving from Central Falls Landing, Broad Street at Madeira Avenue, Central Falls. All seats $17.50. Reservations required; contact Blackstone Valley Tourism Council, (401) 724-2200.

1 to 3 p.m. Free Sunday Concert Series. 1 to 4 p.m. Blackstone Valley Explorer Wilderness Tour. 3:30 to 5 p.m. Concerts on the Canal / Shakespeare in the Park, featuring Othello. 5 to 6 p.m. Sunday Concerts on the Common. 6 p.m. Sunday Evening Concert Series 6:30 p.m. Pawtucket Riverfront Concert Series SOURCES: Blackstone Valley Tourism Council's Web site, www.tourblackstone.com; Massachusetts Department of Conservation and Recreation, Division of State Parks and Recreation.

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